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  1. EDMO added a post in a topic Powder Coating   

    I can agree with Dusty on the epoxy. I used the same blasting and painting company that did our cranes for the Coast Guard boats. They told me that the epoxy they used would stick to the blasted steel better than a self-etching primer.
    I don't care if my white epoxy gets dull in time - it still protects against corrosion. It may get another coating when I spray my fabric.
    As far as the blasting goes, I have done a lot of it with a cabinet, and the thought of doing it myself in an open space even with all the protective clothing needed was more pain than I could bear to think of - not to mention all the electric shocks you get when blasting! The thought, and costs, of spraying epoxy at home didn't appeal to me either.
    I have heard others talk about hidden corrosion under powder coating, and I can verify that it does happen under a coating of anodizing on propeller parts.
    I know little about powder coatings, except that on large flat parts that are exposed to rock or other damage, the early powder coatings I saw would peal off in sheets once delamination started. I guess that tubing that was protected by a covering of fabric might be OK. But, I have powder coated furniture and a saw stand that show rust starting under the powder coating. Maybe the Chinese are doing it wrong?
    Some have said that powder coating was hard to remove or repair
    I guess some swear by it, and others swear at it!
    EdMO
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  2. Dusty added a post in a topic Powder Coating   

    If recoating,sandblasting(low pressure garnet is best) would be the only way to go.
    I would recommend getting it sprayed with an epoxy tinted to the final colour (industrial epoxy's are self priming and most contain corrosion inhibitors)
    A very light coat of 2 pack urethane over this in visible areas will keep it looking good as epoxy will eventually dull off

    If powder coating get a zinc base first as it stops the under creep corrosion like you will typically see on cheap outdoor furniture.
    Over here powder coating is the cheapest option.
    Powdercoating is harder to get right after a repair or modification and if it has to be removed will cost at least twice as much as any other coating to remove
    I own an industrial blasting and coating business here(DUSTY!)so have a bit of experience in this area.
    Always ask the question, how will this system hold up for the next 10-15 years and after that can it be economically refurbished in damaged areas.
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  3. RobS added a post in a topic Powder Coating   

    Ok - it sounds like the two of you went with epoxy and you'd both recommend the blasting and "new coating" to start. I know Larry recently had his Mangy Fox blasted and powder coated so hopefully he'll weigh in with his thoughts. And, in my reading, I have seen others express concern that powder coating can hide future corrosion.
     
    It seems that all the new kits come with a powder coat (I think you can still get them without it). Do you know if they pretreat their frames with something before they do the powder coating to further inhibit corrosion?
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  4. 1avidflyer added a post in a topic Powder Coating   

    One of the few negatives about powder coating I have heard is that rust can start and work it's way under the powdercoat and while it may look fine on the outside, it then may not be so good underneath.  I stripped and epoxy painted an Avid fuselage last summer, and I think for $500 I would probably let someone else do it.  Jim Chuk
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  5. EDMO added a post in a topic Powder Coating   

    I paid $1000 to have my welded fuselage blasted and 2 coats of epoxy painted on. Some say the powder coating is tougher, and I don't have any info on that. The main thing is to prevent future corrosion.
    I only had one option to get it painted quickly the same day after blasting.
    EdMO
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  6. RobS added a topic in Avidfoxflyers General Hangar   

    Powder Coating
    As we’re headed into the cooler weather season here in Maine, I’m starting to organize my thoughts about beginning the work on the MK IV kit I bought this spring. One of the items that I’m still undecided on is whether it’s worth having the airframe bead-blasted and powder coated before I do anything else.
     
    Currently the frame is in various “states†of paint and it looks like some of it was done with a rattle can. Going with the powder coating would sure make everything uniform as I begin the tasks of finishing off the fuselage and then head to the covering phase. I could just paint over everything to get the uniform look, but am wondering if cleaning the metal completely and starting fresh is a better way to go. The kit has been sitting for a long time, but there are no visible signs of corrosion (maybe a few insignificant spots that could be cleaned up and painted). I have a rough estimate of $500 for the complete powder coat job, so, while I'd like to save that money, in my mind it's not a deal breaker as I want to make sure as I start this project I'm doing things right.
     
