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I have been helping a friend finish up his S-6 project and must say that when I ran the W/B through my spreadsheet it was very impressive. No matter how you load that plane the W/B stays pretty much in the center of the range. It will be interesting to see how it flies.
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Here is the link to the 'intensifier' kit for the MC5, they also have one for MC4. I installed it on the MC5's that were originally in my Avid. It helped, but not a lot. I ended up building new pedals with MC4GH (shortest ones they had) to get the geometry right, and they work great.
http://www.matcomfg.com/MASTERCYLINDERINTENSIFIERKIT-idv-3282-46.html
Mark
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Highly recommend the seaplane rating. Did mine in December and it has become an addiction. I'm sitting in Tavares Fl right now, was supposed to fly a 180 on floats from here to Lake of the Ozarks (MO) on Friday, various things delayed that till Monday. This is what a flight delay looks like when you fly seaplanes....
Mark
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Here are the old posts on the Avid spring nose gear attachment, the old video, and the photo of ChrisB's plane with the Kayak under it. The link is in one of the earlier posts - tried to copy it here, but failed.
AND NOW IT IS NO LONGER THERE - JUST SOME OTHER STUFF - DONNO WHY.........
Guess it is because they no longer make the nose attachment, and changed the site?
EDMO
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Guys;
after talking to an Airforce Helicopter Mechanic, which is actually opening a airplane factory, he pointed me the following.
in regards to 4 strokes. (which is the reason why I said in my first post, "then again my engine is a 2 stroke...")
he wrapped the exhaust pipes of his Rotax 912 with the bandage and it worked fine, until they hit 50 hours, and notice cracks all over the Rotax exhaust pipes. Wrapping the pipes will get temperatures really high ALL THE TIME, different from racing cars and other vehicles, this engine operates in constant RPM. meaning there is not enough time to the metal to cool down and so it becomes red glowing. the original material cannot withstand the extreme heat.
his solution was, welding a metal plate onto the pipe with a gap of about 5mm letting the air flow through and preventing burn the cowling, much like a MC to prevent burning your leg,
however this does not solve high temps inside the engine compartment, so they changed the original pipes to STAINLESS STEEL pipes and open bigger vents under the cowling.
so at the end wrapping is not the answer either, i´ve been running my engine for 40+ after the wrap, and see no cracks, BUT THEN AGAIN is a 2 STOKE ENGINE!!!
Rotorway building manual clearly says, should be wrapped to lower the temp and painted with high temp paint to prevent any drop of oil becoming flame inside of the cowling.
I`m just sharing my experience here with you guys, if anyone has a better solution, by all means, share it with US, PLEASE...
so far, the wrap worked for me but I don´t want to burn my engine either!
Regards
Dimi3
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I thought all Helios were now turbine? At least the last civilian one I had my hands on took a while to spool up, and so did the Hueys..
EDMO
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Kitfox is castoring too. I flew several planes with the disconnect on the nose wheel, but without a disconnect, and slipping to a landing with cross controls, the nose wheel is following the rudder, and can make for some very interesting swerves when you hit the ground. The Ercoupe was a terror in that respect, but it always landed better than the pilot thought it would.
They say that castoring and steering with the brakes until you can steer with rudder is fairly easy once you get used to it - guess most things are that way - just another learning curve. I like to get the nosewheel off of the ground ASAP.
Guess everyone but me knows what kind of tailwheel that is???
EdMO
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The are plenty of planes using the castoring nose gear so I bet it will be well suited for you. RV and TriQ to name just a couple.
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Paul,
I have studied the RANS nosegear - good design.
Mine is not steerable - yet - never have flown a castoring nosegear = may change my mind once I try it.
EDMO
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Rans gear has a spring that also disengages the steering while in the air so that it doesn't act like a nose rudder.
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Ed,
Good points...I didn't think about it burning out the valves too.
I tell you what, after seeing those pipes glow on a Dyno stand I don't know how the stainless doesn't just melt into a puddle! That is impressive!
This is one of those topics that gets a pretty even split on pros and cons.
