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Good old number 29 added a post in a topic Bringing a Kitfox 1 back to life 26 February

A little progress on the cowling. The boot cowling fits tightly and looks good. Everything is tight in the cowling. I'm waiting for more resin to cure, for the lower cowl and exhaust bulge, before tying those parts together, then doing the final fit.

I'm still working on the airbox. It's tight in the cowl. I ordered a good K&N filter that will squeeze into the narrow slot it needs to fit in. I'll set it up automotive style, with the air intake ducted to the lower box, and two hoses connecting the upper box to the carbs, above the air filter.

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1avidflyer added a post in a topic Not sure if yall want to see this mess but here it is 23 February

I'm glad to see you decided to keep working on it. In a way it would be nice if a guy could hang a lighter motor on it, and still have something like 150 HP. I'm scared of the high revs of the Yamahas, and wonder if the 915, 916 Rotaxes will stick together when you drag so much more power out of them. And they cost a crazy amount of money besides. Well Dean knew far better than me how to design a great airplane, and the Magnum was designed for an O-320. Stay busy on it and keep the videos coming! JImChuk

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TJay added a topic in Avid fox flyers pics and vids 22 February

Not sure if yall want to see this mess but here it is

Strongest Airplane I have ever seen
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pfP4BewKOWs

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1avidflyer added a topic in Avidfoxflyers General Hangar 18 February

EAA webinar on tailwheel operations tonight

This could be helpful to many of us perhaps. JImChuk EAA webinar at 7 PM CST 2/18/2026 Register at:https://pages.eaa.org/WBN2026-02...Tailwheel Flying TechniquesWednesday, February 18, 2026, 7 p.m. CST

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Avid Bart added a post in a topic Nice weekend landing on the lakes 17 February

Hey Jim. I have been wanting to fly up to Mille Lacs for Ice Port, but it hasn't worked out yet. This year I will be at Rainbow Aviation in Missouri for the light sport repairman training. I'm looking forward to that so I can start doing my own condition inspections.
I don't have skis for the Avid yet. I would like to build a set but I really don't know how much use I would get out of them. I have been landing on the lakes on wheels this year and last. Maybe we will get more snow next year and i will need them.
Nice that you are able to fly while you are down south. With the new light sport rules, you should have an easier time finding a plane that you could rent while you're away.
-Brett

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1avidflyer added a post in a topic Nice weekend landing on the lakes 16 February

Looks nice, have you ever flown to the Ice Port fly in on Mille Lacs lake? I miss out on most of the winter flying with taking the wife down south. I did get to do a flight review in a CT Sting on Friday though. There was no sign of snow or ice, and it was in the mid 70s. Do you have skis for the plane? No need for them now though from the looks of things. JImChuk

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Avid Bart added a topic in Avid fox flyers pics and vids 16 February

Nice weekend landing on the lakes

It sure has been quiet on the forum lately. Here is my weekend activity. We are finally getting a break from the cold weather here in Minnesota. This weekend has been highs of almost 50 degrees and calm winds so it was perfect flying weather. I flew with another guy with a PA-11. He said this is the first time flying with someone where his plane is not the slowest. The Avid is not a hot rod but suits its mission perfectly getting my butt off the ground.
We landing on a bunch of lakes and then had lunch at the Grumpy Minnow on a lake just north of our home airport.

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Good old number 29 added a post in a topic Bringing a Kitfox 1 back to life 10 February

Yes, I used clear packing tape with plastic, and it works well. Because the cling wrap was prone to wrinkling, I tried using painter's film for the outlet side of the radiator baffling. It made a smoother surface, but did not release easily from the epoxy. The tape is fine. Painter's film, no. I've used 6 mil poly for other things, and it works great. It took some effort to peel the painter's film off the inside of the duct. Anyway, it all worked as intended, with a smooth outer surface, and minimal extra epoxy filling wrinkles on the inner surface.
On the radiator inlet, two layers of 4 oz fabric made a decently strong duct. On the outlet, which I was able to wipe tighter, with no excess epoxy, due to its straight, flat sides, two layers of 4 oz. fabric was flimsy. Resin does add meaningful rigidity to some parts, though maybe not the same strength as glass. Also, the inlet had more angles, corners, and curves, with less flat, straight, surface area, allowing the walls to flex less.

I ended up with four good layers of 4 oz on the outlet, which is light and strong. I haven't weighed it, yet, but the inlet is 6 oz.
Inlet and outlet both have 28 sq. in. openings. The inlet will be belled open at the cowl, while the outlet will have an additional duct coming off the side, for cockpit heat, with the back end open at the back, bottom edge of the cowl.

I have the upper and lower boot cowls laid up, and the front top of the cowl. Four layers of 6 oz bi-directional fabric made the same approximate rigidity and thickness as the original.

