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  1. Deejayel

    Posted · Edited by Deejayel

    Nice Thanks. 3003...

     

    In the meantime to get me running again, Akflyer: "Permatex aviation Form a Gasket Sealant 80017(3D) or 80019(3H)

  2. SkyPirate

    Posted · Edited by akflyer

    Hey Ed, do you need a spare fat fuselage?
    The price is right if you want it :) minus main wheels and tail wheel oh and the seats, sorry about the inverted photo, i dont know why but my phone does that for some reason.

     

     

    *Edit... I edited the post to flip the picture for ya.

    post-2-0-39142400-1382312418_thumb.jpg

  3. SkyPirate

    Posted

    If you can , use 3003 aluminum it is less suseptible to oxidation from exposure to fuel, some use 6061 like zenith aircraft does for the "D" tanks in the leading edge of the wing, 3003 you can make a fuel tank and not weld it at all, using tank sealer at folded joints and compression fittings and bolt on filler tube, advantage no welded seams to crack, but 3003 can be welded also and take vibration and flexing better then 6061

  4. Deejayel

    Posted · Edited by Deejayel

    Yep. That paste didnt work. So I will find the permatex. I did get 2 hours in today with my cub buddy before I started to get queasy with the fuel smell.

    I use the clear vent line as a fuel level gauge for the header tank. If the line is empty, I had better find some gas.post-544-0-97865900-1382308620_thumb.jpg

    Now that I have a spare tank, I'm going to carry it to some fab shops and see if an aluminum one can be made easily(read inexpensive)

  5. EDMO

    Posted

    Leni,

    I copied from the Kitfox catalog, Permatex 9AR, part # 64195 - and my auto parts store could not find it in their catalog. Wonder if there is a comparable Loctite product?

    EDMO

  6. EDMO

    Posted · Edited by Ed In Missouri

    When I got my Magnum builder manual, there was an insert on "Aerobatics"? for the Aerocet included - Would this be of interest to anyone? Only the computer gods know how I am supposed to put in online? :huh: I would mail a copy to someone who would do that - if it is wanted by members.

    EDMO

  7. akflyer

    Posted

    I was taught to point the nose DOWN... ;)

     

    If you want to loose altitude in these quickly, just pull the nose up and slow them down.  I can loose altitude quicker at 42 MPH than I can redlined.  I did a stall series last time home on floats.  45 MPH power off had me dropping at 1700+ FPM, 65MPH had me dropping at 650-700 FPM.  At any rate, you dont want to loose an engine when on floats, it glides like a greased anvil :lmao:

     

    :BC:

  8. akflyer

    Posted

    I have the same tank as you.... good luck on the hardware store paste.. its made for gas line, as in natural gas.  If she is leaking, go to the local auto parts store and grab a can of the Permatex Aviation Gasket sealer.  It did the trick for me when the normal fuel lube and what ever paste that KF factory used failed.

     

    Yours is plumbed the way I have mine too, except I dont have a vent.  The header tank will vent to the lowest fuel level in the opposite tank through the normal gas line, and once its full, there is no need to vent it any more.

     

     

    :BC:

  10. dynomike

    Posted

    thanks ,its an ea81 ,rfi reduction. bing 94 carbs .downside ,shes heavy.740.but powerfull.alot of wrong info when I bought it and I was too trusting,lesson learned.so my floats are gonna have to go on my other plane .no weight in the tail but solo with 3 reserve its at the forward limit.stalled at 30-32 cracked 100 at 4700 rpm.after two hours pulled the plugs and they were that perfect shade of brown.its a plane now ,not just a bunch of parts in the garage

    1 person likes this

  12. Deejayel

    Posted · Edited by Deejayel

    Sounds good. Thanks. The flow certainly increased when I lifted the tail up to level flight

    The picture I posted was from the first install. As with everything I do, its usually "third time's the charm". So after filling the tank the first time with all the plugs in place, I was getting some seepage from a few fittings. I went to ace and got some thread compound. Looks like toothpaste. Designed to be used on fuel fitting applications. By the time I left the bird last night there was no evidence of leakage. When I go out this afternoon....hmmm we shall see

    The new tank has 7 ports where my old one had only 4. The picture shows my main fuel line from the tank at the very bottom. But on my second install attempt installed a fuel drain valve. There is another port about an inch up where I then installed the main line. Of course the three on top where the same. 2 tanks aand 1 vent. And on the upper side there are two more ports presumably for a fuel level sensor of some sort. Not sure.

    I'll get some more pictures posted this evening of the install.

