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Activity Stream



  1. wypaul added a post in a topic leaking tanks   

    Take a look at phenol novolac epoxy at this site. It will make your tanks ethanol proof also. Give these folks a call they can help you to decide which way to go. One heads up with this stuff the mix is critical so follow the direction to a "T" I used it on my tanks before installing them. Most "slosh" type sealers will end up coming off in time. This is the same epoxy used to coat chemical tanks. Take some time doing some research be fore you decide. There is my 2 cents worth.

    Paul S in Wyoming

    http://www.caswellplating.com/restoration-aids/epoxy-gas-tank-sealer.html
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  2. akflyer added a post in a topic Developing Firewall Forward   



    Yes the 532 will bolt up to the 582, the mount is the same.


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  3. egp8111 added a post in a topic leaking tanks   

    I'm pretty sure it is Kreem giving the age and what I've been able to learn fron KF. The orginal coating looks to be in good shape, I suspect that I have some pin holes opened up over the years. If the orginal coating is intact wonder if you need to remove it all before you reslosh with the same material
    ?
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  4. egp8111 added a post in a topic leaking tanks   



  5. ChrisBolkan added a post in a topic leaking tanks   


    I have had great luck repairing un sloshed tanks by cutting holes in the tanks and patching the holes with structural adhesive, then riveting metal covers over the holes using polysulfide sealer on the covers. There are some photos on another thread somewhere on this site how I did my plane. Since your tanks have been sloshed, that adds a huge degree of complexity. It seems to me you need to find out what Kream is. Is it a 2 part epoxy? Is it a single part PVC coating? Or what? That's the first thing to find out and it shouldn't be too hard.

    Seems to me, if it is a single part sealer, you are better off than if it is a 2 part, because hopefully you can find out what the solvent for the single part sealer is and pour it in the tank and re-slosh. Hopefully the sealer will disolve and re-coat. if that can't be done, or if a 2 part was used, I think you are in for a rough ride.

    Wish I had better advice.

    Chris
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  6. egp8111 added a topic in Avidfoxflyers General Hangar   

    leaking tanks
    anyone have any good suggestions or recommendations on how to fix leaking 13 gal fiberglass KF tanks. They appeared to have been sealed with Kreem but after sitting for a month or so with fuel in the they have begun to leak. I was careful not to use any gas with alcohol in it but who knows. Anyone had and luck with the various sloshing compounds out there.

    thanks,

    EG
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  7. ChrisBolkan added a post in a topic No electrical output from my engine   

    Hi again Joey,

    I'm attaching the complete hard to find Rotax repair manual. I couldn't find a files location on this site, so I'll post it on this thread and someone in the know can move it where it belongs. The file is large and in 4 pieces. If you print out all four files and arrange the pages, you will have the complete manual. This is the best documentation availabel for Rotax two strokes if you do your own work.

    All the best,

    Chris Bolkan
    odd pages 1-83.pdf
    even pages 2-84 in reverse.pdf
    odd pages 85-end.pdf
    even pages 86-end in reverse.pdf
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  8. ChrisBolkan added a post in a topic No electrical output from my engine   


    Hi!
    Take great care not to move the ignition timing sensors if you replace the stator. Or make sure you can put them back in exactly the same place! And also be sure to lay blankets or towls under the engine so you don't pick up any metal filings on anything magnetic. Otherwise a pretty easy job to go in there and work. Also pay close attention to wire routing so nothing that rotates nicks the wires. I attached a couple pics so you can see what's inside there before digging in, incase you haven't been there before.
    Chris Bolkan






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  9. 4aplat added a post in a topic Vortex Generator   


    37 VG on each side

    before I used to land @ 100-110 km/h

    now it's 90-95 km/h (indicated speed, my speedo is false)
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  10. High Country added a post in a topic Converting original flapperon mixer to cable operated mixer   

    I'm still working on the new flap handle but will post pics as i make progress but in the meantime here are a couple to get you started.
    Note: the linkage going back to attach to the F7 (soon to be F7-A's) will be an "L" shape rather than the "T" shape that the Airdale had. I had to do this to accommodate for my narrower airframe to clear part of the bungee truss. Should work just the same though.

