lv2plyguitar

Contributing Member
 View profile  See their activity

  • Content count

    664

  • Joined

  • Last visited


Posts posted by lv2plyguitar

  1. Posted

    I guess i dont understand.  You have tubes that run inside the float?  In my instructions I dont see anything that deals with running tubes.  Do you have a picture that would be helpful?   I did not realize you live in Alaska.  If you get a chance come to Big Lake and fly hours off my phase 1.  I provide the gas.

     

    Thanks.

     

     

    On mine the vent hose runs to the top of the float on the inside

    and is held up there with a wire loop glassed into the float.

    Mine are the Avid floats

  2. Posted

    There is a drain hole and a vent hole on the bottom back of my pontoons (see attached picture).  I have the plug that screws into the drain but not sure what happens with vent hole. There is also a vent hold on the side of each pontoon.   What happens if my plane sits in the water over night?  (see attached diagram)

     

    Thanks  

    post-526-0-13693900-1364317461_thumb.jpg

    Inst..pdf

  4. Posted · Edited by AVID STOL HH

    The vent was not isolated by sealing the main neck of the gas cap. Now it is. The vent only allows air in and not out therefore if a vacuum is created on the wing the fuel cannot come out. Because of the dihedral of the wing I am loosing fuel capacity because I cannot fill all the way. I am loosing about 6 gals capacity overall.

  5. Posted

    Well found out why fuel was pouring onto the wings. The plastic self vented caps have a gasket ring that is supposed to seal to the filler neck when screwed on, however my filler neck was not protruding above the wing surface therefore when the cap was screwed down the gasket did not even make contact with surface of the wing. Fuel was being sucked out of tank through through the threads of the gas cap. I doubled the gasket to make sure a seal was taking place on the surface of the wing. Lo and behold after flight testing no leakage and lots more gas in the tank after a trip.

    When I relocate the filler neck to the outboard side of the tank I will put the ram air on at that time. For now this will get me through phase 1.

    Thanks for all the input.

  6. Posted

    I know of one that was in Soldotna, but I dont know of any in the valley. Have you contacted Arctic Air to see if one of their instructors would be willing?

    There was a guy on here a couple of years ago that had a kitfox V that was having issues with getting instructors in the area up there and it was hit and miss for him to get one to fly with him on his schedule. Hopefully you will get some other hits on this.

    I thought about pursuing the instructor thing myself a few times, but the investment in getting the ticket would never be recouped, it would be a "out of the goodness of my heart" to train others once in a blue moon type of thing.. I hope you find someone soon!

    :BC:/>

    I have one but he is in Anchorage. Not very cost effective. I got to get this phase 1 flown off. Trying to get licensed before July.

    thanks

  7. Posted · Edited by Avid Heavy

    I am looking for an instructor in Wasilla that will get in my AVID after phase 1 for training for the sport pilots license. Do any of you know of a small instructor that is willing to train me in an AVID that lives in or very near Palmer or Wasilla?

    Thanks

  9. Posted

    The plastic cap wont rain fuel down unless the vent tube glue joint breaks loose. I took Randy's advice and reglued my tubes and now only tighten the cap until it is good and snug, but not till it ratchets. He fould that by doing this it does not break the glue joint every 5-6 times you fill it up.

    The best fix is probably to get the caps that Jim listed and glass those onto the TOP side of the tank and then have the solid metal cap on it. I never had an issue with the kitfox metal caps leaking unless the cork gasket material got worn out, but that is easy to inspect and replace.

    :BC:/>

    THanks Leni. The AVID Awaits your flying it. Randy has put about 4 hrs on it.

  10. Posted

    Just looking my Wag-Aero catalog at gas caps and necks and they show (on page 3) and aluminum weldable neck that is 2/14" in diameter. If one was to use a hole saw, maybe 2 3/16" size, you could slip this neck into the hole. Might have to file a bit, but usually the hole saws cut just a bit oversize. You could then perhaps epoxy or fiberglass the neck into place. Not saying this is the best way, but it's the one that comes to my mind right now. The price for the neck # E-448-000 was $8.40 the cap # E-482-000 was $6.95 Take care, Jim Chuk

    Just reread you post and as far as fixing the leaking fuel caps, when you install the new caps, remove the old ones and patch the hole with fiberglass. Just thought of another thing. Do you have plastic caps? Wasn't Leni saying his caps leak fuel also. He had the plastic caps. The caps I mentioned from Wag-Aero are the steel ones and look like what my MK IVs have. No problem with fuel leakiing out of them.

