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I have a set, but I'm not sure what I'm going to do with them. Thinking maybe when I rebuild the wings I would sell them togeather. Might let them go sooner though????/>/> Take care, Jim Chuk

Please keep me in mind if you decide you can part with them... (and I can afford what you want).

Thanks

Stephen

Thanks for the answers!

I am now the proud owner of a 1994 Kitfox IV-1200 powered by a 582 Rotax with Injection (100:1 so premixing still necessary).

Flies awesome, climbs awesome and slips like a Banshee. The first flight yesterday was the most fun I have had in awhile.

Funner then my buddies Citabria or his J3. The STOL capabilities with two pilots is actually the best I have flown so far.

We throttled up on the numbers and were way off the ground by the touchdown markers with a slight tailwind.

I got all the logs for everything and they are incredibly comprehensive, nothing has been left out.

The engine is original and has been rebuilt every 300 hours by the manufacturer with no issues.

Joey - Like you, I figure anything will be better than my old cushions! What firmness and thickness did you use? The following is copied from one of the links in the original post:

After I read that the green (firm) Conform foam is really hard in cool Wx, I changed my layers for what I hope will be a more appropriate and comfortable mix here in the northeast. Mostly what I really want though is the extremely high energy-absorption characteristics to help protect my ass (back, really) from a hard landing. When you move beyond the comfort studies, energy impact studies have shown Conform Foam dramatically reduces the likelihood of back injury if used in adequate thicknesses. At 2" thick, in the firmness layering I used, it is not quite optimum for my weight. Never the less, these cushions will offer significantly better safety characteristics than I had so $50 well spent IMHO!

Nice pictures of Dean's sail boat Joey, and you probably know about his very latest. He had the 40 horse cont. from his first airplane (T. Craft) overhauled and started building an airplane to fit it. Started cutting tubing 1/25/12 Here's some of the progress pics. --If I can figure out how to do it.

Is this Mr. Roy? Your attachment didn't work. Email me at kc135joey at hotmail dot com and I can post them for you. I have heard about that plane and I am curious to see the wing.

Great feeling to see it fly!! Enjoy!!!!

I just love the way this outfit operates. Over on BCP as you know Leni some of these guys are paying $15,000 for propellors, What in the heck do a pair of 36" AKbushwheels cost? The whole maryann I mean, like with double puck Clevelands and new wheels? Or how about $30,000 to put IO-520 cylinders on your O-470. Sheesh, you add all that up and pretty soon you're talking about real money!

I don't think you'll have any problem getting #450 prop yank out of 140hp. I've seen number just under #500 for a Continental O-200 with a warp drive.

Looking forward to seeing this thing go

Dan

I have a set, but I'm not sure what I'm going to do with them. Thinking maybe when I rebuild the wings I would sell them togeather. Might let them go sooner though? Take care, Jim Chuk

I'm still interested in finding a set of used but straight flaperons for an "Avid C HH" if anyone has or knows of a set around.

I can't find any pics of the MKIV FWF here at the house but I can take some of it if needed when I get out to the hangar (and if someone else doesn't send some first).

Nice pictures of Dean's sail boat Joey, and you probably know about his very latest. He had the 40 horse cont. from his first airplane (T. Craft) overhauled and started building an airplane to fit it. Started cutting tubing 1/25/12 Here's some of the progress pics. --If I can figure out how to do it.

Hi Leni, in a recent post of yours, you said you use Mecury Power Tune every 100 hrs. to get rid of the carbon in your engine. Can you tell me more about that product, and how you use it. My hour meter is showing 51 hrs. since I rebuilt the 582 last Sept. and I'm thinking about Rotax's saying to decarbon every 50 hrs. Thanks, Jim Chuk

I think Rotax says to decarbon every 150 hrs. It really depends on the amount of running you do in a short time and type of oil used. Sounds like the Mercury power tune is a nice alternative.

Norm

Very nice Doug! I redid the pilots half of my sling seat with two layers of the Conform foam. Just glued it to the old yellow stuff and sewed it back up. Made a night and day difference from the 20 year old coach cushion foam was in there. Figured the weight penalty wasn't worth doing the entire seat since I rarely fly with a passenger and when I do it's not for very long. The only negative I've had with it is when it's cold that foam is hard as a rock until it takes the shape of your butt.

I'm running Royal Purple 85-140 as well. It's a bit spendy but you can do two changes with with one quart...that's 200 hrs of flying. No reason to run cheap stuff in something that your butt is attached to!

