I realized that I never updated on this. It turned out that the pump was bad. I ordered a rebuild kit and replaced everything even though none of the old parts looked bad in any way. I know that it was the pump however because when I got it done I found that the fuel pressures were very steady on the gauge. Before I rebuilt it I always had some fluctuation on the gauge that I assumed was normal. With the new parts in the pump the gauge reading at cruise is very steady. It varies with RPM, but once an engine speed is selected the fuel pressure is steady. The pulse pump will be on an every year rebuild cycle since it is only $15 for a genuine Mikuni rebuild kit.
Not sure what I'm doing different, but I have one on the Kitfox, and 3 others on lawn maintenance equipment. Over the years I have had others as well. All have worked great. Some are/were stored outside and I have never had a issue with any of them. Of the 4 I currently have, I have one genuine tiny tach and 3 import copies. The import ones you can change the battery. On the genuine one if the internal battery dies then that's it since it isn't replaceable. @Yamma-Fox - I have that same digital hall effect tach on my milling machine. On that it works excellent.
Personally I don't see why any twist is required. A rectangular wing planform stalls root first naturally and progresses out to the tips. Twist is generally to prevent tip stall, but can be for performance. On a kitfox I can't see twist helping performance much if at all. I also have a Sonerai with rectangular wing and that one has no twist and stalls fine with no crazy wing drop. Since I'm not building from scratch I won't be changing what I have, but if I were building from scratch I may just leave the twist out.
If possible, I would personally stick to the same covering system. If it is polyfiber with a polytone top finish it is very easy to stay with polyfiber, and the color should match. The only reason I would switch from what is already there is if it is problematic to stay with the polyfiber system. The only reason that would be the case is if the top coat color is aerothane or something other than polytone. To tell the truth, even if the top coat was aerothane I would still stay with the same covering system.
Inspection covers are placed in order to inspect or perform maintenance. On a Piper for example they are placed to get at the drag and anti-drag wire fittings, bellcranks, pulleys, etc. On a kitfox there are riveted and bonded drag/anti-drag tubes, not wires with clevises, and a kitfox has no internal wing controls. With a removable wingtip, you can see down through the entire structure. If you want a closer look, you can buy a USB inspection camera that can be inserted from the removable tip to look at any spot in a kitfox wing. I recently bought one for about $20. Also, even on production airplanes many of the inspection rings are placed in case of needed maintenance but not cut out until needed, hence no cover. I would not be putting a bunch of inspection covers on just to satisfy an inspection cover happy A&P.
If it is an experimental amateur-built then anyone can do all of the maintenance with the exception of the annual condition inspection. That needs either the original builder with the repairman certificate for that specific airplane, or an A&P. The A&P dos not have to have an inspection authorization. For doing all of the maintenance except the condition inspection you aren't required to have any specific training. For an ELSA you would be required to take training for each ELSA for which you get a repairman certificate. I believe it is a 16 hour course.