AvidJack

AvidJack added a post in a topic CONTRIBUTIONS TO KEEP SITE GOING 23 hours ago

I asked santa so nicely back in 2019 (according to this thread) for a paypal donation button on the home page, but I guess I was naughty that year, 'cause it didn't happen. I've been better (?) this year, and I did just send a paypal your way, but gosh darn it would be so much easier if santa would check his list twice (and maybe send out a yearly reminder that he was compiling his naughty list)..
Thanks for everyone's support.
Jack

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AvidJack added a post in a topic kitfox IV under seat storage.. how? 20 November

The edges on my box were 1) highly irregular and 2) too tall, pressing down on the frame and up on the seat pan. So, I cut them off, and glued with safety wire the pan to the frame. I also didn't like the way it would have cut into the formed seat "truss" on the botton of the pan, so made the access door smaller than the box to avoid the truss. I split foam tubing for the seat-to-box edge interface- no pics of that.

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AvidJack added a post in a topic Landing gear step.. Avid or Kitfox better? 20 November

Went with a step, but didn't like the idea of stressing the gear leg too much. ordered some 1" ID tubing, split that, then welded a bar support to those, and pop-riveted those to the gear legs.
Am about to cover the gear- this was one of those "stopping places" - need to get the fuse up on gear. Welds aren't pretty (one reason I didn't want to mess with the gear legs directly). The inserts are rivnuts.
Onward.

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AvidJack added a post in a topic 912 uls radiator/fairing for IV speedster 10 October

I picked up a 912 radiator, and started looking at the mods to the radiator speed fairing- it's a total rebuild. Which made me start figuring.. So, can anyone tell me why the cooling area of the vaunted 912 radiator is actually *smaller* by two square inches than the 582 radiator, which fits the speed fairing? And how that makes it better? Extra capacity by a few ounces in the side chambers can be cured, and I don't think the heat flow differential of two inches in height is going to make that much of a difference.
I had all the measurements for the "bigger" 912 radiator, but hadn't sized the "smaller" 582 radiator. Still spending time learning about radiators, thinking I may go the 582 route. Any thoughts? Anyone have experience with those 2-row ebay 582 radiators?
There's always sometHing.
Thanks, Jack

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AvidJack added a post in a topic MK4 engine choice? 27 September

The easiest way to go would be another 2200. You can pull the service manual off of the Jab web site, and at the very end it will tell you what the changes were by serial number. You have an early serial number, which would be the old J-head cylinders. Good news, they didn't overheat as much as the later models- mostly due to the fact that they didn't make the (advertised) power, coming in at around 55 HP, according to the certification of the engine in Australia. SN165 had a checkered past, but the really bad issues with the early engines were taken care of- the aluminum rods and early crank were replaced, along with the early block. It still retained the old heads, and the smaller carb. Those heads are hard to come by, but not totally impossible. Note that the prop was sized for the lower power engine, you'll need to replace it with a repower. 80 hp would make a *really* nice mk IV.
If you do go with an earlier jab (2200a), get a serial number as close to upper limit before they went to the hydraulic lifters, as per that service manual, or try a gen 4 model. It shouldn't be too hard to switch to a 912 series, the cowling would have been stretched to fit the jabiru,, but measurements would tell the tale. I wouldn't be surprised to find a bit of weight back by the tailwheel to counteract the jab installation. Plumbing in a radiator would probably necessitate removing any fairing work under the gear..
Jack Austin, TX

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AvidJack added a post in a topic original avid amphibian build manual 23 September

I might be able to give you a few pointers, depending on the avid you have.
All of the avids are homebuilts, and as such are fairly unique, meaning mine is different than yours, and pretty much all of the others. Figuring out how to help would be based on the serial number, which would tell me more about the gear release, and the propeller/engine combination. Heck, with the tail number, I can probably pull the engine combination, maybe even pictures.
I say this, because on build, I added the kitfox leading edge to the wings, as well as covering the upper leading edge with thin ply, to add more of a contoured shape. This gets rid of some of the dragginess, and shortens my takeoff and landings. I also have a Hirth 100 hp pushing a three blade warp prop, and in testing, I have *no* problems getting off the water at gross weight. My power-on stalls are also pretty hard to manage, as the power tends to offset the stick. I do have a youtube video of water operations- I watched a lot of them when building mine- had to move the bilge pump outlet upwards, as the original location was underwater (as shown on some of those videos) ! You can search "Granger Lake Splashin" on the utube for my video. Avid catalina for some of the others.
So, let me know what you have, and I can probably help some. If you've never flown a pylon-mounted engine, be aware that adding power tends to push the nose DOWN, which can be exciting during a go-around. I found that doing a lot of water landings made landing on runways a lot simpler, just hold it off as you do skimming the lake, and ease off power. Mine isn't *as* draggy, but it'll still glide like a brick if you don't push the nose down on power loss/drop. If you're used to side-slipping in a crosswind, you'll risk dragging a wing float- I find it easier to crab, then kick. That's where the skimming practice really helps.
And, ENJOY!
Jack

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AvidJack added a post in a topic Kitfox 4 build # 2 27 July

What radiator are you using? I'm going with a uls in my build, and am looking at the (ugly) mods to make the larger radiator fit in the fairing. Mind you, I'm in Texas (105 today), so it may be a no brainer (maybe run the heater in summer, to bleed off extra heat (like I had to do in my old buick (convertible!) 215 V8..?), but .. Which way did you go?
Looking good!
Jack, Austin, TX

