lv2plyguitar

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Posts posted by lv2plyguitar

  1. Posted · Edited by Avid Heavy

    The rings are 50 cents a piece. I put one out in the tip and another by the strut attach points. I went through 3 conditional inspections with an A&P I was paying with the fabric still on them and he didn't say anything. I opened them up this year and used a mirror on a stick and an LED flashlight to look around. What do you know it looked exactly the same as when I covered the wings :blink:/>/>/>

    I am still a little confused about what to expect when I finally get the DAR to do my inspection. It has been said several times on this forum that "experimental" means I can do what I want to. What is the DAR going to look for then other than the correct markings, ie 2" experimental, passenger notice, 3" n numbers, data plate on tail, etc.

  6. Posted

    Get in contact with EAA Chapter 42 in Anchorage - Tim Rittal, Real Estate Broker, was the President, and he has his plane at Birchwood - there may be some members who can help you - Believe there may be some Kitfox or Avid owners at Birchwood or Merrill field. It is not illegal to fly with them and pay for the gas.

    There were letters of deviance that were issued to some flying instructors that lets them use their planes, but you would have to get the ruling from the FAA or EAA as to who and what is authorized.

    Tell Tim that Ed Ashby referred you to him for help. He should be in Anchorage phone book: Real Estate Brokers.

    Good Flying,

    ED in MO

    Hey ED,

    Tim asked how your doing. Tim is out of loop because he crashed his Glasstar in 2009. Would be interested to know what happen for my education.

    Thanks

  7. Posted

    It's not legal, in the US, to rent an Experimental Amateur Built aircraft. You will need to find an SLSA - factory built - aircraft on a flight line somewhere.

    There is a company that specializes in Kitfox training in Idaho - Stick and Rudder Aviation.

    Are you just looking for transition training or do you need to start/finish your certificate?

    Just found an instructor with a light sport aircraft.

    Thanks

  8. Posted · Edited by Avid Heavy

    I am in Wasilla Alaska and I am looking for someone in Alaska who wants to rent their light sport (preferably Kitfox or Avid) to me on an hourly basis for my instructor to give me instruction. I would need to fly it 20 hrs or less with the instructor. The instructor has 46000 hours of flying time. Let me know what your hourly rate would be. Of course I would pay for the gas as well. The plane would need a certificate of airworthiness.

    Thanks

  10. Posted

    How come mine don't leak when parked on a 20 degree slope sideways?

    I dont know. I would call bing and ask them the same question I did. I am not sure I am satisfied with their answer. You should just for giggles loosen one of your carb boots and tilt the carb at like 10 degrees tighten it back up and then start your engine with fuel on and see what it does.

    Even in the AVID manual it says to set the carb at level flight.

  11. Posted

    What are you using for a tach? Are you sure your turning 5500? When alone I run mine at 5600-5800. When I am chasing a group faster than me Ill run it at 6000. It burns up some fuel though doing that.

    I am using the MGL Avionics Tach RV-1. Cost $250.00 bucks. I do have a backup so I know the rpm is accurate.

    Thanks

  12. Posted

    I appreciate all the feedback I have been getting for my questions. It has helped alot so please bare with me while I ask another question. What coolant should I use in my rotax 582 greyhead and what mixture. I live in Alaska so usually no temperatures over 70 at the height of the summer in Wasilla. I have the AVID Mark IV with the cheek radiators.

    I am aware to use distilled water in the mixture.

    Thanks

  13. Posted

    Started up my rotax 582. 5500 rpm is spinning very fast. Kind of scary. :( Hope I get used to that kind of rpm. Waiting for something to fly apart.

    Do any of the other 582 owners have the same feeling?

  14. Posted

    I noticed on alot of the AVID pictures the snap in vents on the Plexi glass doors. Is that required and would I need a vent in Alaska.

    Thanks

  16. Posted

    I had the same experience on my Kitfox III, 582 grey head, 3:1 gearbox and IVO 2 blade 70" medium ground adjust. I must have had the carbs apart a dozen times checking float levels, changing the viton tipped float needles and making sure all passages were cleaned. I also changed out the motor mounts in case the rubber had stiffened with age. Still the gas poured out the vents. Eventually I came to the realization that the inertia of that medium IVO was too much to idle the 582 smoothly. The solution was installing a RK 400 clutch.