    What type of gas caps are on the kitfox. Can you post a picture? I am tired of this fuel issue and want to resolve it. Nothing worse than raining gas on the forest below that costs 4 bucks a gallon.

  11. Posted · Edited by Avid Heavy

    Very interesting and Boo Boo indeed.

    Curious.....How are the fuel lines from the tanks routed? The outlets on the bottom of the tanks are opposite the filler caps on top. Doesn't this place the fuel outlets about 2 feet away from the fuselage? How has the fuel line routing been solved?

    ChrisB

    Its weird because the drains and fuel line are in the right place but the filler necks are not. Could be that the tanks came that way so the guy that built the wings had no choice and didnt know better.

    Just looked at the builders log and the picture of the wing tanks. Sure enough the drain and fuel supply is on the same side as the filler neck.

  12. Posted

    Wonder if you couldn't fiberglass new caps in where they should be, and remove the old ones? Might not have to do a lot of fabric patching, and it should all be over a solid surface. (the tank) Take care, Jim Chuk

    Was just talking to brett at airdale and he was thinking the same thing, however he was wondering if I needed to get to the back side of the cap to do that which is impossible because it is inside the tank. Maybe you can help me research a little. However, I still need to solve my leaking fuel problem.

  13. Posted

    I have learned that the previous partial builder of my AVID installed the wing tanks on the wrong side therefore placing the fill cap about 4" away from the lexan. Also this causes me to lose about 2 gallons of fuel per tank because I cant fill them all the way. Not so much worried about the little less fuel but I have fuel spilling out during flight. I have the vented gas caps. What is a permanent fix to keep fuel in the tank and off the wings. It is very critical because the fill cap is so close to the lexan.

    Definately when I get more time I am going to remove the fiberglass tanks and install plastic or aluminum if available. But for now I just want to keep her flying.

    Does airdale or any supplier sell a gas cap that fixes that problem?

    Thanks for input.

  14. Posted

    I use synthetic 85/140 that I got from the local "men's" store. (Like a Farm And Fleet) The synthetic doesn't get real stiff in cold temps. Take care, Jim Chuk

    Would you say that a suzuki 80 - 90w is okay?

  17. Posted

    The pipe for the sled runs over the top of the engine as the cylinders are layed back at and angle. The exhaust and intake are on the same side too. I have a couple of stock exhaust systems for the 800 so that is why I was going to use a stock system on the test stand to set the base line, then cut and twist the exhaust around to try and stuff it inside the cowling without loosing any RPM from the baseline runs. I think it can be done but I may have to make a new cowling ala super cub style. Aluminum is easy to work with if I have to go that route.

    In order to keep the thrust line and the cowling height that I have now (avid cowlings are lower and give much better visibility over the nose) I will have to mount the engine inverted just as it is now in the Avid. I dont see this being an issue sans a few things I will have to deal with on the power valve cables so they dont get gummed up with the old oil. I think I have a good plan for those, and it may even be a non issue, but I do have a plan if they do start sticking. I really wish I had a dyno and a good 2 stroke exhaust guy close to play with this. I want the stock super smooth, linear power that this engine exhibits in the sled. It is like an electric motor. super smooth and linear with no hard hitting "pipey" spots.

    :BC:/>

    This will be a great engine for vertical flight. :o

    1 person likes this

  18. Posted

    Have any of you seen issues with the bonding of the ribs to the front spar? I noticed an AD from Austrailia which was suggesting that the bond was not working well.

    My concern is, even though my AVID has never flown, the wing was put together in 1995. Do any of you see issues with the integrity of the wing being compromised due to the age of the structural glue.

  19. Posted · Edited by Avid Heavy

    Just wondering if any of you have a reading on your airspeed indicator of like 15 when static while running the engine up to 6000. My tube is located by the strut per the plans.

  22. Posted · Edited by Avid Heavy

    How did he manage the 25 hour? Thought it should be 40? Has this been flown before?

    Was this the same DAR he had problems with?

    Looks like you've got some weather coming - Low pressure storm headed your way?

    Is the Wasilla runway still gravel? Bob Hoover wouldnt land his Shrike on it when he did the show.

    Ed

    After several discussions with the FAA they put the DAR on the right track. It basically hurt his feelings that he could not treat my plane like it was going to be certified so he just quickly went over it and got out of dodge. All I did was ask for the 25 hour and I explained to him the prop and the 582 are proven components. Lo and behold he went for it.

    It is a good idea to always have the FAA contact the DAR before the inspection to remind them how far the end of their nose is.

    Did not need to change or repair anything. The only recommendation was to secure the safety cables on the bungee gear so they could not move. He also didn't like the bungee touching the flap handle bolt.