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  1. EDMO

    Posted · Edited by Ed In Missouri

    When I went to get .025 material for my flaps and ailerons, they only had 6061T6 for the one set, and ALCLAD 2024 for the other set - I forget now which is which set.

    Question:    I planned to Alumi-prep, alodine, and paint the 6061, but am unsure about doing the same to the Alclad 2024, since the Alclad coating is so thin, I am wondering if this is better or worse than just using it without painting?  

    I don't care if the two sets don't match.

    EDMO

  2. EDMO

    Posted

    I think the drag tubes in the later models were steel instead of aluminum - might be an option if he has worries.  A cold wet rag wrapped around the tube while you heat the joint should be enough.

    EDMO

  4. EDMO

    Posted

    Leni,

          I read an article a while back about some guys who make / repair engine mounts commercially - They were against the powder coating because it can hide cracks.  Recommended epoxy paint instead.   I have heard this about airframes too.

    EdMO

  5. Luked

    Posted

    Ha, only a wannabe engineer. You're totally right that I am over thinking it. I actually like the process though. I also want to make the new structure as light as possible. I took two years of engineering, and then took some time off from school to  earn some more money so I wouldn't have to go into debt. That was almost 20 years ago. I've always regretted not finishing, and I've tried to continue learning.

     

    The prop clearance isn't really what I was trying to figure out, I was just kind of brain dead there for a minute, and forgot to include the bungee preload. What I'm really trying to find out is the max load on the bungee truss during landing deceleration. Then I can use minimum sizes on the truss members to keep the weight down. That's the theory anyway. I'll run it past my brother when I get done. He's a real engineer. I know the weight savings probably isn't worth the time and effort. We'll see.  :dunno:

  9. akflyer

    Posted

    The ones they have for the planes have built in charging systems.  They are being used in 2 stroke planes a lot.... also, I have had a few fires with the RC plane batteries.  In the beginning the 1320 qualcoms we stole out of cameras were the hot ticket, but they were made like a normal AA battery.. when they got overloaded they turned into grenades.  That made for some spectacular foam showers when your plane blew up in the air.  Next were lithium polymers, they did not explode, but they would burn very nicely when overloaded... yep, got a few planes coming down in flames... the new LI FE batteries are MUCH more tolerant to overloading and not as volatile.

     

    The only thing holding me back from having one in m y plane right now is use in the cold temps.  They wont put out the juice when they are cold and with the clutch hand propping is not an option yet.

     

     

    :BC:

    1 person likes this

  11. BryceKat

    Posted

    Check and make sure that the charging system from the airplane is not going to fry the lithium battery. The charging system is set up for a lead acid type battery, and lithiums are a whole different ballgame. More than one RC'er has burnt his house down not paying attention to how he was charging his lithium batteries

    1 person likes this

  13. akflyer

    Posted

    interesting wing design.. I am thinking he is going to need to be flying it pretty fast to get it off the ground.  Chase your dreams, but I hope it does not lead to an early grave.. but if it does, he chose his way to go so what more can a guy ask for??

     

    :BC:

  15. akflyer

    Posted

    I'm guess your an engineer?  :lol:  you be way over thinking this one.  If your gear springs enough to get the prop, your going to have much larger issues to worry about because I would bet the rest of the fuse is going to be piled on top of you in a big smoking hole in the ground.  Short of the gear actually folding, chances are the only way your ever going to get a prop strike if by braking too hard and putting it on its nose... unless you do A LOT to upgrade your brakes, this WILL NEVER HAPPEN even if you try to push your feet through the firewall.

     

    :BC:

  17. 1avidflyer

    Posted

    I wonder if he can fly it with that small of an engine.  11 HP I think it was.  My other thought was there are lots of nice proven designs that a first time builder might be better advised to build.  Himax and Minimax come to mind.  Course I put about 150 hrs on a Himax so maybe I'm prejudiced.  Jim Chuk

  20. High Country

    Posted

    can't help with the tail spring but would recommend if you have any local metal recyclers in your area the ones around here have a section of good used metal that they sell for scrap prices back to you. if so you can probably find what you need for a buck or so. small enough piece and they will probably just give it to you. 

  22. High Country

    Posted

    I was originally planning not to have a battery at all but with my MGL engine monitor I need one now, guess it will be good for the radio and gps as well, anyways what would be the best bang for the buck and keeping the weight down. I'm currently running a 532 but will eventually upgrade to the 582 in a year or so but still plan to keep the pull start. I was considering this one http://www.crazedpilot.com/8oz-12volt-life-lithium-battery-for-aircraft-with-no-electrical-systems-for-lighting-radios-and-more/%C2'> but not to sure about the lithium and can I just charge it off the engine rather than having to plug it in after use? any other better options I should consider without breaking the bank?

     

    -Robert-

  24. akflyer

    Posted

    I don't like the upward runs in it.  It does add to the possibility of trapping air, but I would not say for certain that it would be detrimental.  As far as hysol.. a heat gun will soften it right up and let you take it apart.  Twin header tanks.. I have not seen that before.  I wonder if he was just going to the extra 15 minutes worth of fuel capacity :dunno: 

     

    Did he have them run that way to clear the flaperon push tubes when the wings are folded out?  That is the only reason I can think of to have them in that configuration. 

     

    I would have 45 down then 45 back to the straight run for the tee.

     

    :BC:

  25. RDavidson

    Posted

    I think my previous owner purchased a tubing bender for the first time and decided to get really fancy! Problem is, I think the upward bends could be a really great way to get air trapped in the lines. The 45 degree fittings should be pointed down shouldn't they?

    The PO was also kind enough to Hysol the fittings in place for me. what can I use to get the fitting out? Acetone?

    Thanks,

    Ronpost-545-0-11654900-1399149026_thumb.jpg