    If anyone wants my old tank, you are welcome to it.

  15. IFMT

    Posted

    Thats cool! It looks like your rad is quite a ways back. I have a dave johnson reduction on my soob and the rad is in front of the main gear. Had to add 20+ pounds to the tail to get it in cg. My empty weight is 726. I need 500 feet to get off the ground with full fuel. What is your empty weight? I'm wondering if moving the rad back would be worth the effort. Thanks

  16. tcj

    Posted

    According to the Rotax two stroke installation manual the pulse pump will pull the required amount of fuel if the fuel tank is not mounted "Considerably lower than the engine".  The only place I have been able to find what distance  "Considerably lower" is, is in this document which says "more than a meter".   http://www.lightaircraftassociation.co.uk/engineering/Mogas/Rotax%202/Inspection%20Checklist%20-%20Rotax%202%20Strokes.pdf

     

    When doing my fuel flow tests, I tested the gravity flow rate at the outlet port of the gascolator.  The minimum flow standard for gravity fuel systems is 150% of engine full power fuel consumption.  For pressurized fuel systems its at least 125%.  I had more than 150% so didn't worry about trying to figure out how to test the pressure flow rate out of a pulse pump.    

  19. akflyer

    Posted

    Mine is in the same location and last time home I drained the tanks to change out all gas lines and to reseal all those damn fittings on the header tank.  I took the line off at the fuel pump and ran it into the 6 gallon cans just using gravity.  It was flowing at 15 GPH as shown on the fuel flow meter and that worked out as I timed the filling of the cans.  I would not think twice about having your header where it is.

     

    What did your seal the tank to bushing threads with?  I fought mine for 3 yrs always having the slightest of gas weeps, but the smell was always there.  I just cleaned them up and sealed them with the permatex aviation gasket sealant and for the first time ever, I don't smell gas in the cockpit.

     

     

    :BC:

  21. C5Engineer

    Posted

    NOT MINE CALL THE NUMBER LISTED IF INTERESTED

     

    Avid amphibian for trade or sale. It ha a 582 with a less than 6 hours, electric start. It has a “c†gear box but I want to keep it but I have a new “b†box never used in it’s place. The Amphibian has never been flown. It is licensed now as “Experimental Light Sportâ€. The owner I bought it from was going to use it as an amphibian trainer but donated to a charity . I bought it and licensed it during the grace period of converting ultralight trainers to “ESLAâ€. I have since retired and don’t have the funds to get it back to spec. There is some covering problems that need to be addressed. The aircraft was covered with Stits Aerothane. After a hailstorm the wings were damaged an need some attention. Other things also need to be addressed. It has new MGL instruments. It also has an “IVO inflight adjustable prop†that has been de commissioned for Light Sport. Every thing is still there to make it functional again if desired. There is also a trailer to haul it on.

    What I want in return is a nice set of “Puddle Jumper†amphibious floats to fit my Challenger II. They need to have all mounting hardware, rigging, rudder and brakes. I will sell the amphibian for $8000 firm if interested. This is considerably less than I have in it. Please call my voice mail at Eight 6 Five Nine 66 84 Eight Seven for details. I will return your call asap. Thank you for your interest. Tom N769G

  22. C5Engineer

    Posted

    Not Mine!

     

    http://boise.craigslist.org/rvs/4085675610.html

     

    In case it expires

     

    Parts left over from my Avid Flyer build- New speedwing spars with factory white powder coat $300.00 takes all 4, Complete Rotax 582 exhaust removed from a Kitfox $300.00, Artex ELT 200 complete w/ antenna, remote switch, mounting tray, and battery tested works great transmits on 121.5 $225.00, rotax cooling system expansion tank $35.00, DART II ELT transmits on 121.5 no battery or antenna, $5.00, Lawrance Airmap 1000 w/ mount and antenna works great $80.00, pair of good used tires removed from kitfox 8" douglas wheels $25.00 for both. I may consider offers and/or trades let me know what you have in mind it never hurts to ask.

    Please Call and E-mail as I'm sometimes hard to get a hold of, NO texts.

    Robert 208-392-Four3One2

     

  25. C5Engineer

    Posted

    great looking plane C5 ,..is that your mustang too?

     Yes it's an early 65 car. Some call them a 64.5 as there are lots of subtle differences between it and a 65. It's my wife's toy. It currently has a tired 302 in it. I am dropping a dressed Ford Racing 306 crate motor in this winter. 340HP and 350 ft/lbs. Nothing too insane as she drives it most of the time but should be plenty of power to make it an even funner cruiser.