Hey Chris, sorry I tend to forget the price of things....feel better that way. Also this actuator is quite old and i find a bit heavy. I am sure you can find a reasonably priced actuator with similar specs (boats have a wide selection, see trim tab actuator/engine lift actuator/hatch actuator etc....maybe you find a second hand one). The pull-push force to get the gear up/down is not much.....maybe 80-100Lbs. The strength needed from the actuator is mostly when landing at touch down...a bad hard landing will give you a static load of about 3600-4000Lbs. This number is what the actuator has to withstand in compression when retracted (gear down). Any 12v DC linear actuator able to handle 4000Lbs static load and a few hundred Lbs dynamic load will work just fine. You will need about 150mm / 5,9 inch travel. There are some with integral adjustable limit switches...less wiring and simpler installation than mine. If possible I would choose a waterproof one.
Hey Chris, the actuator travel is limited by the two end micro switches, they also switch the lights on the dash. The way I protected the actuator is by a 15A circuit breaker. That breaker will pop if the actuator hits it's end limits (limit micro switch not working) or if the actuator is energized gear down with aircraft on ground. Yes it is a DPDT crosswired switch plus a couple of relays, I'll get you the wiring next...have to do a bit of paper digging
Hey Chris,, here some pictures of the install for you. When photos were taken the gear is in its "gear down" position. Also note the gear switch on the cockpit is a 3 way switch...switch in Gear up =-blue light on, gear up / switch in middle position=no power to system and all lights off / switch in gear down=gear down and green light on. The switch mid position allows you to not have the bright gear up light on all the time. Also it allows you to partially extend the gear at any position between gear up and gear down.
from my experience, you better proceed step by step. Before incriminating the modules (they very rarely brake) go through all your ignition system first. Looking at the pictures I would start over/ take everything off, replace all your ign. wires , check all connectors, grounds , measure the coils , check your trigger coils & gap , measure power cable to the ignition boxes (known to be a problem on old harness) , check your ignition switch circuits (see Jim's advice) I have spent toooooo many hours trying to troubleshoot the system installed with no success. Only after removing it all making the access easy did I find my issues.
Hey Firefox, this fibreglass taiwheel spring was discussed in the thread below. I am really happy with my fibreglass spring. It's much lighter, does not rust (I fly in the water) and can handle my heavy tail when wings folded (240Lbs) plus is still springy enough when wings unfolded (102Lbs on the tail)
On my 912 when I did switch off the engine to check out how it would glide, with a 2 blade warp drive the engine did not windmill. That was gliding at 65-75Mph. I did not try and dive to see if it would mill at higher speeds... My 2cents
Hey Wypaul, I do agree it would be much simpler / better to just buy a good used ULS....but for me after searching for 2 years I could not find a good ULS below 11'000USD and hence decided I'd try to get my old / low Hrs 80Hp up to spec. The mods I mentionned earlier cost me a total of 5200 USD which I could afford. In the end, If you have the cash get a ULS, if your half poor like me, maybe try and mod your 912 UL
Hey firefox, I went fron a 94' 80Hp ul to a 107Hp uls spec... I chose to replace the 80hp cylinders and pistons with 100 Hp rotax pistons cylinders (uls spec) . In order to accomodate the higher stress on the crankcase I had the original case machined to have the through bolts mod installed to prevent case fretting. Also to use your 80Hp heads you need to machine them to fit the 100Hp rotax cylinders. I also have a high performance camshaft from edgeperformance/norway. Here the coordinates of our canadian dealer...http://badasspowersports.com/badass-shop/performance-camshafts/ here the edgeperformance website https://www.edgeperformance.no Last and not least, you have to change your ignition rotor /pick ups to the different 100Hp spec..+ you need the stronger starter motor..
Just a silly question here...maybe your pilot has big thighs, in that case, it is possible to have aileron movement restriction to the left (stick butting against leg). Just thinking outside the box. L.W.
Hey Mark, I highly recommend you not to fly until you find the issue(s). We need more info to help figure out what could be going on. Have you checked that the bottom of your seat is not interfering with your elevator control tube. Also your rudder cables pass through guides along the structure, did you check if they're ok going from your pedals to the rudder horns? Is your electric trim actually working/moving? indicator correct? Just a few things you might look at...