ChrisBolkan

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  1. ChrisBolkan added a post in a topic A new baby coming home   

    Hi!
    I understand that your situation is different, but going in from the bottom of the wing into each compartment is a great way to do anything inside the tanks. Look all the way down in the thread where I have photos of a very good way to go inside the tanks with minimal heartache.
    Maybe I don't understand what you need to do. I had leaks, but you could just as easily clean the tanks out and recoat if you wanted without sloshing which I would never do because you can't see the work. With the tanks open you can see everything.
    Chris
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  2. ChrisBolkan added a post in a topic A new baby coming home   


    Have a look at this thread. I went through something similar. Might be worth a read first before you do decide what to do and how to do it.
     
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  3. ChrisBolkan added a post in a topic Grey Vs Blue   

    I will acquiesce to Jim's experience with a new old "in the box) engine. My experience has always been with engines that have at least been previously run....but some not run for WELL over 10 years. I have always used the approach I described above and had great results. But those engines had been run previously, so any grease applied during assembly would have been diluted and gone. My experience is first hand including performing all disassembly, inspection, overhaul and re assembly activities myself (with the exception boring cylinders). 
    I have seen first had with my own eyes what the 582 looks like inside at all phases of time in use many times. If it had been previously run I would still recommend what I suggested above, but in light of discovering dried grease in an un-run engine, it is probably best to disassemble it first and clean up the dried grease.
    Thanks for not letting me steer him in the wrong direction Jim.
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  4. ChrisBolkan added a post in a topic Grey Vs Blue   

    Probably going to get hammered for saying this, but if you have a chance to get an unused grey head for a good deal grab it! Assuming it has been kept inside and not left out in the weather, I would replace the carb boots and any external rubber and put it on the plane and run it. Break it in properly on the ground (just in case). Normally I have done the break in procedure in the air over the airstrip I fly out of (just in case) because it is much easier to perform in the air than on the ground. But you don't know anything about the engine. 
    Make absolutely sure since it is a grey head with rubber seals that you either buy pre-mix dexcool or mix up your own with DISTILLED water and those rubber seals will never give you a problem. If the engine runs and works great as-is, fly it and gain confidence until you trust it and then fly the shit out of it. When you decide it is time for an overhaul send it to lockwood or another reputable shop and have them put a ceramic seal in place of the rubber if you want. 
    You might want to get a couple of the carb "short kits" or whatever they are called (the rebuild kits that only contain gaskets) and if the carbs give you any problem during startup and break in, rebuild the carbs.
    Make sure you plumb the oil reservoir in properly, fill it with oil properly using the bleed screw, and watch for any drop in oil as you break in and run the engine for the first several hours. If all is good you should be money!
    Like I said I may get hammered for saying this but I see no reason to do a time only rebuild of one of these engines if it is "new" and been kept in decent indoor conditions since purchased.
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  5. ChrisBolkan added a post in a topic Electrical   

    Dolfin, the problem with a circuit breaker in the starter motor loop is the potential for voltage drop. Voltage drop is very critical in starter loops and can result in slow cranking. For the same weight you can install a continuous duty master solenoid that will have minimal voltage drop. A lot of times in experimental aircraft master solenoids are not incorporated. Not sure why. It might be the weight. It might be the complexity. It is the safest approach though.
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  6. ChrisBolkan added a post in a topic Electrical   

    Since the charging system can put out in the neighborhood of 15 amps with the 582, and since charging current will also be going thru that fuse, I would revise the fuse value to 15-20A, and use 10-12 gage wire for that run.
     
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  7. ChrisBolkan added a post in a topic Electrical   

    That is the "master fuse" which provides the buss its power for everything. I believe if you use that approach it should be panel mounted (I would use a 10-20A) breaker or fuse depending on your wire gage and sum of loads.
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  8. ChrisBolkan added a post in a topic Chemtrails at night   

    I never saw that when first posted. Hillairous!
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  9. ChrisBolkan added a post in a topic 100hp Cylinders on a 912 UL   