    So I’m looking to see what some of you have done. Is powder coating the way to go or is it a waste of my money? Thanks in advance for your opinions and advice.
    • 13 replies
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  7. Av8r3400 added a post in a topic Classic IV Restoration   

    Progress is still happening. I've been working on wiring and slowly things are coming alive. Nothing to photograph, though. Wiring is definitely a big project when you are trying to install one of these glass boxes. I just need to keep doing a little more every day and it will come together.

    I caught Dave staring at my wing tips the other day with that "look" on his face again. So I'm sure that one of these days I'll stop over and he'll have redone them...
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  8. dholly added a post in a topic Handheld radio issues   

    I needed mic muffs on Clark H10 headsets in my KF3/582 with King Kx99 handheld and Flightcom portable intercom. They are a pretty effective and inexpensive solution, assuming it's not electrical noise of course.
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  9. RobS added a post in a topic latest air vehicle (not really)   

    Very interesting and it would make a great hedge trimmer too!
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  10. dholly added a post in a topic Need ID assistance   

    Welcome John, here is the thread Jim mentioned: http://www.avidfoxflyers.com/index.php?/topic/931-model-airframe-differences/
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  11. EDMO added a post in a topic Choice of radiators on 582   

    If you post your needs on here, there is a good chance someone has one, or knows where to get it.
    EdMO
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  12. 1avidflyer added a post in a topic Need ID assistance   

    Can't see the pics well enough, but the A model is only 36" wide at the shoulders, later models are 39 1//2",  and the door bottom is different than later models.  The bottom tube of the door opening is about 18" or so front to back, and then in the back another tube angels up at about 45 degrees.  Later models are flat on the bottom about 24" and then go more or less straight up from there.  Looks like it has the rounded MK IV rudder, is there a built in trim tab on the elevator?  MK IVs came that way.  We need more clues.....   Somewhere on this site is a post from Steve Winder telling about various changes you can look for to maybe tell what model it is.  I think that post was copied over from the Yahoo Groups site maybe.   Was the plane ever registered and issued an N #?  Jim Chuk
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  13. 1avidflyer added a topic in "other aircraft your working on"   

    latest air vehicle (not really)
    Ran across this on utube.  Be a while before he will be doing any crosscountries, but kind of interesting anyway.  Enjoy!  Jim Chuk   https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t5JgnMJzCtQ&feature=youtu.be
    • 7 replies
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  14. EDMO added a post in a topic Need ID assistance   

    John,
    did you look closely for traces of an N-number - maybe just traces of glue? That, and I think, the owners name, and plane info, even if registration has expired and maybe if been cancelled, are on the FAA site.
    I am a Kitfox builder, but I think Avids also have serial numbers stamped somewhere on the fuselage, probably on a lower crosstube, and that might tell you what model it was.
    Maybe the Avid drivers can help you more than this model info.
    You will need some kind of documentation of the plane being amateur-built to register it, and you should have the builder's logbook, photos, and name.
    Nobody is dumb - they just don't have the facts they need at the time.
    Age is no concern either - Advice from both my elders and juniors is welcomed, and some of each have lots more experience with these little birds than me.
    EdMO
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  15. ChrisBolkan added a post in a topic Rotax 582 Bings spitting fuel - carb bowl venting problem?   

    I've had a similar issue a couple of times after removing the float bowl and putting it back on. In my case the little pins got caught behind instead of on top of the floats or visa versa. Anyway would run but puke gas. Removing and reinstalling float bowl without gas in the bowl fixed the problem. It was only when I tried to reinstall the float bowl when full of gas that the setup got misaligned and puked gas. probably not your problem, but real easy to remove float bowls, empty the gas out and reinstall them. that will assure that the pins are on the right side of the needle setup.
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  16. 1wise1 added a topic in Avidfoxflyers General Hangar   

    Need ID assistance
    At my age saying you are dumb is not easy but here goes..... I need help identifying my FLYER.
    She's a barn find came with good builders logs and pictures but no data plate or C. of A.   I think I have a Model "A" with a "C" tail.  It has a Rotax 532 (Bombardier embossed on head) hung on a very well done mount but somebody got sloppy near the ground and there is broken fuselage tubing at the tail wheel spring.   I've attached a couple of pictures and would appreciate the group's wisdom.  It came to me by way of Kansas City, through Saint Louis and Collinsville, Illinois. If anybody recognizes it let me know.
     
