akflyer

Is your top spring square across the end or rounded, its kind of tough to tell from the angle of your pics.  

Taller gear will help out with not smacking that tail wheel first all the time as well and will make you happier I think.

single or dual leaf?  Can you get a good shot of the end of the spring at the break?

  Glad is did not end any worse!

Agreed.  If you use one, you automatically use the other.   Rudder/aileron interconnected airplanes make one pretty lazy.  It would take some big rotor type winds to keep me from being able to level my Avid or any KF I have flown to date.  Either they guy is not moving the stick to full deflection or not using his feet.  If he is then there is something wrong in the control system or structure.

The MK IV has the F7A arms I believe.  Now I am going to have to measure mine again when I have it in the shop next week.

To each his own.  If you want to make videos do so, if you want to overhype them just like every other reality TV show or youtube sensation then you better be prepared for some feed back.  Doing VG testing is nothing new.  I have done it, big frickin whoop.  You stall and if you don't have the ball centered and keep the stick in your lap your going to spin.  That is flying 101.  To make a deal and talk about how scary it is just means that you are probably sporting a man bun and fly tricycle gear planes   

Yes some of my comment is in jest as I can't believe how twisted up some get over things like this.

The complete build manual including rigging is located in the link above.  Without the F7A mod, you probably have more up travel than down on the roll input.

With mine, when I pull in full flaps I get very little addition "down" movement on the flaperon but the other side goes up as usual.  

These birds are pretty responsive in roll control.  If he can't level a wing something is loose and flopping.  Check the rib tails and the complete system for slop.  I have only been in one situation where I could not level the wings with just the stick and that was in a nasty mountain rotor.  You can fly the plane with rudder alone so if he can't keep wings level something is wrong in a big way.

I am not sure how Chris is getting 40 degrees down on his bird, I can't even come close to that on mine.  That seems to me like your getting well into roll reversal territory where the drag of the down can't be overcome by the opposite side going up and you roll in the opposite direction you intended.

Avids and kitfoxes demand a lot of rudder use doe to adverse yaw with the original mixer system.  Do you have the updated F7A control arms in the mixer?

When in a good crosswind I limit the flap use as well.

I was referring to the guy in the video over playing how "scary" a stall was

If having fun playing with stalls scares the crap out of you then perhaps flying aint your thing.  He is talking smack for the benefit of the video and to over sensationalize it just like ever other youtube sensation.  

Also remember that this is on the KF 7 wing that has a different airfoil than the early model KF.

The most benefit you will see from the VGs is probably when you yanking and banking as most pilots I know or have seen don't or wont drag the plane in way behind the power curve at high angles of attack.

From Bob.

mod IV flaperon measurements.jfif

There is a difference.  When I went over to help Bob with his I noticed that right off the bat and questioned him on it.  He pulled out the book and showed me because I might have mentioned that he was getting old and loosing his mind

Nice work Mr! 

pretty incredible.  

OKC kicked it back on Bob last spring when he was trying to get his Mod IV registered.  It became quite an ordeal but with the help of the local FAA inspector he was able to finally get it done.  Took a few months of going back and forth from what I remember.

When I was trying to set up an inspection the DAR was being elusive at best.  We are fortunate that we have a new FAA crew stationed local here that are REALLY GOOD GUYS!  While being relatively new, they were not overbearing and were very helpful in getting the birds signed off.  Seems OKC has an issue with the letter that kitfox has posted on the website for those who end up with a barn find old skystar kit that is being completed and registered.  That letter no longer satisfied OKC.  The local FAA inspector spent A LOT of time helping Bob, writing the letters and telling him word for word what he needed to do in order to get the old kit registered.  

I was really surprised at the time they spent HELPING and not hindering and leaving him twisting in the wind with a new plane that OKC did not want to register.

When building take lots of pictures.  I organized my "rebuild" book with lots of pics and BASIC write up of repairs done and methods used.  The FAA inspector was impressed as he scanned through it.  He spend about 20 minutes going over the book and maybe a 5 minute walk around the plane then handed me that beautiful pink slip.

bolt "R" is shown vertical not horizontal.  That will probably make a difference.  The flap lever is held in place by the friction washer but it seems most make some sort of detent or ratchet system as they are used to other aircraft that are made that way.  I like not having detents and the ability to use what ever exact amount I want to use just by pulling or pushing the lever.  in reality I pretty much use full or none on the flaps but in certain gusty or crosswind scenarios I might use varying amounts depending on what "feels" right and gives me the roll control I want or need.

any cub is a fun cub to fly!

Glad to hear the moose are making a comeback!  I am planning on getting the skis on the pacer when I get home this trip, it's past time that we get to go do some flying again.

I sure don't envy the guys on the ground but a couple winches and he should be good to go.

I think there are pics of the mod that John Stoner did on his KF III that put the mixer under the seat and gave it the proper differential.  You do have to disconnect the rods to fold the wings but that's a pretty small price to pay for a system with no slop and that worked well.  It was a pretty easy mod to do as well.

where did the pics go.  Its a sweet looking ride!  If you can't get them to post let me know and I will post them up.

Moving your CG toward the rear of the envelope actually helps all phases of the flight, not just the flair.  At least, that is what I have found in my flying.  With it being a "header tank" as you drain fuel from the main tanks into it, your CG will move more rearward as you burn the fuel off but I doubt you could ever get it past the published limits.  I run mine beyond the published limits quite often.

Cut the threaded rod and weld it into a tube at the length you want.  Easiest way to accomplish what your trying to do.

Damn, the one I am now the caretaker of is in this article!  This might be the kick I needed to get in gear and get mine painted and in the air.

I would be hesitant to offer any advice for mods based on this.  Your right, its none of our business so why bother.

I think it safe to say that a mission should be in mind when building or modding a bird.  Why should I waste time listing out a ton of mods that you have no use for?? Why beef up the fuse and make it big tire ready when you have no use for big tires?  why mention mods for float use when you would never put it on floats

I think you can see where I am going with this in as nice of a way as I possibly can... this is after having a few days to really think about my reply.