I'm not a huge fan of epoxy, but it sure is nice to do the work inside. I grew up working with polyester resins, and still have an appreciation for how quickly it can be made to set up, and how hard its finish is, versus epoxy. I think fewer layers could have been used for my radiator shroud, with polyester. But, no way would I be doing that in the house, and not with a styrofoam form.
There is still work to be done to the cowling, molding bumps to clear the exhaust pipes, top and bottom, fitting the airbox, which I intend to integrate into the lower cowl, shaping the front, with the air inlets, and the lower cowling.
Shown here, upside down, the radiator should have plenty of airflow, with the intake duct catching air from the inner radius of the prop. I can add volume to the inlet, on one side, if I need to increase flow, but I believe that it will be sufficient. The incoming air is pinched off a bit, with the duct tapering down to 2" in height from the radiator, at the rear. But, the opposing pressure on the outlet should also be lowest there, as it exits the opposite side, which should facilitate the even flow of cooling air through the entire surface of the radiator.

I'll do some final smoothing, inside and out, and hit it with a coat of paint.

Now, back to work....

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1avidflyer added a post in a topic Bringing a Kitfox 1 back to life 6 February

I'm sure the box tape would work, in one of Mike Patey's videos he did that to make a mold for duplicate parts. He just had to spend more time smoothing up the mold where the ridges were from the layers of tape. I should have done a mixture of the shrink wrap, and the packing tape. JImChuk

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Avidventurous added a post in a topic Bringing a Kitfox 1 back to life 6 February

I never thought of using stretch wrap to isolate a mold. Jim I like your idea of using shrink wrap too. I wonder if box tape will work??? Just thinking out loud.....

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1avidflyer added a post in a topic Bringing a Kitfox 1 back to life 6 February

I tried to use the blue heat shrink plastic wrap to copy a cowl. The shrink wrap didn't shrink quite enough in some places. I was wanting to finish up the plane the cowl fit, so I gave up on it. I should have kept at it, cause later on, I waited over a year for someone else to make that second cowl. Keep at it though, and you will be glad you did once it's finished. JImChuk

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Good old number 29 added a post in a topic Bringing a Kitfox 1 back to life 5 February

With the radiator, I made a form with foam and cardboard taped onto the radiator, and covered with plastic. The glass will pop right off, and I can throw out the form. It fits perfectly to the radiator.

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Good old number 29 added a post in a topic Bringing a Kitfox 1 back to life 5 February

And now, to wait. I stuck cling wrap on the old cowl, and used it as a form, to lay my fiberglass over it. Less chance of sticking it to the cowling than if I used wax. You can see wrinkles in the cling wrap, under the glass, but the top is smooth.

I laid a single layer to the length needed to make a boot cowl. There have been times I wanted one, to run with the cowling off. It trashes the windshield if the cowling isn't bracing it. Then, I covered it with another layer of cling wrap, so the next layer didn't stick to it, and lapped the front section over it. It will need to stretch forward about an inch, and the overlap allows me to do that.

The inlet for the radiator is basically done. Just waiting for it to cure. It was a challenge to clear the motor mount. Besides that, the radiator angles at basically a straight line from the inlet to the outlet, and the fittings are both on the same end, so I had to fight all that. I'll attach heat ducts from the outlet baffle, into the cockpit.

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Good old number 29 added a post in a topic Bringing a Kitfox 1 back to life 4 February

This is how simple it was to make clearance on the firewall, between the footwells. Just snipped both sides in to the top corner, where feet never could go, anyway, and bent the center section out to match.

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Good old number 29 added a post in a topic Bringing a Kitfox 1 back to life 4 February

There, that's better.

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Good old number 29 added a post in a topic Bringing a Kitfox 1 back to life 3 February

