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  1. EDMO


    Russ,

        You have my sympathies and understanding - old neck injuries and torn right rotary cuff make me hurt every wake-up - neither specialist says that they can do anything - just have to bear with it for old age - not giving up yet, but the day may come.

    Hoping for your recovery.

    EdMO

  2. dholly


    I always found the visualizations of air-traffic movement interesting.

    This one shows U.S. air traffic and is cool because it includes the grounding of all planes on 9/11/11.

    Here's a recent one with very cool graphics showing 24hrs or European air traffic. Interesting to see the orderly corridors between continents.

    Enjoy!

  3. dholly


    For those who have complied with this SB, you know the new style 893110 fuel pumps include a new drain line nipple.

    I'm curious to see exactly how folks have routed this drain line (got pics?) and if they have experienced any fuel drainage?

    Rotax SB-912-063 R1 HERE says:

    3.6.3) Check drain line

    NOTE: A slight leakage on the drain line can be attributed to a slight "sweating" and not considered to be a issue. For a period of 1 minute after the engine has been stopped, no liquid must drip down. In case of uncertainty determine the oil amount. The maximum leakage is 0.5 ml for a 20 min engine run..

    Also, the new fuel pump mounting hex nuts require tightening torque 15 Nm (133 in.lb), but you can't get a standard socket straight on them. Not sure a crows foot would work very well either. Anyone have a suggestion or source for a 11mm torque wrench extension? Don't need a $200 set!

    post-53-0-09562700-1398274782_thumb.jpg

    post-53-0-94885000-1398274810_thumb.jpg

  4. dholly


    Just a FYI... I know this plane well and I am confident the buyer of this package is getting a good deal and will be pleased with their purchase. I would note, while not specifically mentioned in the B.S. ad, this plane does already have ethanol proof poly wing tanks installed.

    Despite all the ball busting that goes on between us, I also have the highest regard for Russ' capabilities as builder. He was a long time pilot and (multiple) aircraft owner long before building his Avid, and I have valued his input and expertise every time he stopped in to lend me a hand (not to mention a couple long road trips to pick up a couple of my projects, w00t!). I also know he wouldn't be going this route if his medical issue was not so serious. My thanks and best wishes for a speedy recovery Russ. I know it was an emotional decision and I count my blessings as I am another year older myself today!

  5. Russ.


    Yes it is still in Phase 1.  I have pinched nerve and disk problems in my neck.  Have limited movement and strength in left arm,and going into right arm.  Until operation and results from

    this are better, I have grounded myself.  Russ.

  6. dholly


    I've found Rotax Service Instruction SI-13-1996 (INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS OF REV-COUNTER PART NO 966403 AND 966408 FOR ROTAX® ENGINE TYPE 912 AND 914 (SERIES) SI-13-1996 R2 ) which confirms the top right pin on tach is Ground, and lower center pin is the RPM engine feed.

     

    Still looking to answer the other questions, thanks.

     

     

    si-13-1996-r2.pdf

  7. cowlove


    I'd love to see the documents that you have.  It looks like after the change in '91 to a 7.5:1 cone, they issued a SI in '06 suggesting adhesive compound and a higher torque, then changed the part again in 2008 to a 1:10 taper (so an even shallower cone) and upped the nut torque even more for all part numbers. 

     

    While I had it apart, I identified the cone as described in the '08 SI, and it's indeed the 7.5 cone, which coincides pretty well with the date of the unit. 

     

    So I cleaned everything perfectly, took a stone and applied a pretty axial hone pattern on all the friction surfaces, used AC648, and warmed the gear to 350degF in the oven before pressing it on.  I set the nut with thread lube, a greased flat washer and a very liberal interpretation of 220ft-lbs of torque, then removed it, cleaned the threads, and did final assembly it with loctite, the serrated washer, and the proper torque. 

     

    In short, I did about everything I can think of to help the existing part work.  If it slips again, the way I see it, I've got no choice to buy new parts.  And then I might as well upgrade to an E gearbox and a slipper clutch :)  Sigh. 

     

    J

  8. Luked


    No problem Chris. I know where you were coming from. I think It's human nature to want to add stuff to things we build. Hopefully I can resist that.

    1 person likes this
  9. ChrisBolkan


    Nice that the crank worked out. After further reading of your threads I think going super light with no electrical and the stretch that this plane may just work out and fly like a dream.

     

    So many people go in with eyes closed when choosing to put big engines in these planes and then stack more on. You are not doing that. You are thinking about everything and have the right perspective for your project to be a success.

     

    I think you have a winner. With 80+hp these planes perform really well if kept relatively light.

     

    Forgive my don't use the big engine rant. I can't wait to see how this turns out.

    1 person likes this
  10. Luked


    Just a little update to my project. I got my crankshaft back from Oklahoma yesterday. Everything checked out, and it's now got a yellow tag. Based on this, I think I will be building up a C-85 for the Avid. Hope to have some other updates in the near future!

     

    post-760-0-79176300-1398185531_thumb.jpg

     

    post-760-0-67962800-1398185535_thumb.jpg

     

     

  11. dholly


    Thanks Jerry, that would be very helpful if its not too much trouble. After finally getting everything wired, programmed and operating properly, I'd hate make a mistake now! Maybe you could confirm your span range and alarm settings for me while you're there too.

    I think you are correct, if your issue is isolated to high RPM range only, a simply sensitivity adjustment is probably all you need. E-1 manual says some Rotax engines (2-strokes mainly, I think?) may require a 220 ohm ballast resistor fitted between the rev counter input and the ground terminal if you cannot obtain stable RPM throughout the range regardless of any setting of the rev counter sensitivity adjustment screw.

    Once I get the RPM hooked up, I'll let you know if I run into any high range fluctuation issues and if the sensitivity adjustment screw on the back solved it for me.

    Appreciate the help.

  12. dholly


    Ok, I'll play...

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    ..

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    .

    .

    .

    .

    .

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    ...IT MUST BE HELL TO GET OLD!!!

    Hehe, well maybe not, but the new aches and pains certainly do leave a lot to be desired!

    :beer chug:

  13. jerrytex


    I have this same exact set up but I hooked the tach into the hotbox. When I get a chance, I'll swing by and see if I can trace the wire from the hotbox to the connector on the tach gauge. The other suggestion is call MGL. I made several calls to them to get mine set up and they are the one's that told me where to hook up the tach wire. My tach is still not working 100%. At high RPM's, it will read real high, like 9000 rpm and fluctuate. At low RPMs it closely matches the Rotax tach gauge. I have not had a chance to fool with the RPM sensitivity yet, and feel confident that that is the problem. 

  14. dholly


    "See How It Flies - a new spin on the perceptions, procedures, and principles of flight"

    Dr. John S. Denker

    This is an online book, with 20 chapters, 140,000 words and over 280 color illustrations. This book is intended to appeal to pilots and everyone else who is interested in how airplanes behave. The idea is to concentrate on ideas that are useful in the cockpit, and to explain them as clearly as possible.

    Go to book ---> http://www.av8n.com/how/