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Thanks for the reply Randy. My windshield has the two bumps in it for extra headroom.I finally took my skis off last Friday, and flew off my strip on wheels on Sunday. Some standing water, and mud on the strip, but I didn't hurt the prop, so all is well there. Left on a trip to SC on Monday, dropped my Jabiru engine off in Shelbyville Tn on the way through. Was just sitting outside in the sun with bare feet and thinking it's kind of hot already. Well enjoy your winter while you still have it, I know it's my favorite time to fly! Jim

If you fog the engine and use the extension tube on the spray nozzel, hold on to it.  I didn't like being that close to the spinning prop so fogged mine with the engine not running.  That little red tube shot right into the carb and down into the crankcase.  I could see it but when I touched it with the end of my needle nose pliers it fell down underneath the crankshaft.  Had to remove the cylinder to get it out.

Jim,

Sorry for losing this one.  Been flying so much lately I haven't had a chance to do much on the Forum. 

I raised my skylite by 1" in the front and 2.5" in the rear and I am very glad I did.  I tested it while I was building as soon as I had the seats done and could sit in it with the headset on, then put a 2X across the top and raised it until I had the clearance I needed to sit comfortably without touching.  It was easy to do, just split the butt ribs down the middle of the web and glued in the 1/8" plywood spacers in the web, then fiberglassed each side.  I had to raise the front and rear aluminum standoff support on top of the cross tubes and then bend up the aluminum trim metal to finish the top edges and between the butt ribs and the top of the wings.  Very much worth the effort for flying comfort to me though.

My aluminum T-Deck just has a single post style center support with a single cam lock

I have one. It has camlocs across the bottom and two on the center post. It has a piece hard plastic as the upper bearing on the flaperon and then down below the flaperon it has 2 Phillips screws. On the top it tucks in under the skylight.

http://puttinguptheflag.com/

Hello, anyone there

Hold it!!!!

Be sure it is not a ground switching solenoid. My hybrid building buddy was having solenoid trouble until he realized it was a ground switch.

Doug,

The first thing I would test is to check that you are getting power to the solenoid when you turn the key or hit the starter button.  If yes, then check to see if you are getting 13 volts on the starter side of the solenoid when in the start position.  The fuse to the starter is good right?

Yes you are correct in your thinking.  You shouldnt hurt the solenoid by jumpering it.  It should just take a piece of wire to jumper it and not a screw driver from the hot side of the solenoid to the termial from the key to make sure that the key is not the issue.  I had a starter shit the bed on me that just up and quit.  Started fione one start, then nothing the next.  But you should atleast hear the solenoid pulling in when you hit the key (click).  I had the local aurtomotive shop rebuild my started for 68 bucks including new brush plate etc.

Check at the local ATV, Motorcycle store.  They usually have a selection.

I'm working in Kuparuk on the north slope.. I hear you on the wanting to play on the time off, not do a bunch of work!

Yep I work at a remote plant site north of Fort McMurray in Alberta. Now I need to find a plane that doesn't need a bunch of work. Anybody got an Avid or a Kitfox with a 912 for sale?

Dang! That was fast! You oilfield trash like me?

Sold it.

Alright, I can't figure this out. It wasn't the broken wire, some day I'll chase it down and figure where that goes (damn tefzel wires all looks the same without labling). Any suggestions where to check next?

[edit] I would add that I removed the starter solenoid before testing to avoid creating any potential problems doing so when wired into the system. Now that it is back in, I would like to try another test.

Tell me if you think I will harm anything if I remove the wire from the spade terminal and, with a screwdriver, touch the spade terminal and the hot part of the solenoid to see if the starter engages. Shouldn't think so, however, don't need an expensive learning moment either!

I am also taking a voltmeter with me next time. Is this the correct method to test the starter solenoid?

- Set voltmeter to 12 volts.

- Attach the negative probe from the voltmeter to a negative ground.

- Attach the positive probe from the voltmeter onto the positive wire leading off of the solenoid that runs from the solenoid to the starter post.

- Turn the key on the ignition as if I was starting and read the voltmeter.

Am I correct thinking that if the solenoid needs to be replaced, the meter will read little or no voltage. If the solenoid is good, I will get a solid 12-volt-plus reading on the meter.

Yes, asking $7500, at the rate I work it will take me a lot more than a week to fix, it really needs a complete fabric job. I spend most of my time away from home, and the time I do have I would rather be flying than working on a plane. Also looking for a plane with a 912 on it.

I think I am approaching 35 hours.   Phase 1 is complete and it is a great plane. 

The wife and I are visiting the Greenville SC area for a couple of weeks.  Anyone with an Avid or Kitfox plane or project In the area that wants a visit?  Give me a call at 1-218-750-3851  Thanks,  Jim Chuk

That is an easy fix... under a week to have it in the air and flying Randy.

That subie sure is quiet!  How many hours do you have on your plane now Jeff?  What do you think of it? 

I believe 7,500 its posted here http://www.barnstormers.com/listing_images.php?id=776305 on barnstormers

What are you asking for it?

Kitfox Model IV - 1050 Project for sale. 375 hrs TTAF, approx. 213 hrs SMOH on Rotax 582 grey head. I bought this airplane last summer, but it was damaged in transport while I was bringing it home on a trailer. It needs some work before it is airworthy. Needs new fabric, and the longerons on the top of the fuselage behind the turtledeck need to be straightened. I also have a new molded windshield and clear bubble doors from LP Aero and a new clear lexan turtledeck from Kitfox. Has Grove spring gear, tundra tires and skis. Has dual 13 gallon wing tanks. Registered as an Advanced Ultralight (AULA) in Canada. • Contact Randy Engler, Owner - located Sylvan Lake, AB Canada • Telephone: 403-896-0551 Email:rengler@live.ca - will consider trading up to a flying aircraft.