Based in Rangiora, I'm not hard to find Just ask for the owner of kitfox JFA ! There is a YouTube video of one of our trips to D'Urville D'Urville island landing https://YouTube.be/GJeUOf9Mgz0 I'm currently flying borrowed KIV and very soon CGT,with the rebuild of JFA progressing slowly Looking forward to catching up
The sounds are a great place to fly. I have landed at Grevill Harbour a few times . Calm weather only, Got severely spanked a few years ago in a southerly. An avid amphibian would be so much fun. 3 friends are building restoring amphibs so we may catch up sometime.
Perhaps ground run with the cap off and observe. May be expanding by foaming . If so change to a different oil as some have better anti foam. Bubbling is bad but as suggested oil may possobly be sucked by the crank seals rather than case pressure blowing.
The brake and rudder pedal assembly is completly different with the "E" pedals,also the brake cylinders are not mounted directly to the torque tubes. This isn't definitive as it is an easy swap The tall rudder and large hinge gap due to the rod end hinges is the obvious give away for a1200 but not such an easy job. Have fun
Yes you need to install a richer setup. The hacman by nature slightly leans from standard, even when off. This amount varies with the size of the reference port. I will have to hunt out the data from my last install which may take a few days. The needles definatly need changing from 11g2 to 11k2 to eliminate a lean spot just off mid range. These are 503 tc needles. A hacman type device is one of the best mods that can be done to a 582 but vigilance is required at all times and especially at part throttle decent
The Grey top has a single action thermostat the blue a two way ,a much better system but the single action seems to work ok(not as cold here).I am assuming your Grey has a thermostat? If it still isn't holding heat ,the steam vent at the front of the head maybe be bypassing too much coolant. Solder this up and drill a small hole. This is usually the easiest fix.
Contact an experienced rotax repair shop and get an estimate for a rebuild and go from there. I personally have no preference for blue over silver as the later silver tops had the same crank as the blue ,the waterpump seals don't give trouble if using dexcool. These seals can be retrofitted with ceramic seal if you feel the need. The bluetop cooling is better able to tolerate poor throttle handling. Cheers Dusty
At the risk of a thread drift, the jabaru style floats look like a possible "cure" to another Rotax Bing problem of the guide pins coming loose. This is a scary problem in early models as the bottom of the pin hole arn't blind! The latest incident here saw a plane returning to its hanger trailing fuel, a bit of a close go!
I have looked into using these but the price was a deal breaker. They are definatly heavier which I don't think would be an issue if they are set up using The Rotax procedure of a syringe through the choke area. The float lever can be successfully tweaked to get the level right. Peace of mind I guess, but I check mine within every 25 hrs and have had only a few replacement due to variances. If the drip trays arn't used,checking is a very simple procedure of weighing or checking against scribed witness marks inside the float bowl so well worth the effort.