    [Edit] resize pics




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  11. High Country added a post in a topic Converting original flapperon mixer to cable operated mixer   

    More pictures of the rear cable mounts, i drilled the mount hole where i believe it goes however i made one on either side as well to give me the ability to adjust fore and aft as necessary.

    [Edit] resize pics




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  12. High Country added a topic in Technical tasks   

    Converting original flapperon mixer to cable operated mixer
    So after all of your help with information and photos I think I have gotten the conversion figured out for my Avid Flyer model B so I thought I would post up some pictures of my progress just in case anyone else was interested in attempting it themselves.

    ye old disclaimer, this is only my way of doing this conversion and if you decide to try it yourself and die its not my fault. there now you've been told. have fun and be safe.

    The main mixer unit is located under the left seat... Hopefully the pics can say the rest.




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  13. C5Engineer added a post in a topic No electrical output from my engine   

    Either way I'm going to have to pull the back of the motor off. My new stator and a Rotax puller will be here on Saturday. I am going to attempt to leave my RV reservoir hooked up and just lay the engine with the plugs out on my bench. If I can do the engine pull will go pretty quickly. My water was due to be flushed and changed anyways.

    Hoping it's a simple stator change and that will be the end of it.
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  14. High Country added a post in a topic Vortex Generator   


    Do you have any specific gain data from your V.G's... any pics?

    -Robert-
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  15. Av8r3400 added a post in a topic No electrical output from my engine   

    That's exactly what my guy said, too. (Check for some resistance between the leads.)
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  16. C5Engineer added a post in a topic No electrical output from my engine   

    Thanks Paul another guy at the airport said the same thing. Gonna have to give it a try.
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  17. Av8r_Sed added a post in a topic No electrical output from my engine   

    Check for continuity of the lighting coil between the yellow leads with an ohm meter after disconnecting from the voltage regulator and without the engine running. It should be pretty low, like 1 ohm. If it's open, the coil is likey toast.

    The lighting coils on Rotax motors don't work like an alternator and don't need any excitation in order to function.

    -- Paul S
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  18. 6320012s added a post in a topic No electrical output from my engine   

    I had trouble with my charging system a while back and found I had burned up my VR. While researching the problem I found that these charging systems need a constant load or they have trouble. As far as your symptoms, don't you have to have a working VR to excite the alternator?
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  19. Av8r3400 added a post in a topic No electrical output from my engine   

    Bummer, Joey.

    I don't know much on these, but I may be getting together tonight with someone who does. (He's at least extremely familiar with the 503 systems.) I'll pick his brain a bit...
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  20. C5Engineer added a topic in Avidfoxflyers General Hangar   

    No electrical output from my engine
    My charging system recently quit working so I started troubleshooting. I thought it was my Voltage Regulator but after more troubleshooting I realized that I was getting no AC voltage from the yellow wires coming off the lighting coil. Whats weird though is when I hook up the regulator and have the engine running I'm getting a small amount of voltage coming off the regulator output wire. It was giving me 4.8 volts at 3000rpm and 1.4 volts at idle. With the regulator unhooked and testing for AC volts right at the yellow wires with the engine running it was reading zero. Pretty weird. Anybody have any suggestions on anything left to check or troubleshoot before I pull my motor?