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AvidJack added a post in a topic Getting the film off of (old) flaperons? 21 July

I thought about a heat gun, but didn't want to impact the foam internals, if they were made like the avid flaperons. Oddly, I've found that the spray can of Klean Strip Premium Stripper works much better than glopping on the liquid of the same brand, 2 coats vs 4. On the bright? side, I've just about whipped one flaperon, after 10 hours. Popsicle sticks make good scrapers, my lexan scraper didn't hold up to the stripper very well, dulling quickly. And, it's definatly something to avoid doing unless you tend towards ocd, pulling off thin strips, slowly to avoid breaking, by thin strip. My film was "shattered" by the years. Every now and then I get lucky and get a big chunk. Finish with purple scotchbright and wd40 to get the last of the adhesive off. I'll have to clean that off before priming. Temps inside the hangar hit 100 before noon, and using a fan for ventilation makes the stripper dry out too quickly, kinda like a convection oven.
Did go a lot better than getting the paper film off of the catalina lexan. I guess they don't think about long duration issues when they slap those "protections" on.

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AvidJack added a post in a topic Getting the film off of (old) flaperons? 16 July

Read a few internet reviews, and picked up:
Goof Off Pro Strength, and 2 Minute Remover (both top listed on the internet. so, of course..) Neither of which did a darn thing. First is a liquid, second a gel. nada.
Also picked up a spray can (also comes as a liquid) of Klean Strip Premium Stripper.. And this works pretty well, softening and bubbling up, making it possible to remove with my custom lexan scraper. I think I'll go with that- there is one thing.. they say let it sit for 15 minutes, and they also say best under 85 degrees. If you let it sit more than 20 minutes when the temp is 105 in the hangar, you waited too long. You've both softened the film, AND the adhesive, and it sticks right back down under the bubble.. I'll hit it again earlier in the morning.
Thanks for the pointers. I tried just about everything in the search boxes, but not protective coating. Jack

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AvidJack added a topic in Technical tasks 14 July

Getting the film off of (old) flaperons?

I'm building a kitfox IV speedster from a 31 year old kit. In those years, the plastic film covering the flaperons has become one with the metal.
Once upon a time I found a video where the poster had found a stripper that seemed to work given enough time, but I've been unable to find it again. Dug through this site, and another, no joy.
I'm open to suggestions!

Thanks,
Jack Austin, TX

6 replies
746 views

AvidJack added a post in a topic Catalina canopy 8 July

That took more than a week! Mine was 1/16", .062. I replaced the back side windows with 1/8", in an effort to cut down on interior noise. Lexan bends better than Plexi.

Sorry for the delay,

-Jack

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AvidJack added a topic in Kitfox IV 27 June

Landing gear step.. Avid or Kitfox better?

Back to building, ready to cover the gear legs, on the speedster, but...
The "angle welded to the Legs for this purpose" (page LG-H-1) to attach the step in the KF IV tubular gear doesn't exist. If I'm going to be modifying gear legs, I'm kinda leaning towards the avid "post" step, as easier to use, and adding more protection to the pants for passenger use. I've had both in the past, but the KF 2 I had was slow enough that I never put the pants on, so always stepped on the tire.. instead of the step. Mostly the same for the Avid MK 4
Rather than weld directly to the gear leg(s), I'll do whichever on a 1" id sleeve over the existing tubing. I don't want to compromise the existing tubing, not that I plan to prang it in, but, well, I may loan it to someone who..

Opinions?

Thanks,
-Jack
Austin Texas

1 reply
296 views

AvidJack added a post in a topic Catalina canopy 30 April

It'll be a few days before I can go out and measure, but I do know that I'd like it to be a bit thicker, as it has a tendency to deflect inward at higher speeds.
The pic stretched out with the wood braces was an attempt to straighten the lexan- it had one heckuva curl after all those years.
It may be a week before I can measure, but I'd recommend going with the next size up- it'll still bend to conform, and what I have probably sets the "VNE". I once asked why the VNE was set where it was, and the answer, from Mr. Wilson, was a "I didn't think anyone would want to fly it faster than that". I did build mine with the leading edge fairings, and the upper leading edge skins (which I'll never do again, oil canning is a problem), and I've been adding fairings to anything that was round.. The catalina gets a bit less balanced as you go beyond the published vne, which I can hit easily--- 100 HP hirth F30, 3 bladed warp prop. No issue getting off the water at gross.
$.02
Jack
N92KL

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AvidJack added a post in a topic Catalina canopy 26 April

One of the most difficult parts of the canopy for me was getting the paper off of the lexaxn after 25 years. I later replaced the side window with thicker lexan to cut down on interior noise.

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AvidJack added a topic in Kitfox IV 28 February

912 uls radiator/fairing for IV speedster

Does anyone have a picture of the mods they made to use the speedster radiator fairing for the rotax 912 radiator? I'm assuming that the 912 radiator is the one to use- I'm in Texas, so it does get warm every now and then. I'd kicked back and forth using the smaller radiator, and using the heater core as an adjunct radiator if needed, but..
Any pics would be appreciated!
Thanks,
Jack (Austin, TX)

1 reply
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