    Amazing isn't it? Changed everything with regard to start up and shut down.
    I was dealing with 2 problems. The start up and shut down which the slipper clutch completely cured. Absolutely awesome.
    I also had a midrange vibration. Like something just a bit out of balance. The prop is a Whirlwind very carefully adjusted for equal pitch. I had previously bought a balance master and installed it. I thought It helped some but not a lot. it seemed more to just change the character of the vibration. I was so unimpressed with the Balance master that when I installed the slipper clutch I did not reinstall the balance master. The vibration was still there. All this time every time I took off the prop for any reason it went back on exactly the same way and place it came off. For no good reason I am anal that way. Still frustrated with the vibration I decided to put the balance master back on the plane, except this time I moved the prop one set of bolt holes when I reinstalled the balance master. All of the vibration vanished completely! My engine is now perfectly smooth throughout the entire operating range. I've never known this kind of smooth before except with IVO ultralight props.
    I remember when I flew behind the 582 with even gear reduction ratios I would mess with prop timing to affect vibration. I don't know what the ratio on my 912 is, but do not think it is even. Anyway, I need to remove the balance master again leaving the prop where it is to see if timing the prop made the difference or if it is the balance master (which did not work before) or some combination of the two. Right now I am enjoying flying the smoothest 912 I have ever felt so am not going to take the prop off again until there is a reason, and then I will try it without the balance master again to absolutely determine if prop timing affects vibration which I never thought it could. We'll see....
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  10. ChrisBolkan added a post in a topic Cabane Gear for the Avid+   

    Wish my Avid + looked that good!
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  11. ChrisBolkan added a post in a topic 100hp Cylinders on a 912 UL   

    The slipper clutch is huge. 
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  12. ChrisBolkan added a post in a topic Avid Stretch (Mini Plus)   

    Those are the biggest 26's I've ever seen! Swear they look like 29's or bigger in the photos!
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  13. ChrisBolkan added a post in a topic 100hp Cylinders on a 912 UL   

    I am considering the crossover mod, but my engine idles so smoothly and down real low too. I believe it is primarily done to reduce sensitivity to carb balance at idle. Did you notice any midrange improvement in smoothness with the X-over mod?
     
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  14. ChrisBolkan added a post in a topic 100hp Cylinders on a 912 UL   

    After re-reading a previous post about my 912 S I feel like I need to explain better. From the beginning I have had two issues with it. First was starts that would sometimes shake the engine so hard I KNEW damage would be done. And it was being done. It manifested itself in the form of motor mount bolts (upper pilot side in my case) This happened multiple times until I finally installed a slipper clutch. Everything else I did up to then did virtually nothing. The things that did nothing to fix the rough starts were rebuilding and finely balancing the carbs, replacing the existing heavy club bladed prop that way exceeded the gearbox rating to a very nice lightweight Whirlwind like those seen on a lot of kitfoxes, and built and installed a soft start module. None of those did any good. The Slipper clutch solved rough starts and stops INSTANTLY. 
    The other bothersome but not destructive issue I have is with vibration at some RPMS. It idles like butter, is pretty smooth between 4800 and 5600 RPM but has an annoying vibration from about 3300 to about 4600 that peaks somewhere around 3800-4000. Annoying but doesn't feel destructive. I took the balance master that I had on it off when I installed the slipper clutch just to see what would happen. I will re-install the balance master again and see how much difference it makes. I think I'm down to it's just a harmonic thing like some airplanes just have, or possibly a compression difference in a cylinder or maybe the fancy expensive lightweight prop I bought is out of balance. I've set blade pitch precisely numerous times with no real change.
    The reason I just posted this is because in my previous post I think I blurred the two problems into one, and thought that might be confusing to someone else reading that might be chasing down problems. 
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  15. ChrisBolkan added a post in a topic F7A Bellcrank mod   

    What's the deal with the revised F7's that rudder input doesn't compensate for? Not a sarcastic question. I've got about 2000 hours in various Avids. I probably couldn't even fly another plane. Fits like a suit to me. So what would I experience different and would it be awesome? I mean that sincerely. I've never flown one with revised F7s.
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  16. ChrisBolkan added a post in a topic My Kitfox gets 27 Desser's   

    Thanks!
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  17. ChrisBolkan added a post in a topic 100hp Cylinders on a 912 UL   

    I too am interested in how anyone has implemented the larger crossover tube.
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  18. ChrisBolkan added a post in a topic New respect   

    Holy crap! How often does something like that happen and everyone survive?
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  19. ChrisBolkan added a post in a topic 100hp Cylinders on a 912 UL   

    I have a balance master. It does some good. I think the 912 s is just a angrier engine than the 80 hp version.
     
