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Good to hear. The world certainly could use more beautiful, brainy, brunette hardbodies, particularly those that love to play with planes!

If Randy makes it down there and takes you for a ride I am pretty sure you will be impressed with the plane.  His is stretched and widened and its a neat plane that really performs well for the $$.

Mike,

I am not sure what rudder bar you were using to start with, but with your pedals, it moves the pivot point to the right location to give me the leverage, but the 4D master was a 1/2" too long to bolt right in so I had to do some mods to make it fit. 

I would slap her so many times (and not with my hand ) she would think she was surrounded... I met her in the Anchorage airport last year and when you talk to her face to face, she is not the airhead that the show makes her out to be.  That show became so scripted it was not even funny.

One of the guys on BCP has a "swiss" muffler on his Rans S7 with a 912... but everyone there has renamed it to the "Sneaky Bastard Muffler System" cause they say ya cant hear him coming till he is RIGHT on top of you.

Not sure if it was the reference to Flying Wild Alaska or getting your dick slapped, but I do recall one particular episode with that hottie airhead Ariel (?) in a teeny weeny floss bikini jumping into a lake. Just sayin'.....

I think grove specifies 600 psi for thier ratings read it somethere probably kitplanes.Matco ratings are derived at 450 psi. Like I have said in the past the mc-4d the mc-4a the mc-4 setup in an avid all have the same leverage at the start 5.3 to 1. You go with a really short master and an extended clevis you start at 4.7 to 1. typical leverage under activation with an mc-4d should be 3.6 to 1 depending on rudder bar orientation.Shortness of the ram plays a part in leverage but it is the perpendicular distance ratio between vectors that are the true determining factor of leverage.I actually picked this up myself and verifed it with the content of George Happ's troubleshooting page.If I didn't have the leverage I claimed there is no way I could make the 600 psi I have demomstriated on the test stand.And matco's trougleshooting pages state anything over 600 doesn't do anything more just twists/flexes the bottom end.

MIke

Actually, they are only recommending increased oversite to one operator... the one and only that was made to look like bumbling idiots by the bullshit show "flying wild Alaska"  You cant wreck 6 or 8 planes and kill a bunch of people due to stupidity and not get your dick slapped..

30" fit fine, but you have to put a couple of spacers in the matco wheels and make longer axles.  The new shaved "bushwheel" from Dresser looks like they may be perfect for our Avids and kitfox IF your not planning on landing big rocks, just sand, gravel and grass strips.

Best value for your money is the aero classic 21 * 8*6 from desser. You will need tubes as well. They sit 2 inches higher than the ones you've got. Should help your angle of attack for take off as well. B

I took a quick look at the ridge runner specs. Very light empty and gross. I wonder if the gear would stand up to the heavier avid? I' pretty sure the airdale set truss is made of 5/8 tubing top, bottom and ladder supports. 

The sleeping giant of US Governenmental overreaching oversite and beurocracy has noticed you!

http://www.avweb.com/avwebflash/news/NTSB-Urges-Oversight-of-Specific-Alaskan-Operators221943-1.html

Yesterdays chicken scratch at the breakfast table if anyone's interested in the box dimensions

Thanks for the input thats what I was hoping for but wanted to know before i cut into my panel. here is how its looking so far. it will have the master switches on the far left side and will be painted yellow to match the rest of the plane. hate to cover up the carbon fiber but we want the gauge color to contrast the panel rather than just disappear into it. I made a tray behind the panel so the handheld sits flush but can still be easily removed for use outside the aircraft.

What type of terrain are you looking to land on? Grass, sand, gravel, stone?

You can easily put 21, 26, 29, 31, or even 35" diameter tires on a 6" wheel. This can range from a couple hundred dollars to several thousand.

I want to land on fields I was wondering how big a tire can I put on a 6 inch wheel.

Sorry to jump in so late I'm just finally getting caught up on some of the threads. to throw in an alternative option (which I chose to use on my project) the main gear legs off of a Ridge Runner http://realflying.com/ will fit perfectly on our airframes and they use the bungees like the cubs have under the plane rather than on the seat truss. all I had to do was fab up my own cabane and shorten the bungee struts 1/2" and it all bolted in real nicely just finished the mod this last weekend. This gear is just a tad longer than Brett's wide bush gear so it sets almost the same but replaces the springs with bungees. I'm planning to finish painting it this week and get it installed soon if you want pics just ask and I will shoot some for you.

-Robert-

I don't have the proper engineering words to explain this, but my comparison of the Matco internal disks and the Cleveland and Grove external disks indicates to me that the brake torque of the Cleveland and Grove has to be much greater than the Matco, considering the difference in leverage between a 2 inch radius for the Matco, and a greater, maybe 3 or 4 inch, radius for the external two.

I believe the MC and pad pressure are also greater on the Grove and Cleveland, but have no specs to prove this.

EDMO

IFMT, that would be great. I've been wanting to see what your upgraded truss looks like since you mentioned it. If you could measure some tube diameters it would really help too. Thanks a lot for your help.

Luke D.

I did the plywood glue in when I first put the wide gear on. I cant say that I pancaked it but the plywood will give way a little at a time. The seat truss mod is WAY stronger than the original. At the stage you're at with no fabric to cut off I wouldn't fool around. I think the whole thing cost me about $1200 without fabric. The truss is cheap. The tig welding up here where I'm at was $100 an hour. Make no mistake...it takes skill to put the new piece in right. The cost of peace of mind. Maybe you are skilled yourself or specialized welding is more affordable where you are at. I'll get some pics of that as well when I get to the plane. B

Ha!, Thanks Larry.

I'll measure it up and get some close pictures for you.

I have seen drawings of what was supposed to be a "Swiss" muffler - Looked to be about 5 feet long - and yours didn't look like that.

Thanks Bernard,

EDMO

I think the MCMC4GH master would work better on the Avids with the updated pedals as it is shorter than the 4D master.  But you still have to deal with the rudder bar issue and slot the bottom of the master or move one mount tab on each of the rudder bars.

 

http://www.matcomfg.com/MasterCylinders-tp2-5.html

 

Link the Matco master cylinder page

 

The MC4G is the master cylinder I used when I remade my pedals to make the brakes work.  When I'm back in town (the end of May at this point), I'll take pictures of the new pedals/cylinders.  They work much better than the 'stock' Avid pedals with the MC5 cylinder.

Mark

I haven't bid on any aircraft stuff...not that I remember anyway. I bought the spinner from UHS in ontario. Around $200 for the kit if I remember. The plane came with the warp prop but I had to replace the blades after a bungee got cut by the safety cable. The rad is directly out of a VW rabbit. Cools it fine, even on long full power climbcout on hot day. I scavenge heat up through an inspection type hole in the floor. Not that great when it's real cold though. The thermostat doesn't let enough heat back. Thinking about redirecting the muff for the carb heat through a switchable door. The muffler is a custom built "swiss" made of stainless steel. Just google "swiss muffler" and you will get some views. I'm Bernard. But I'm not french so it's pronounced Bernerd. Cheers. B