Kitfox 4 build # 2

46 posts in this topic

Posted

Hi all,  I've had this never finished Kitfox 4 sitting for almost 10 years, other planes kept getting in the way, and so it sat.  One other thing that has kept me from working on it was I really wanted to widen the fuselage, and hated to tear into that fabric that has never even left the ground.  Well I tried to pull the fabric off one door and stretch it out enough to do the widening job, but gave up and grabbed the knife. I had widened a Kitfox 3 that was covered that came out nice, but it wasn't painted out to finish coats.  So here we are at the end of today.  I made up some 1/2" thick wood to epoxy onto the powered coated fuselage, I'll also wrap it with one layer of fiberglass so there is no way it will ever come off.   I'll try to keep this thread updated as I go along, hopefully I will finish it this summer.  I have a 912 ULS to go into it.  JImChuk

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Posted

I just did the same thing- figured if it was ok on the avid to glue on wooden lift strut fairings that were structural, that widening the fuselage with wood would be a no-brainer.  I used 5/8 oukume plywood (left over from rebuilding a boat..), and notched the bottom with a 1/2" router bead.  I did figure the only real stress point might be my fat a$$ getting in, so put in a couple of supports on the bottom that would not be picked up by the fabric.  I'll post a couple of pics to go with yours.

Having a heckuva time bending the door frames to an exact match.  Finally getting close- I'll post pics of that as well.. that camera is at the hangar.  Like your clamps!

-Jack

Austin, TX

KF 4 speedstar (build)

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Posted

I have done my other Kitfox 4 and Avid with steel tube, for widening the fuselage, on the Kitfox 3, I used wood pretty much like this one.  I didn't wrap the wood before with fiberglass, and really shouldn't have to now, but it's pretty easy to get at with the fabric out of the way.  I didn't have much issue with bending the door frames, but it doesn't work if you have the windows or bottom panel in place.   I bent the door frame, and clamped or blocked it where it needed to be, and then fit the windows with the door frame in place.   JImChuk

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Posted

Nice work as always Jim and no matter what you do now days you will be able to get $40000 plus for the finished plane.

 

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Posted

Thanks TJay,  I plan to keep this one.  It will have my name on it, and I'll have the repairman's cert when all is done.  No more waiting on an AnP then.  Actually that hasn't been much of a problem, he has always got to me fairly quick.  But he can get busy, or go on a hunting trip or something also.  If I had just planed to sell it, I probably wouldn't have torn the fabric off, but I want this one the way I want it.  I got the wood glued on, and started to put a wrap of fiberglass around it to for sure hold it to the tube no matter what.  Also managed to get in about 1.4 hr flying the other Kitfox this evening.  JImChuk

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Posted

Nice Jim, following along...

would you mind telling the measurements roughly (width)?

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Thanks Marc

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Posted

I cut the board between your red lines at 2".  It ended up being a bit narrower, after I ran it through the router to fit the tube it's glued to.  Here are pics showing overall width.  JImChuk

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Posted

I did about the same sizewise..  only difference on my installatio was the addition of support blocks under the lower piece, and I haven't wrapped with fiberglass... (yet?).

One thing I've found extremely handy with the kitfox/avid planes.. that tailstand in the first pic that I threw together years ago with a harbor freight inflatable caster, and a cut-up bedframe, bolted together..   Has been used without adaptation on a KF 1, Avid MK4, Avid Catalina, and now the KF 4.  I lift the tail onto a padded sawhorse, install it on the towbar points, *then* fold the wings.  Since it's not welded, it's able to fit them all.

-Jack

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Posted (edited)

Little bit of an update.  Made a trim system similar to what Avids use.  I worked on the vernier cable idea, but that put the knob under my right leg, and it was hard to reach around my leg to use it.   just to clairify, the piece of wire in the castle nut is not a permanent cotter pin.   I made rudder pedal reinforcements and got them on.  Also started the fabric yesterday.  So progress is being made.  JImChuk

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Edited by 1avidflyer

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Posted

You ever thought about starting a business doing this Jim? Or is it more fun to keep hobbies hobbies?

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Posted

Na, no work for me.  I'm happy just doing it for myself.  If I had to do it for money for others, it wouldn't be near as much fun.  Especially if they thought it looked worse than I did.  

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Posted (edited)

Haha Im sure they all look good. And it that a amphibious one stuffed in there too?

Edited by TJay

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Posted

No, that is a post AvidJack posted of how he widened his Kitfox 4.  Looks like a Catalina in the background.   I got the side fabric all on now, just the top left after I thread the rudder cables though the sides.  (Don't want to forget them)....

 

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Posted

Not very fast, and not all that pretty either, but progress is being made.  JImChuk

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Posted

Are you still using 105 lacquer thinner for poly reducer?  I have been doing that for a while after reading you post about it with good results.

I guess I’m set for poly tone a friend gave me several gallons of products some unopened. Cub Yellow will be my color of choice it appears if I repaint my plane. 

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Posted

Just using regular lacquer thinner from the farm and fleet type store near me.  Not sure if it's true, but I was told that the 105 is a low grade lacquer thinner meant to clean spray guns.  The regular lacquer works good, and easy to find.  4 planes so far with no issues unless you use the blue painter's tape.  Make sure you use the green stuff.  And don't leave it on longer than needed.  JImChuk

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Posted

looks great From where I'm sitting keep at it.

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Posted

looks great From where I'm sitting keep at it.

Like I always say, good from far, but far from good!  Got the poly spray on today.  Poly tone tomorrow, and trim Saturday...  JImChuk

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Posted

looks great From where I'm sitting keep at it.

Like I always say, good from far, but far from good!  Got the poly spray on today.  Poly tone tomorrow, and trim Saturday...  JImChuk

Do you ever have troubles doing poly spray then poly tone the next day? I was told you should wait 4 days but I pushed it with my wings too. only gave it 3 days.

 

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Posted

Just went back to my manual, and on page 107 in the product profiles,  under 'finishing new fabric surfaces',  it says that after process is completed thru poly spray, and the last coat has dried at least one hour, apply a minimum of 2 coats of poly tone, allowing approximately 30 minutes drying time between coats.    I didn't think I had waited the last time I painted, but your question made me go looking.  Looks like poly tone tomorrow.   Made it gray today.  And of all things, I took the skis off the other Kitfox and am back on wheels.  Strip is about dried up as well.  JImChuk

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Posted

your moving right along Jim.  Boy I can't wait to be retired keep at it

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Posted

Don't wait to long on the retirement, I'm 70 now and I can feel it.  Old body is going down hill.  I took my pension at 55 and never looked back.  Best thing I ever did, especially after social security kicked in at 62.

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Posted

I took it at 52 and haven't had time to do anything since. 15 years later and still not caught up. Honey-do list still looks like an aircraft spruce catalog and keeps growing!

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Posted

And now it's white.  although it sort of looks gray.  Juneau white actually.  Trim color tomorrow.  They say to wait at least 12 hrs before applying trim tape masking.  JImChuk

 

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Posted

Little more progress today.  

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