I'm very impressed with the shaping and finish you've achieved so far. Now you've got a sideline business to fall back on. Are you going to sew the cushions yourself too?

I use Amsoil 80W-90 Synthetic Gear Lube. Works fine. I don't have any experience with the Suzuki product.

I use synthetic 85/140 that I got from the local "men's" store. (Like a Farm And Fleet) The synthetic doesn't get real stiff in cold temps. Take care, Jim Chuk

Would you say that a suzuki 80 - 90w is okay?

I use synthetic 85/140 that I got from the local "men's" store. (Like a Farm And Fleet) The synthetic doesn't get real stiff in cold temps. Take care, Jim Chuk

Do any of you have a recommendation for 90 w oil for the c drive that is readily available.

THanks

Do any of you have a recommendation for 90 w oil for the c drive that is readily available.

THanks

I'm still interested in finding a set of used but straight flaperons for an "Avid C HH" if anyone has or knows of a set around.

Hi Jim - like you I am blessed with a very patient wife, although, she did kick me out of the Living room.

I was able to try the die grinder on one seat cushion last night and was amazed at how easy it was to sculpt the foam. You would think a rough grit would grab the foam, and it does to some extent if you don't keep the correct angle to the work piece, but it works really well.

Then I wrapped a finer grit sandpaper around a longer scrap piece of T&G flooring for a final smoothing by hand. Easy, peasy and you can see the result below. Spent only about 10min. on this phase, with some waiting for the compressor to cycle. So far, so good!

Larry - if you count up those extra long, square foam pieces, I have (3) 2-1/2" X 2" X 37" pieces which is enough to do side bolsters on both seat and back cushions, and (1) 1-1/2" X 2" X 37" that is destined for a lumbar support. At least, that is the plan. If I play my cards right and cut straight, that last piece should be enough to make (2) 3/4" X 4" X 18" lumbar supports which should be just about perfect. The Oregon Aero site says that a 3/4" thick lumbar support is sufficient to naturally roll your hips forward into the proper spinal position, but any thicker becomes noticeable and intrusive. Remember, it's really not there for any kind of 'support', it's there to roll the hips forward. There is a small lumbar hump molded into the seat pan which should come through a thin back cushion, and there will also be a thin 1/8"-1/4" layer of non-technical foam over the cushions I am making now which is necessary to form the pleating in the center. Hoping that works out good.

Instead of leaving them straight alone their entire length, I plan on sculpting the seat cushion bolsters to the outside edge toward the front, idea being that it should help prevent your legs from being forced together in the rather uncomfortable 'nutcrusher' position.

Pretty good use of materials so far, here's the total waste after cutting the seat and back cushions.

Just wondering Doug, was the wife out of town when you turned the kitchen into your workshop? LOL. Looks like you are going to have some nice seats when you get done. I may copy some of your ideas. Take care, Jim Chuk

I would highly suggest sculpting in some lumbar support...

I would highly suggest sculpting in some lumbar support...

damn, that is going to be one comfy seat! A friend had the seats in her Cherokee six done and WOW did that make a difference!

I get it at the local motor sports shop. You just fire the engine up and spray it into the carbs till it starts choking down. Let it recover, then hit it again till the black crap stops running out the exhaust. WARNING, you will be blowing some SERIOUS black crap out the exhaust so dont do this over your nice clean paved driveway. This works wonders on old boat motors or any two stroke engine. I just picked up another can before I left so I should do a little demo video when I get home.

Make sure you run the engine for a bit (5-10 minutes) after you get done cleaning it to make sure you get all the solvents and crap (power tune) out of the engine and get it fully coated in good clean oil again.

I just googled it and you can get it at West Marine along with a host of other online shops... shipping may be an issue as its in an aerosol can.

Hi Leni, in a recent post of yours, you said you use Mecury Power Tune every 100 hrs. to get rid of the carbon in your engine. Can you tell me more about that product, and how you use it. My hour meter is showing 51 hrs. since I rebuilt the 582 last Sept. and I'm thinking about Rotax's saying to decarbon every 50 hrs. Thanks, Jim Chuk

So guys, I know we briefly discussed Rotax 2-strokes. I've done alot of independent research also but I want to hear from the guys who really know the 582 and its innerworkings.