Slow progress here. Last month was too cold to weld in the unheated shop, and windy to boot.
I wasn't satisfied with my first mount, so I cut it apart, pulled the belt guard off the engine, shaved 3/4" off each footwell, and slid the motor back 2". Then, I cut the mount back apart and got another inch out of it. I don't even know where the extra inch came from, but I made the most of it. The most work, that is.
On the firewall, I just cut the top of the footwell back, at an angle from the bend, then bent the sides of the center section out, to rivet back in place. No new material, still enough room for the pedals. Quick, easy adjustment.
I cut the pipes at the bend and turned them 90º, so they exit rearward, side by side.
Configuring the pipes that way made room to stuff the radiator in the cowling. I'll duct and baffle it so it has full airflow properly directed through it, and out the cowling, with a duct for cabin heat, rather than putting a heater core inside.
I'm also working on a ram air duct in the cowling. No reason not to make good use of that fan on front, if not putting the air to work for better performance.
I have my old Powerfin on it, in one picture. Not enough prop, but it just feels like something is missing, without it.
To make weight and balance....... Yeah, it's heavier than the 503. I can lose 26 pounds just by switching back to the smaller, 8.00 x 4" tires. More, if I put the Kitfox landing gear back on, with the 3/4" axles and smaller brakes. The two wing tanks each weigh 13 pounds, so it wouldn't be hard to take 60 pounds off, if I stopped caring about fuel capacity.
I'm adding a 10 lb battery, for the electric start. That might end up all the way in the tail, with bigger cables than I would have wanted. Any weight I can take off comes from near the CG, so it doesn't do much for balance, it only reduces empty weight. Yes, I could shift some weight back if I mounted the radiator underneath, but I like it clean and protected, so it's in the cowling.
I should re-cover the fuselage. The original dark blue paint of the Arctic Tern paint theme was a Dupont automotive enamel, which is cracking and ringworming. Otherwise, the fabric is okay. I've painted over the worst of it, to protect the exposed fabric, but the time is coming. Could lose some weight, from the plane and my wallet, with Oratex.
Since this is the last Victor 2 I had in stock, I went ahead and mounted the intake crossover, which I also had on hand. It's supposed to make it run more smoothly and efficiently, not that I care much about that. Well, maybe a little.
I don't have pics, but I got the exhaust hangers tacked in place. Need to tack three radiator mounting tabs, then on to the cowling.
I wanted to do carbon fiber, but I got some 4 and 6 oz glass, instead, in the interest of getting it done at slightly less than the highest possible cost. I can always use that as a form, if I want to replace it with carbon, later.
The prop is still hanging. I have a rather hefty Helix H60V, that would do, but I might get an H40, possibly a fixed-pitch, to try to keep the nose light. I looked into E-Props, but they said it won't hold up on this motor. I'd've felt bad about putting a competitor's prop on it, anyway, being a Helix seller. It was tempting to go for that 6 pound, 78 inch four blade, just for the weight factor, but I know I'll ultimately be happier with the stronger, higher quality Helix.
Not all the pics would load, but I'll try to add some separately. Anyway, the wind is ripping, as it has for most of the winter, but the glass is nice and warm, downstairs, just waiting to take shape. Time to make it happen.

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Good old number 29 added a post in a topic Simonini engines 3 February

This has been an interesting year, and kind of tough for business. The Victor 2's that I ordered, last January, at a cost of about $8,500 each, have all sold. With the onslaught of tariffs starting last April, tanking the exchange rate, and an increase in Simonini's prices, the last Victor 2 I got delivered, in June, cost $10,500, at the previous 10% EU tariff. As it happened, that was the last Victor model produced, to date, due to supply issues with castings, cylinder sleeves and plating, crankshaft splines and couplings, and ignitions. The production date has been pushed back, a couple times, but the latest is that they'll have more ignitions and be able to produce more engines by mid-February, '26. With the current tariff and exchange rate, my posted list price of $12,000 isn't enough to purchase and ship an engine. At no point, in the past year, has my posted price been equal to, or greater than, the cost to replace the engine I was selling. In the ten months since the first eight engines were delivered, last April, costs have increased by 50%. I haven't been able to raise prices fast enough to keep up. Fortunately, I had the foresight to order those first engines when the exchange rate was at its recent lowest rate, and before tariffs were slapped on us.
Simonini is a small company. They've made some 20,000 engines, which is really impressive for a family company with four employees. The Victor series has been in production for 20 years, but the Victor 2 has averaged only 14 per year. Last year, they made 7, and I sold 5 of those. As prices have skyrocketed, it's gotten harder, but without production, it's impossible. When they get back in production, I expect that we'll be at $13,000, which reflects the break-even point of drop-shipping a single engine directly to the customer. I'm not going to carry stock and ship bulk at this price.
The tariffs and ceasing of production was an expensive and untimely irritant. The announcement of the initial tariff rate came during the first days of Sun N Fun, putting a damper on that show. The last tariff rate increase came as I set up for Oshkosh, along with the news that the Victor series was out of production. Thank God for alcohol. No, I'm kidding, but it was enough to drive a man to drink. Here, eight months later, I'm keeping busy with little parts and pieces, and waiting for good news.
We still have Victor 1's in stock, along with 250's. The more I deal with other stuff, the more inclined I am to build an ultralight, or get into powered parachutes. Light, simple, cheap, and unregulated.
One bright side of the business has been Helix Props. We haven't been selling high volume, by any means, but they make some awesome props, and are absolutely reliable and easy to work with, shipping right way. If you haven't gotten a look at Helix props, take the time to check them out. They are top notch. They have absorbed the tariff costs, for the time being, keeping our price the same, but for the exchange rate, which is of course 16¢ higher than last January. In regard to quality and precision construction, Helix is clearly the best composite prop manufacturer.
It seems like everyone is into E-Props, these days. I've heard the spiel, seen the props, looked at the numbers, and have been told that they won't sell me a prop for Simonini's Victor engines, because the props come apart with the vibration. Blaming the customer and engine, of course, but it's clear that their props are pretty flimsy. That's why they work. The blades flex under a load, effectively reducing pitch under high load, then springing back at cruise speed. So, their strength is rooted in their light construction, which is also their weakness, literally. The blades aren't some super efficient design, allowing them to magically be more effective and efficient, they're built light enough to flex and lose some pitch when under a load.
I once suggested building a wing that would do that, and was sternly warned about the dangers of flex and flutter. The idea has its merits, but weakness is still a weakness, and there are reasons that we want rigidity. Maybe, with modern composites, it's an idea whose time has come. But, if a bit of vibration makes it come apart, it's probably still best to have a solid structure.
So, here I am, in the middle of nowhere. It looks like the best option to power a Kitfox is still to rebuild the engine from an '84 Ski-doo Alpine. Unless, of course, we're talking about a new Kitfox, in which case only an $80,000 Rotax 916 will do. Maybe 12 or 13 grand isn't bad for a new Simonini, if you can get one. It's just disappointing, and hard on business, to have prices go up so much, especially when the increase is split between paying the government for nothing, and trading dollars at a higher rate, because of their trade policies. Thank God I quit drinking.
It's like we're right back where experimental aircraft really took off, but almost in reverse. A new kit costs as much or more than a comparable certified plane. In fact, you can buy a nice ditch banger for the cost of a new Rotax. Or, whatever you call an old plane that you can bounce around in. I don't think that the new Mosaic rules are going to help that, in any regard. The cost of eggs might be down, but anything to do with aircraft is sky high. Unfortunately for me, I also sell eggs, when the chickens comply. I might have to slap a tax on myself to produce more eggs.

