Freebird gets laparoscopy today.

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Posted

It was hard to take a perfect flying airplane out of service but Time for a project I guess. Hope you Enjoy.

 

 

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Posted


Before.

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Posted

And after

Look at all that room back there.

 

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Posted

Definitely interested in your project. I'm just finalizing my own design. CoClimber also redid his and used the same design the model 4 uses. Is that what you're doing?

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Posted


Yeah time for an update. Lets see if it makes any difference in how it flys.  I ordered the new control system from aircraft spruce. Ill let you know when I get it all put together.

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Posted (edited)

It will be interesting to follow the conversion. And what all is involved in it. Got to take one's hat off to the experimenters. Where would we be without them! The folding wings is mandatory for my situation as of now so I'll have to leave mine as is. If the situation changes then its a whole new ballgame.

Edited by Allen Sutphin

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Posted


Yeah time for an update. Lets see if it makes any difference in how it flys.  I ordered the new control system from aircraft spruce. Ill let you know when I get it all put together.

What control system is that?  Does aircraft spruce sell Kitfox parts or is it something different?  Got a part #?  JImChuk

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Posted


Yeah time for an update. Lets see if it makes any difference in how it flys.  I ordered the new control system from aircraft spruce. Ill let you know when I get it all put together.

What control system is that?  Does aircraft spruce sell Kitfox parts or is it something different?  Got a part #?  JImChuk

Ha just 4130 tubing I took some measurements on a model 4 quite a while back.

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Posted

Guess that clears it up a bit!  :-)  Will be interesting to see how it comes out.  JImChuk

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Posted


For those who are interested in this another thing you need to do is make a new mount for the flap handle. The old style pulls on the mixer and the new style pushes on the mixer. Here is a shot of that.  Bit of a trick weld in these spots.

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Posted

 Will be interesting to see how it comes out.  JImChuk

Yeah it will because I am using my original wings and flaperons for this summer. So it will be a trick to get it all to work right.

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Posted


My new mixer parts showed up today lets see if I can get something figured out this weekend.

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Posted


Now that's a good Saturdays work.

Now if I had a manual I could get it all set.  Anybody around here have the manual?

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Posted

Nice work Mr! 

:BC:

 

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Posted (edited)

I have a couple of manuals, but wont be near them for a month....JImChuk

PS  I was just looking at some pictures of both Kitfox 4s I have, and I can't see any lightening holes on the control arms.  I sure thought I saw/remembered some but maybe the altzimers is kicking in again:lmao:

Edited by 1avidflyer
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Posted

Was just looking at your pictures again, and maybe it's not a concern, but on the Kitfox 4, there is a pulley that reroutes the rudder cable lower to clear the new style flaperon controls.  Here is a lousy picture of mine before I stripped it down and cleaned it up.  Should be able to see the rudder cable and where it bends around the pulley.  I'll look to see if I can find any better pictures to show it.  JImChuk 

 

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Posted (edited)


Thanks Jim I know the small pulleys your talking about not sure I need them my cables seem fine going over top. But then again im not done yet. What I would really like to know is how much travel the flap mechanism has up and down?  On the paper I have it says something like 11.4 from floor. Not sure if that means 11.4 degrees from level with the floor.

Edited by TJay

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Posted

Don't know off hand TJay,  wish I had access to my manuals, that would probably help.  JImChuk

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Posted


Its OK Jim no worries I'm sure an hour of staring at it and ill figure it out.

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Posted (edited)

TJay,  I do remember that in the Kitfox 4 instructions, you were supposed to build a wood block that would fit around the flaperon and act as a clamp.  Using that, the flaperon was held in such a way that the cord of the wing and the cord of the flaperon were parallel with each other.  Then the angles of the mixer arms were set as shown in that instruction sheet you have sitting on your work bench in one of the pictures. ( the picture showing the materials before they are cut and welded together).  JImChuk

Another thought, it may be that the horns on the flaperons are not be set at the same angles like they were on the older Kitfoxes.  Don't know this for sure, but something to consider, and perhaps look into and double check.  If that is the case, anyone with a finished Kitfox 4 should be able to give a quick look at their plane and see if there is a difference...  Anyone, anyone?  :-)

Edited by 1avidflyer
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Posted

There is a difference.  When I went over to help Bob with his I noticed that right off the bat and questioned him on it.  He pulled out the book and showed me because I might have mentioned that he was getting old and loosing his mind :lmao:

 

:BC:

 

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Posted


There on the list to switch.

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Posted (edited)


From Bob.

 

 

mod IV flaperon measurements.jfif

mod IV flaperon measurements.jpeg

Edited by akflyer
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Posted (edited)


Thanks Jim I know the small pulleys your talking about not sure I need them my cables seem fine going over top. But then again im not done yet. What I would really like to know is how much travel the flap mechanism has up and down?  On the paper I have it says something like 11.4 from floor. Not sure if that means 11.4 degrees from level with the floor.

My manual and build photos went with my Model 4 when I sold it, but I still have a few other photos.  It means to set the top of the aileron/flap mixer horn at 11.4 or something degrees in relation to the cabin floor.  So, level the fuselage, then use an angle finder or smart level to set the mixer horn when rigging the flaperons.  That's the aileron/flap mixer horn in the center of the first photo.

The small holes in the various parts are where to center the lightening holes if you put them in.

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Edited by tcj
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Posted


A word of caution.  Some people have used the wrong type of rod ends on the connections between the stick and the aileron bellcrank.  That connection needs to be able to rotate as the stick is pulled back and pushed forward.  The correct rod ends have a narrow shoulder.  There have been at least two instances where the wide shoulder type rod ends were used and they broke in flight. Both landed safely using rudder alone to bank the plane but it was extremely hairy.

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