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  1. TJay


    I really like the beef up on that drag tube, that will be real strong. Think maybe i might do that before i cover mine. Wonder if a guy was to hysol in a triangle piece of plywood between the drag tube and the spar if that would do that same thing.

  2. EDMO


    Anyone ever see ribs broken like this? Impact? Ground loop? Transporting without braces? Twisting?

    Those ribs acted like the grain was going all in one direction - Plywood does not usually break clean like that...

    I have a hard time believing that the broken drag tube did all of this - maybe it all happened from the same cause at the same time?

    The newer Kitfox drag tube to spar brackets are a big improvement over this old type.

    EDMO

  3. akflyer


    Yep, I made new ones a couple yeas ago that I got in the aircraft section at the local grocery store.  Teflon cutting boards work perfect or is you can get some UHMW that will work as well.

     

    Joey, I like the skylight in that turtle deck I will have to do that on mine.  I have thought about doing it 100 times, but seeing pics of how someone else did it helps!

     

    :BC:

  4. akflyer


    well since it is 40+ and raining at the house and I no longer have snow in the front yard, I am thinking I will be going back to wheels in the next week or so and I should have some flying reports for you on the new springs.

     

    :BC:

  5. EDMO


    One of the UK's mandatory modifications is to sandwich the trailing ribs between .025 aluminum angles glued and riveted - Some in the US have made this modification to their ribs to strengthen or fix them. You could use this method to change the rib ends and reinforce them like Leni said.

    The other possibility is to add material to lengthen the steel flaperon hangers by making a longer hanger and riveting it to the old one with structural rivets to make the flaperon hang straight in a lower position, or simply cut the vertical arm and rivet in an extension strap after clamping them for a test fit.

    If one wing is slightly out of being true, you may have to make some adjustments on your controls to keep from having a "heavy wing" after test flights.

    EDMO

  6. EDMO


    EW 480lbs.

    So, with EW 480, that gives you 470 lbs of load for 950 GW - a perfect load/weight ratio for that engine.

    If mine comes in at 850 EW, then with the same 470 lb load, I am at 1320 GW, with a larger engine, stronger fuselage and landing gear, and more fuel burn.

    I think what I am trying to say, is that with a light plane, you don't need more GW to haul the same load.

    EDMO

  7. IFMT


    My serial number ends in E. I guess this makes it a Bandit. It has 083 spars. HH spacing and double false ribs as well as 7/8 struts. Does not have the plastic smooth wing cover on the front spar or the chrome sticks. Plane was on floats when I bought it. GW is set at 1200. EW 726. Since my bad landing(crash) I got a super deal on a complete fuselage (basically a complete aircraft) minus the wings and engine . Going to take a little time but she will fly again!

    1 person likes this
  8. William Davis


    Thanks all for the responses. The Flaperon has not been drilled in place yet and is clamped in place. Making a scarf joint may work but not sure I feel comfortable making it strong enough. I may do more damage. Is it possible to heat the trailing edge ribs up with a heat gun and reposition then reglue in proper position. I could cut holes on the covering to get the heat gun in and then re patch the wing when finished? I would have to of course reposition the ribs and I wonder what this would do to the covering on the bottom of the wing. Think it would develop a large wrinkle? Think the top covering would stretch enough?

    Thanks

    Bill