Supermotive, I am pretty sure the airfoils are NOT standard, one member a while back even published the airfoil coordinates as a result. I have in my files an old, old build book that defines the wing construction for the MK IV and the Speedwing, and the wing incidence angle method for the speedwing is not mentioned, so it might be the same method as the MK IV. Below is the manual section defining the wings, the addendum pages 2A-1 thru 2A-5, which starts off "Speed Wings are constructed exactly the same as standard wings, except for the changes identified in this addition to the manual."
Super, the wing incidence/fuselage angle procedure is in the Build Book, which is in http://avidfoxflyers.com/index.php?/topic/4220-avid-mk-iv-build-manual/ See Sec III, chap 8 for how to level the fuselage, and then Sec VIII, Chap 6 for how to find and set the wing angle. This will set the angle of incidence to the "factory" (ahem!) setting. I took the liberty of snatching them here:
Kent, I think you are saying that from the rudder hinge line to the end of each wing (maybe 18 feet?) the two wings differ by 1 inch on that pair of diagonals? That is darn straight, frankly. The wings are 144" long and 1" fore and aft swing is about 1/3 of a degree out of line. That wing is aligned by mounting it by the two spar ends, and the spars are 27.5" apart. If the forward spar end of one wing butts 0.2" closer to the centerline of the airplane, that wing will be 1" more forward than the other. Tjay's idea of pulling a string across the entire wing forward spar just to see that alignment is a good one. If one wing is a bit swept, the fix might be to see how the root end butts into the fuselage.
Ethanol earned a bad name when first introduced (1990's?) because it dissolved the carb seals and such and made a real mess. Now, all that is far behind but the Internet Gurus haven't learned anything in the 20 years since. Rotax PREFERS ethanol over avgas because it is much more anti-knock , Rotax's worst enemy, and the seals and such are all designed to easily handle it. Four week old avgas loses some of its octane, and is more risky for Rotax engines, and they tell you that. Ethanol doesn't lose its anti-knock properties so fast. WWII fighters uses alcohol injection to raise the octane of their engines and gain more power. Also, ethanol gets its anti-knock without lead, unlike avgas, which leaves lead deposits like crazy. The reason why I posted the pages from the engine manual is because the internet gurus never read it, and don't believe it even if they did. After all, what does the engine designer know about his engine?
One solution might be to ship shorter spar sections, perhaps 3 or 4 feet, and assemble them in Europe. If you use 2.5" tubing, and epoxy a doubler over the joint (6" length of 2.75" OD, 2.5" ID, 0.125" wall section), you would be very strong, and each section would weigh about .6 lb. You'd have some visible rings around the spar at intervals, but what the heck!
This year's election is just like all others. The President is elected on the Monday after the second Wednesday in December, December 17 this year. Until then, the person with the most apparent votes (call him Joe Biden this year) is called the President Elect, and only cry babies weep in their soup and decide not to let the system progress. I couched dozens of Little League teams, and none of them had behaved like trump. They'd never play another game if they had.
Yes, I run high octane ethanol mix, and Rotax recommends it over pure gasoline! The internet mythology about gasohol is simply amazing. If you read the Rotax ops manual, the higher octane of gasohol is strongly favored over pure gasoline, knock is an engine killer, and alcohol stays high octane. The normal octane enhances of gasoline wear off in a few weeks, especially if the gas is stored a while. Note that the lead in high octane gasoline is not at all attractive to Rotax:
I love mine. It starts and runs great, and delivers the power it is supposed to. The rave valves cut fuel consumption so it doesn't burn much more than the 582 (at the same power). It also only weighs maybe 10 lbs more than the 582, for 91 HP. At my altitude (6000' pressure, 9000-10000 ft DA in the summer), it delivers about 65 HP, so I get decent performance. The only negative side is the extra power needs more cooling, so the belly radiator is needed. Rotax Rick did a great job, his workmanship was perfect, and he really helped me on the install, always returned my calls quickly.
I used this video for the basic setup of my carbs, and found it really helpful. https://youtu.be/PiZh1Ox1vmA
Allen , I am sure you know this, but for those who are looking to learn from these informative threads, here is the source material. The thickness of the needle controls the mid-range mixture, with numbers 272, 274, etc used to control mixture in this area, see http://www.ultralightnews.ca/bing/rotax-bing-54-carburator-tuning-and-troubleshooting.html
Engine sputter or misfires (0 - 1/8 throttle) This area is controlled by the low speed or idle jet, and air mixture screw. Check to make sure the jet is clean and the proper size. Check to see the air mixture screw is set correctly.
Engine sputter or misfires (1/8 - 1/2 throttle) This generally indicates a lean fuel mixture. Check to make sure your needle and clip are in the right position and are not damaged. The air screw still has some effect here.
Engine sputter or misfires (1/2 - 3/4 throttle) This area is controlled by the needle jet and jet needle. Verify that you have the correct jet and needle jet. Also verify that they are located BELOW the white plastic retaining cup. If they are located on top of the retainer the engine will run rough in all ranges, since the mixture is wrong in all locations. The mid range is controlled by the needle and needle jet. The needle jets are available in various sizes with the larger numbers giving a richer fuel mixture and the lower numbers a leaner mixture.
Here are the various jet needles: https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/eppages/needlejetbing54.php
A reported problem with ALL Bing carbs is with failure of the jet and or needle clip. This can result in erratic running, lean fuel mixtures, engine returning to and idle during flight. To determine whether you need to adjust the needle jets you require a EGT gauge and tachometer. For example: Many owners of 582's have reported high EGT readings in the 5600 to 5800 rpm range using the stock needle jet of 272 - using a 274 or 276 eliminates this problem. Owners of older model 532 report having a problem keeping the engine set at 5400 rpm. It would jump up and down from 5400 to 5800 resulting from a lean fuel mixture. Again the larger jet usually cures this problem.
Engine sputter or misfires (3/4 to full throttle) This area is controlled by the main jet. Check to make sure it is in place and snug. Make sure there is no water in the bottom of the float bowl. Make sure the needle and clip are in good working condition. If the needle fails around the clip retaining area this will allow the needle to jump up and down causing erratic running. Proper float level is also important here to little fuel flow can cause an lean mixture while to must flow can result in a rich mixture.