Jim, you should have no problem...to give you an idea, I have a 69in scimittar 2 bladed on my 100Hp+ rotax 912 and it works great, no problem absorbing that amount of power P.s I could not go bigger than 70inch because of the prop hitting the fuselage (catalina pusher) My previous prop (Warp drive blades) was cavitating and could not handle the power...also 2x weight.
Hey Jim one alternative is to order the Kool prop in Canada....same factory than Luga / NRprop etc The company is called airtrikes and the boss is called Vassili, a good guy. http://www.airtrikes.net/propellers.shtml
This might be due to the LH wing incidence you can adjust on the LH strut. Once adjusted, the wing may be under some tension and the holes don't line up perfectly.... You can try to install the wing/strut with the lower bolt and only one upper bolt and then adjust the adjustable eye bolt to line up with the remaining bolt hole. Hope this makes sense, Laurent
Hey Jim, on that subject I find these guys showing how to with pictures quite helpfull. The only thing I know is that the thread is fine thread Metric 46mm http://www.aerofixaviation.co.uk/rotax912/rotax-912uls-part-10-flywheel-removal.shtml Also on the german ebay you can order the puller for about 75 usd https://www.ebay.de/itm/Rotax-912-Polradabzieher-Schwungradabzieher-M46-Innengewinde-Flywheel-puller/254213841180?_trkparms=aid%3D1110006%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20160323102634%26meid%3D1b63708857654624b2767d61a6082c7d%26pid%3D100623%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D5%26sd%3D362606520851%26itm%3D254213841180%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D2047675%26algv%3DDefaultOrganic%26brand%3DMarkenlos&_trksid=p2047675.c100623.m-1
Hey Jim, I can feel what you're going through...I nearly lost my mind when I did have my rough running.. Anyhow when you get it going you'll forget the hard time troubleshooting. One thing for sure, you will know your engine inside-out:) Concerning the coils....you have 8 coils producing electric current for your aircraft (250W) and then you have an additional 2 'ignition' coils producing electricity (unregulated AC) to power each your ignition modules (that way your engine ignition has always power). These are the coils you have to check. Also note the two red wires, they are the ones feeding your modules. Also check these wires as they were a problem / shorting out on some harness against the shielding (intermittent problem). So when you check your two coils through the red wires, wiggle the harness around and check continuity at the same time. Hope that helps, Keep going..
talking about the grounds...forgot to tell you about the importance of the ignition modules ground wire being 100% grounded. I had a ground wire fitted to a tab on my engine mount and found that the engine mount to airframe ground had some resistance (my engine mount/frame is powder coated), Try and pull a ground wire directly from your batt. neg. to see if things improve. Also the earlier 912 engines had wires shorting in the braided sleeve going to the coils which was an intermittent fault sometimes not powering one module or the other. Also make sure your stator coils are good (measure impedance through the ign module connector) I am sure you already know, but all these items have a service letter or service bulletin you can find @ https://www.rotax-owner.com/en/support-topmenu/service-bulletins . your solution to your problem might be somewhere else in this long list.... Laurent
Hey Jim, I found three things : I had different length slider springs in my carbs , my choke housing seal was not totally airtight. The other thing was that the mechanical rotax fuel pump is delivering way too much fuel pressure (5-7psi) at idle. I called the bing manufacturer and they confirmed that the bing carbs are built for a maximum of 2.9psi pressure...So I installed a fuel pressure regulator/damper and all is great. took me ages to find these problems...
Hey Jim, what was you mag drop rpm? A normal mag drop should be between 80-120 rpm, anything above hints to ignition system malfunction (leads/caps/coils/pickup etc) I also had a hard time for 6 months figuring a bad mag drop.. Also I found it not always clear if it's an ignition issue or carb issue, hence the 80-120 rpm drop test. I had 200-300rpm drop...was bad , even though book says up to 300 is ok