One thought though, if Helos are doing it we shouldn't be afraid of it because those are the same certified engines used in certified GA aircraft...right? If it were really horrible for engine wear or exhaust it would definitely be proven and documented by now.
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The one rating I never got was the Seaplane rating, and it is probably the one I am most interested in getting! I visited Alaska as a kid and I rode in an amphib 182 and I thought that was the coolest thing ever! He was hopping us from lake to lake and stopping to fish while standing on the floats.
Once I get my Magnum flying I'm going to look into floats, and the rating of course...
Seems like all of these floats are Expensive! That is why I looked for the page you found, $1000 seemed like a great deal. However, I would have to go amphib around here because there is not much water, and very few places to keep your plane in the water.
I know Amphibs are pricey! So it will probably stay a dream...
I sent you a basic way to post a link...I probably explained it clear as mud, so let me know if I need to explain it better.
Hey, your computer skills are pretty good buying and selling stuff on Ebay! My Mother still thinks that if she presses the wrong combination of keys there will be an explosion!
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Herman,
I cant find any Matco MCs with 1/2 inch bore - which ones did you order?
I also cant find the insert kit for the 5/8 bore to make it 1/2 inch. Guess I'm just dumb?
EdMO
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Paul,
That is a different video than the one I saw with the gear on a Challenger running over a 2x4 and rocks, and ChrisB's Avid with the Kayak under it.
Looks like same gear tho.
EdMO
I may have found some minibike springs for a start.
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Paul,
I think that video is somewhere on here - Snowpaw or someone sent it to me a long time ago. I have one of those nosegears, They sold for $1000 each!
ChrisB used to have one too. His plane photo is on the video or ad for it - Unfortunately, it is no longer made or sold.
Mine is a trailing gear by about 26 to 30 degrees trail from a -5 degree vertical pivot post - the spring I am thinking about just goes on the swivel post to let it go up with weight or act as a buffer. Hope this is somewhat clearer than I can understand it?
Luke,
Thanks for the site. I will check it out if I cant get what I need - Then I have to figure out WHAT I need, and that may take a little while.
Thanks both,
EDMO
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Ed are you talking about a trailing link nose gear? There is a video on YouTube under "Avid trailing link nose gear" that will allow others to see what it is.
I tried to post a link but this site doesn't like IE and I don' t know how to do it from my IPad either.Keep forgetting about Chrome.
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Hi Ed,
I needed a coil spring for a special project a while back, and I found several websites that sell custom and a wide variety of stock coil springs. I think the one I ended up using was this one:
You can search through their selection on this page:
http://www.centuryspring.com/Store/search_compression.php?reset=1
The advantage is that you can see the exact specs for the spring before you buy it. In your case, You might start with the inside diameter as your first search criteria (to fit your fork tube). Then maybe suggested max load, or spring rate if you have calculated that. Most of them don't seem too expensive, so you can afford to buy more than one option and experiment. That's what I did.
Luke D.
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Hey Dimitri, I've been doing a lot of work on the bird. Plus I've had a lot of family stuff going on hope to get in the air soon. Glad you're healing up! Bryce
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Chris,
I was hoping you would read this. I might - that's a big "might" - be able to draw something if I have to -
Just imagine your fork welded to a 1 1/8 x .188 wall tube and putting a spring over that tube between the fork and the nose mount that the tube slides thru.
The book I have says you should have between 10% and 15% of total weight on the nosewheel - but 12% to 15% is better.
I just want the spring to cushion some of the impact. My 6.00 x6 nosewheel and the fork of a Tripacer or 206 should handle more weight than I will put on it.
EdMO
I think I will look for some motorcycle or ATV springs and see what I can come up with.
Right now, I just have a 60 lb/inch spring and possibly a 720 lb/inch spring to try. I think the 720 is too strong.
P.S. I was thinking more about higher pressure in the nose tire than the mains - to make steering easier???
Rans Coyote II
in "other aircraft your working on"
Av8r3400
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You will be very disappointed with it compared to your Avid. It handles like a slug-- or a Cub or Champ. Slow and sloppy on the controls. S7 and Highlander are similar, too.
Don't get me wrong, they are a capable planes, but once you fly an Avid or 'Fox, you're spoiled to their handling.