    Who's had their flywheel and balancer off? Anything cosmic about it? I already have a stator and puller on the way.
    • 14 replies
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  21. 4aplat added a post in a topic Avid MK IV baggage/Cargo area   



  22. herman pahls added a post in a topic Jabiru 2200 giant thread   

    Since Joey mentioned that I went back to a 582 from a Jabiru 2200, I will share some of what I have learned.
    I installed the Jabiru 2200 80 HP ( I paid $2500) knowing full well that the newer 85 HP Jabiru was preferable because of the increased torque that would allow more prop pitch for lower fuel burn at cruise and still have 582 climb performance on a light weight Avid or Kitfox.
    I could not allow myself to spend $15,000 for the 85 HP engine alone and still end up with a $15,000 Kitfox.
    In order for the 80 HP Jabiru to climb similar to a 582 I pitched the prop for 3300 RPM climb which gave high fuel burn at cruise.
    Compared to a 582, the Jabiru not having a radiator and gear box is a plus and so is the ultra smooth idle.
    I had zero cooling problems like the original owner because I used the Australian Skyfox cowl (looks like an Avid cowl) and ram air ducts.
    My Model 1 Kitfox was powered by a Rotax 532 A box and Ivoprop the first 14 years with excellent performance, handling and reliability.
    The 532 would climb to 12000 feet easily and the Jabiru struggled to get to 9000 feet.
    This would have improved with a HACman but the 532 did not have mixture control either.
    I could seriously erode a wooden Tennessee prop in an afternoon of flying off sand and gravel where as the IVO prop seems to hold up much better.
    The Sensenich composite ground adjust prop is a great option other than cost and more importantly the added weight.
    The Jabiru requires a bigger battery and V-8 sized battery cables to get started when cold.
    Once warmed up, the Jabiru starts instantly.
    My Model 1 Kitfox (484 pounds with 532) did not like the added 20 pounds over the 532.
    As mentioned on other threads these airplanes like rearword CG's and the Jabiru moved the CG forward and well within the CG range, but the backcountry flying characteristics suffered.
    The 532 did not require a rudder trim tab but the Jabiru did.
    I decided to go back to a 582 in anticipation of ending up with a 670 for even better climb and possibly better fuel burn at the same cruise speeds as a 582.
    So what have I learned.
    I cannot stand a 582 without a clutch so add 4 pounds and $500.
    The 532 with a snowmobile ignition idles much smoother than a 582.
    The Jabiru does not have gear box chatter at low RPM's
    The C-box weighs 9 pounds more than an A box and an IVO inflight adjust adds another 3-4 pounds so that now a 582 weighs the same as a Jabiru.
    I would like to go with a 670 when it has a track record and someone comes up with a readily available exhaust that fits inside the Kitfox cowl.
    The 670 engine will add 10 more pounds and the 670 exhaust another 4-5.
    Those of us with the older Avids and Kitfoxes with lower gross weights and shorter fuselages need to be careful about added weight.
    It is easy to turn these planes into single seaters especially with 912's and Subaru's
    I plan to go with a larger tail wheel and possible move the battery back to regain the former 532 flying qualities.
    There is not a clear cut solution.
    Herman
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  23. EDMO added a post in a topic Developing Firewall Forward   

    I have a 532 mount for sale - Does it fit the 582?
    Also, FWF 532 with instruments, nose tank and rad, round cowl.
    ED in MO
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  24. Bandit added a post in a topic Speedwing extensions   

    I should rephrase what I said. The fabric is ok, but it flutters some between the landing gear legs which causes some cracks in the polytone. The worst problem has nothing to do with the fabric, but after about 900hrs of 2 stroke residue blowing on the belly fabric, it is solid black with exhaust residue. I'm not real good at keeping it clean.
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  25. wildirishtime added a topic in Avidfoxflyers General Hangar   

    Big Rocks Long Props #5 Video Trailer
    Hi guys, I know many of us are in love with the Big Rocks series, so I
    thought I'd share this..... Volume 5 IS NOW AVAILABLE:

    We have the first batch of DVD's and excited to get them out to people!

    Here's where you can get it, also watch the trailer here too:

    http://www.crazedpilot.com/big-rocks-long-props-volume-5/


    Take care everyone fly safe!

    CRAZEDpilot
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