    John


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  17. egp8111 added a post in a topic Handheld radio issues   

    Engine is a 912. With. Muffler
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  18. 1wise1 added a post in a topic Choice of radiators on 582   

    FYI  I was in need of a couple of things and Highwing LLC has closed.   Their website refers people to
    Mark at AeroBuilders in Caldwell, Idaho. 208-454-4158
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  19. EDMO added a post in a topic Handheld radio issues   

    How about a Swiss muffler? Is that possible with a 2-stroke? I think they must do it in parts of Europe?
    Or is it prop noise too?
    EdMO
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  20. egp8111 added a post in a topic Handheld radio issues   

    I've used the settings in the manual for headset use. The internal mic is not hot when the headset is plugged in. I've tried it with and without a flightcom intercom, doesn't seem to make any difference. It must be ambient noise, I can throttle back and people can hear me much better. I can really hear the background noise in the headset when I key the mic.
    I've ordered a leather mic muff , I try that first then go to a high noise intercom.
    Thanks
    Skip
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  21. EDMO added a post in a topic Yamaha RX1 gear box adaptor   

    Why would you put more money into a flying engine with dual ignition, if the compression and oil pressure is OK
    Maybe to replace some parts with lighter ones? Even a complete overhaul is extremely cheap compared to Rotax or Lyco/Conti-saurus parts.
    EdMO
    I just found out that the Soob complete with redrive and IVO prop sold for $1425.
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  22. Luked added a post in a topic Yamaha RX1 gear box adaptor   

    No argument. The Subaru is a good engine. Many have had success with them. This is just another option. I think it's a little more comparable to the Rotax in the power to weight category. I have to admit it sounds a little too good to be true though. Read this thread for some more info:
     
    http://www.rotaryforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=16100
     
    Sounds like most guys just buy a used snowmobile (sorry, that's what we call them in Oregon), and take out the motor. Early in that thread they say they can be had for about $3000, but that was in 2008. Not sure what they cost now. Maybe $3000 + $1500 + $2500 = $7000 ?? That's just using your number on the gearbox. I don't really know what they cost.
     
    Also, if I bought a used Subaru for $2500, I know I'd be putting quite a bit more money into it before I was comfortable flying behind it. Like I said, nothing against the Subaru. Just another option.
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  23. 1avidflyer added a post in a topic Rotax 582 Bings spitting fuel - carb bowl venting problem?   

    I don't know how much pressure the Bing 54 carbs can take before the float needle valve is overpowered, but I know it doesn't take a whole lot on a Bing 64 or 94.  Give the tech guy at Bing carbs a call.  He was very helpful when I had a problem with flooding.  By the way, he ended up being right, even though I kind of  didn't believe it at first.  Wonder how big your float needle jet is, they make 3 different sizes, from 1 to 3 MM for the 64 and 94 carbs.  Largest one is for gravity feed, I imagine they have different sizes for the 54 also.  Bigger jet will take less pressure before it will leak.  Just a few random thoughts that may or may not help... Jim Chuk
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  24. EDMO added a post in a topic Yamaha RX1 gear box adaptor   

    Has anyone ever gone to a Yamaha dealer and found out the cost for this engine?
    Rpms? HP / Torque? Water cooled?
    $1500 for adapter, plus how much for gearbox ($2500?) plus engine
    I posted an ad for a Soob EA-81 with reduction drive and prop for $2500 OBO, and no one bought it that I know of.
    I know its a little heavier than the 912, but guess the price don't matter to most working folks.
    EdMO
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  25. akflyer added a post in a topic Rotax 582 Bings spitting fuel - carb bowl venting problem?   

    I can't think of anything that would follow with your issues.  It just does not make sense to me.  What is the difference between a couple holes in the tube versus the open tube?  To put the holes in my tube I heated a pin and melted them in there.  There should be 4 holes.  Top and Bottom and on each side in a cross pattern at the bottom of the tube to drain any liquid that should get in there.  The other thing you can do is look for an Arctic Sparrow Mixture control that someone may be selling.  I love mine.
     

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