LSaupe

I was planing on just using a torpedo heater in the hanger in the region of the front of the bird.  The temp in the hanger was 20F when I arrived, so pulled it out into the direct sunshine for about 20 minutes and went.  Kinda was thinking 20F for a cold limit without heat (probably overkill).

Gonna give it an hour of preheat (might not be long enough to make a difference).  But... if all goes well will fly off the last 1.6 hours of Phase 1 and then take the bride for an orientation ride before I turn the keys over to her.  Hopefully the weather holds, though it will be a bit nippy!  Unfortunately we have obligations starting at 10:00 AM, so we have a bit of a limited window here.

Great depiction.  Thanks for posting.

I have the standard (non synthetic) gear oil call out in my Rotax C box.  Awful viscous stuff.  Plan to fly tomorrow (will be low teens).  Any issues with starting up and running standard gearbox oil in cold weather like this?  I dont see anything on the Rotax limits about this, so then assume all is well, but thought I would check. 

Great feedback.  Only was looking for overflight requirements.  If I read this correctly, no need to talk with anyone (as I am not entering Class C airspace) but do need to have a Mode C from above the Class C airspace to 10,000 ft in the veil?

If I wanted to fly VFR over class C airspace (like KSYR), are there any communication or transponder requirements to do so?  My understanding is no, but wanted to check here.  I do believe you need an active transponder to pass over Class B, but don't see anything for Class C.

T6?

How does your friend like his Rans?

Great Vid and Congratulations!

Here is a vid the RV guys took.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aQGo_Hcp_wU

A few more pics posted on our EAA site.  Check out the Outhouse Races on Lake Desolation

Isnt it tough holding a tight bank with the auger to make a hole in a cross wind?

Looks like I need to pull my prop soon to replace a gearbox seal.  Anyone know if a GSC prop can be removed and remain assembled (i.e. remove on only the prop shaft faceplate bolts and leave the prop hub bolts torqued)?  Reason being the tracking and pitch is absolutely perfect and would hate to go through the whole process again (usually takes more than one go at it)

Fabulous weekend of flying, capped off by a ice fly-in for lunch at the Sport Island Pub.  Note the turbine Beaver, that bird is amazing to watch perform.

Looks fantastic.  Nice work!

So great to hear you chiming in and for shedding some light on what happened.  Wishing you a speedy and restful recovery.

My Matco MC-1 master cylinders have begun to weep out of the top.  I see that Matco no longer makes this cylinder, but they do offer a rebuild kit for it.

Anyone does this repair before?  Pretty straight forward?  Worth the trip (assuming the internal surfaces are fine) or would replacement with a newer style make more sense?

Hi All:

Noticed after my last two outings that I am getting a static leak on my upper shaft (large gear) aft seal (the shaft that sticks out of the case).  Only leaks static after shut down and about 2 to 3 drops worth.  A bit of a nuisance at this point.

Anyone experienced this before?  Not sure if it is cold weather related or not.

To change this bugger (the seal), looks like the front half of the gear case needs to come off for sure.  The bearing and seal being held in by a C clip.  

Question though, have any of you changed this seal before?  If so, can this be done without pulling the aft case half off the airplane (considerably more work)?

Hoping this is an easy/light pressure fit (can be moved with hand pressure or light pressure on a wood shaft).  Hopefully a hydraulic press would not be required.

Anyone done seal change while on the bird?

I am a bit confused over what is the proper way to identify yourself in a traffic pattern of a class G airport at surface (no tower or ATC involved). Locally getting some conflicting information.

I have just been using my make and N number "Kitfox 123AB".  Others claim you need to add color... "Red Kitfox 123AB", some say just make and color "Red Kitfox". Others indicate you must add "Experimental" and now I am hearing also "Light Sport" as well (some say these go before and some say after the Make and N number).  Others say add also the model and if it is high wing or low wing

What is correct (looking more for actual requirements vice personal preferences)?  My previous understanding was that "Experimental" was added only for an initial call to ATC (then dropped), and this is added after the N number.

If you string all this mess together you get "Sky Ranch Traffic - Red high wing Kitfox Model III 123AB Experimental Light Sport..."   Obviously that makes no sense (or maybe does it)?

Great illustration, thanks!

Luckily on this end we now have a mix of ice and turf.  No doubt that will change soon though.

Yep, there you go.  Thanks.

Thanks All.  Ed, it is called the Additional Pilot Program for Phase I flight testing.  Have the paperwork at work.  Let me do a quick Google, should be there.  It only applies to approved kits and models.

26 hrs into the phase I flight testing and would like to start doing work with the higher gross weights (up to my max t.o. weight).

Unfortunately the Kitfox Model III doesn't qualify for the Additional Pilot Program (only Model IV and above).

I was thinking maybe strapping in sand bags or similar.  What do you guys use for this (materials and methods)?

Larry S.

The small external Kitfox style radiator works great. I have mine blocked 1/3 off during the winter.

Congrats!  What does it have for an engine and prop?