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TJay added a post in a topic Magnum Mixer control 3 February

Definitely not a Magnum

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Bushrod added a post in a topic KF4 round cowling 28 January

? this is not a std cowling for a kitfox??? The seller might have said it was for a vw, I think??

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Av8r3400 added a post in a topic KF4 round cowling 28 January

Do you know if this is for VW or Subaru? It's not the standard round cowl.

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Bushrod added a topic in For Sale and wanted, you got it, I want it 27 January

KF4 round cowling

I have a ROTAX Round cowling for a kitfox4. It was included in the used KF4 kit I purchased last year. I have the top & bottom rear/ top bottom rings. Retail cost 1250. I'm asking $600. + shipping, or OBO!! Why not text back and make an offer!
Why am I selling? I purchased the smooth cowling for my KF4.
I have additional, detailed pics if you want.
My email is: bushrod1@protonmail.com
Cowling is located in North GA. Thanks!

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1avidflyer added a post in a topic Wing covers. 19 January

I'm sure you have heard the saying, "when the brain doesn't work, the body suffers". Your solution proves it's true. Brain is working, and body has an easier time of it. Some good ideas! JImChuk

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AvidJack added a topic in Technical tasks 18 January

Wing covers.

I hangar in an OLD shed, which dumps dust and **** on the planes. I've used a horsehair brush on a shop vac way too often, and started wondering whether a twin sheet.. maybe, but it would take a lot of sewing, not my strong suit. Then I noticed drop cloths were on sale at (drumroll) Harbor Freight, and they had 10 oz canvas cloths that were 4x12 ($10) and 4x15 ($12) (even better at 40% off this weekend). Those, and a few elastic bedstraps (Amazon, used to tighten sheets), and I'm looking forward to NOT cleaning the wings on a regular basis.
The door to my shed is 20 feet wide, so I have to fold to bring them in. The stand in the back makes it possible to unfold, and lessens the need to de-fuel. Lift the tail onto a sawhorse, put on the stand, and you're ready to fold. Without the stand, a wing can easily get away from you, and it's certainly not fun to unfold uphill by yourself without it.
I used to roll it in and out by hand. I'm older (not wiser, and sure not stronger) now, so modified my tailwheel dolly to accomodate a lawn tractor as a tug. but I'd be shocked if they didn't go on sale again.
Jack
Austin, TX

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TBflyer added a post in a topic Avid Flyer Mk4 wide landing gear bungee length 18 January

Thanks, Jim! That's great information. I will check again what is already on but it seems to be the 3/8" cord. /Johan

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1avidflyer added a post in a topic Avid Flyer Mk4 wide landing gear bungee length 18 January

I did a bit of searching and found this thread on the same topic as your question, At the end, Doug Holly says bungees are 100" and 8 wraps. Others said 1/2" diameter, but I wonder if you can get 8 wraps of 1/2" bungee in there. Compare what you already have on that one. JImChuk
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