    It looks like you have the same IVO. Can you try a lower inertia prop for an idle test?

    -- Paul S

    Just got it from the horses mouth (Bing Manufacturing) that the carbs must be in a level position or they will leak gas through the overflow. I asked him what prevents it from leaking when in a turn or climb or dive and he said he didnt know but for some reason it works. Weird. :blink: My carbs leak no gas at idle until they are tilted out of level. :dunno:

  17. Posted

    I am in the process of rigging my avid floats. They are the original ones that came with the kit. I am stumped though with part of the instructions. The plans call for a bolt and washer where the cross tubes are inserted into the float. I am not sure what kind of bolt or washer. There is no threads or holes in that area at all. See the attached pictures. In one picture I am pointing to the place the bolt and washer is supposed to go. I marked it with a black mark. The other picture is a photo of the only directions for that.

    Thanks

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  18. Posted

    A little on the warm side. At full power in a climb on a warm day your going to most likely have issues. What model and radiator set up? Most guys eventually end up with a radiator on the belly.

    Which way should the bypass holes in the thermostat go? My engine is inverted. So does the holes go toward the head (down) or toward the crank (up).

    Also, how do I ensure that my cooling system is totally full of water? No air spaces. Does it bleed itself out?

    Thanks

  21. Posted

    Modified my wing jack by putting a screw jack for lifting rather than a nut wrench combination. Much smoother lifting now. It will raise about 7 1/2". Hope to try it real soon. My new wheels will come this week so I can switch to ski's, then I can get my ski's rigged to my new gear.

    I noticed in the picture you have a second bolt in the tail wheel spring. How did you ever manage to get the second in because they originally had one and that area in the back is very tight.

    Thanks

  22. Posted

    I bought my engine used and when I primed it up for the first time both carbs leaked out the vents.Pulled carbs apart and both looked spotless.Put them back together and same thing both leaked.I ordered two carb kits and it solved problem on both carbs.The old needles were hard so probably dried out from sitting.I set my carbs with a straight edge same angle as cylinder head.Randypost-104-13566658496924_thumb.jpg

    I am not sure what is going on with my carbs. Again, according to Steve a Airscrew Performance, if the carbs are not level the floats cannot operate correctly, but that doesnt make sense to me when in the air making turns, climbs and dives. My carbs were spotless as well (brand new) but had sit for a long time so I ordered a rebuild kit from Aircraft Spruce and replaced all that I could. I even tested the carbs by blowing into the inlet and then lifting the two arms on the needle. No air would pass through. It was not until I leveled the carbs with the ground and not the engine that they quit leaking fuel. When the tail dragger is on its rear wheel the engine is at an angle. If the carbs are leveled with the engine they are angled and this is what Steve said was causing them to leak.

    I hope some of you will continue to research this. I definately dont want to catch on fire in the air. I never had this problem until I replaced the needle operated by the float arm. I am going to dink with the tab so that the float closes the needle sooner. Let me know if you think that is a bad idea.

    Thanks

  23. Posted

    Looks good - Not hard to spot in the snow - Like the orange balls they use for snow golf in Palmer!

    When spring comes, you can get it muddy, and haul some fish in July, and it will look and smell like bush plane!

    Congrats, Is it still at Birchwood, or now at Wasilla?

    ED in MO

    It is now in Wasilla.

  24. Posted

    Decided to break up the monotony of the orange and give the plane a black stripe. Also replaced the tail wheel with a Matco 8" and replaced the original 16 tires with 21" aero classic tundra. Also completed the panel. Starting to look a little like a bush plane.

    Have a good new year.

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  25. Posted

    Hope its normal cause mine does the same thing, its got 150 hrs since rebuild and no issues.Randy

    Bless you. You took a load off my shoulders. I couldnt find any play in the wrist pin or crank. I dont know what causes that other than may be backlash in the rotary valve gears.

    Thanks