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  20. ChrisBolkan added a post in a topic 100hp Cylinders on a 912 UL   

    If you don't have a slipper clutch in your new high compression 912 you are going to need one. I chased rough starts and broken motor mount bolts for a long time. The engine was powerful but so rough. Bought a low inertia prop. Nothing. Soft start module. Nothing. Slipper clutch and it starts like butter. It's the only thing it needed. I wasted a lot of money and effort all to find the real reason rotax ended up putting the slipper clutch on all their high compression engines. it wasn't in case of prop strike.
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  21. ChrisBolkan added a post in a topic My Kitfox gets 27 Desser's   

    I'm in the same boat regarding axle strength. I have no idea if they will hold up. I have a friend here locally that may have a set of wheels that might work. If he will part with them I could see if they will work and at least try it out WRT to braking as-is. I am surprised at the authority my brakes have on this plane. I am running the super tiny diameter high pressure brake hose and for some reason it seems to be far superior to the typical Avid brakes I have experienced. Otherwise it's just plain 'ol Matco on this plane. No matter what, eventually I could really use the double pucks if I pull the cord and give this a try. 
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  22. ChrisBolkan added a post in a topic My Kitfox gets 27 Desser's   

    Running a 912s. Just installed a slipper clutch after beating my head against the wall continually replacing broken motor mount bolts and even having to weld a broken mount. I put on a super nice low inertia prop...NOTHING. I put on a soft start module...NOTHING. Finally talked to Hal and bought a used slipper clutch that he overhauled set to 500ft/lb and viola! Starts and stops like butter!
    I am not a mechanical idiot. II asked about the slipper clutch and would it help. Talked to people supposedly "in the know" who said if I did "these things" the rough starts would go away and that I did not need a slipper clutch.  Thought it was all about prop strikes only. NO WAY! The 100 HP engine NEEDS it to keep from beating the plane to death starting up. I believe ROTAX committed a crime not recalling 100 HP engines that did not come with the clutch, and requiring slipper clutches be installed. OK done with my rant.
    I am interested in your wheels and brakes. It would be the most economical way to see how bigger tires would work out. When are you planning to upgrade? I hope my axles can handle the forces from that size tire. That's another thing I should look into. 
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  23. ChrisBolkan added a post in a topic My Kitfox gets 27 Desser's   

    Here are some pics so you can see the tail position and what it looks like blocked up to approximately where the 27's would place it. I blocked it before considering the 27s thinking I might try to extend a second set of landing gear I have laying around. Then I saw your post on the 27s and it got me thinking.



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  24. ChrisBolkan added a post in a topic My Kitfox gets 27 Desser's   

    My rims are split and there is no o ring seal. There might be something I could do to go tubeless, but nothing has come to me.
    I'm running the 21's on a trike Avid with extended fuselage. I put a rans nose fork on the front with an 800 training wheel. The tail is still too low to land super slow under power without the tail hitting. Been toying with the idea of trying 27's on the mains to get the tail up higher but it might be too ridiculous. Blocking the current tires to your axle height makes everything sit perfect with the tail about 6 inches higher. I would have to switch to 8 inch wheels and prolly go double puck brakes though.
    If I were to try 27's It would have to be without tubes because I think 27's with tubes would be a lot of tire to spin up on landing in a trike config. However, the 21's don't feel any different than MUCH smaller mains. I don't notice any more pitching moment with 21's than 600's, so maybe 27's would work.
    It was interesting that when I went to 29 inch bushwheels form 850 ribbed tires on my Magnum, I expected a huge difference in the feel of the plane on contact with the ground. There wasn't near as much difference as I expected on pavement. And everyone knows how awesome they are off pavement :-)
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  25. ChrisBolkan added a post in a topic My Kitfox gets 27 Desser's   

    At 4 PSI do you have any concern they will turn on the rim? I know since they are bigger, the will clamp harder to the rim than the smaller 21's at the same pressure, but don't have a feel for how much better. I sure didn't like twisting the tire and shearing the stem at 5 PSI. I am running tubes. Am thinking about screwing the bead to the rims
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