Here's the skinny I'm looking for:

Oil injection systems? Love them? Hate them? Why? Is it easily removed? How do you determine how much oil is actually flowing (40:1, 50:1, 100:1)?

I personally feel that mixing your own gas/oil is better, one less system to fail and less weight. As long as you don't forget

Spark plug changes every 25-50 hours? Best plugs? Gapping?

I've read 25 hours is normal for the spark plug changes.

What should compression be?

Any good fuel additives to keep these things clean? Zmax, Amsoil, Redline?

Anything else to look for? Clean on a regular basis? Oil/Lube?

Are these Bing Altitude Compensating Carbs worth a damn?

I hear they tend to have air leaks, haha

I like the oil injection. As Chris stated, it gives you around 70:1 at an idle, then at WOT its 50:1. I know Joey has been running his using Amsoil at 100:1 with good results, but I am old school and would rather spend money on plugs and oil and use lots of it as it does more than just lube pistons. I like my bearings wet, but thats just me.

I have been getting right around 25 hrs before the plugs need to be changed. I run my oil mixture SLIGHTLY rich just because of the temps I fly and what it can do to EGT's.. again, a little extra oil is alot better than hanging upside down in a tree in the middle of nowhere.

No additives used here. The Citgo oil I have been using burns nice and clean and I have not needed to tear one down yet due to sticking rings. Every 100 hrs or so I use Mercury Power Tune on it and it cleans out all the carbon in the engine! I had one that was getting gunked up pretty bad (was using penzoil air cooled oil) so we ran a can of the power tuned through it. Then we tore it down and could not find one spec of carbon in the engine anywhere!

Spark plugs.. USE NGK 3691 plugs. That is the BR8ES SOLID CAP plugs. I just picked up a set of iriduim plugs I will be trying next week to see how long they last. Gap is .016-.018 but my engine likes it closer to the .016 side. I set them at a tight .016 and they are fine till the next change.

Keep an eye on the RV oil bottle to make sure your water pump seals are holding well (only on the grey head unless it has had the ceramic seal upgrade).

I HATE auto compensating carbs. They SUCK on snowmachines and they suck even worse on airplanes. You can make a mixture control like Chris made and shows directions for, or get the same basic setup from Greensky.

So guys, I know we briefly discussed Rotax 2-strokes. I've done alot of independent research also but I want to hear from the guys who really know the 582 and its innerworkings.

Here's the skinny I'm looking for:

OK, My opinions which with $5.00 might get you coffee at Starbucks

Oil injection systems? Love them? Hate them? Why? Is it easily removed? How do you determine how much oil is actually flowing (40:1, 50:1, 100:1)?

Love it. More reliable than the time you forget to add oil and have a seizure. When properly setup it will reduce oil at idle reducing dirty plugs and combustion chambers at teardwown for maintenance.

I personally feel that mixing your own gas/oil is better, one less system to fail and less weight. As long as you don't forget

Spark plug changes every 25-50 hours?

When engine starting is not as good and idle is not as smooth. Depending on gas used, within the time frame you stated. Avgas will cause poor starting and poor idle much sooner than car gas. Best plugs? NGK SOLID TOPS. Make sure you use solid tops! Gapping? Factory Rotax recommended gap. I think around 0.020. Reason so narrow is spark has to jump two gaps.

I've read 25 hours is normal for the spark plug changes.

What should compression be? Never cared or measured. Just ran to 600 hours (2Xtbo), tearing down and inspecting evey 150 or so hours.

Any good fuel additives to keep these things clean? Zmax, Amsoil, Redline? Never used additives.

Anything else to look for? Clean on a regular basis? Oil/Lube? Every 150 or so hours I took my engine apart to check for sticking ring below the dyke ring gap and unstick if stuck, and to clean the combustion chamber and look for scratches on the cylinder walls and piston skirts indicative of seizure. Regularly inspect carb mounting boots and replace at first sign of cracking. If you are using Bing polyurethane fuel line, replace when it turns from blue to green. If it's brown and you have waited too long. There's probably a million other things I am not thinking of.

Are these Bing Altitude Compensating Carbs worth a damn? I do not think the bings used on the two strokes are cnstant depression carbs (somewhat altitude compensating) like are used on the 912. I designed a mixture control for mine.

I hear they tend to have air leaks, haha

They work fine. I've heard that air leak stuff too but all the factory support in terms of jetting is worth its weight in gold compared to the performance increase you might get with another carb, but no jetting support!

ChrisB