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The Kitfox Model 4 horizontal stab is adjustable with 3 holes on the front mount.  I drilled the top hole with the front of the stab as high as it can go.  That made the  hole 1/4 inch below the bottom of the vertical fin. The other two holes are 7/16 inch center to center from the hole above them.

The manual says most fly best in the top hole.  I made the first flight with the stab in the top hole.  It took one finger slight back pressure to fly level in the top hole.  I moved it down to the middle hole and it took very slight forward pressure for level flight.  I left it there as the design is to trim with flaperons.  Everything you load in the plane moves the CG back And flaperons trim the nose down.

I calibrated my smart level for zero degrees on the cabin floor which is the leveling point for the Kitfoxes.  The middle hole is 2.8 degrees down.  Top hole is 1.5 degrees down.  I can't check the bottom hole but suspect the same increase in down incidence.

WalMart sells a 18"x18" transparent teflon "Non-stick pressing sheet" for about $10, works great.

How do I get the 250 to you.  Do you have paypal?  My email is jeff@aklinebuilders.com .  I will send the shipping once you have a dollar amount for me.

Dang beat me to it Luke.

That sounds fair to me. I can take pictures of the the stick assembly if you want. They are basically as there came from the factory except for some extra dust. Everything has been stored indoors, so there is not rust on it as far as I can see.

How about 250 for the stick assembly and the mixer stuff and Ill pay shipping.

Thanks

I have no idea how to price something like this. I did pay a bit for the Avid kit though, and it would be nice to get something for the parts I'm not using. I see that an old style KF mixer was sold on here in the past:

http://www.avidfoxflyers.com/index.php?/topic/888-flaperon-mixer-control-assembly/

It was listed for $350 + shipping. Not sure if that's what it sold for though. Let me know what you think would be fair. I wouldn't expect to get that much for it. I've also got a set of MK IV rudder pedals with hydraulic brakes that I'm not using. I'd like the keep the flaperon handle though to incorporate into the new design. My stick assembly will be up for grabs as well. It would work well with the flaperon mixer.

How much for the control sticks and the attached thing.  Don't know what its called.

Definitely, I don't see it being a problem.

Thanks

Looks like you have a line on some parts - I would be interested in following the progress / results of your modifications.

Do you also have the flap handle and tube going to mixer control?  I would also be interested in the controls that bolt to the floor for aileron and rudder control.

THanks

_{Thanks for all the feedback.  I am using the 21 Century iron and it works great,  Just to make sure I have this correct.  No ironing on the tapes unless I need to put down the edges (I.e. no ironing on the main portion of the tape)?}

Correct

The other bell cranks would be nice.  What is your price.

THanks

I would be interested in this too. I am putting KF wings on an Avid fuse, but when I went to measure some local Kitfoxes, they had the all moving HS. The angle of an Avid doesn't really help because the wing airfoil and angle are all different.

Here are some pictures, but they were with my cell phone, so not that great. The mixer is attached to the mounting tubes which I removed from the plane. I'm planning a different system. Both bell cranks are also attached. I could also include the other two pushrods that go to both of those bell cranks if that would help. I didn't think of that when I took the picture.

I would be interested in all of the flaperon mixer control pieces, include the flap handle and the push rods to the flaperon.

THanks

Hi,  Yes please sent push rods.  Send me a picture of what you got and we can close a deal.

Thanks

Does anyone know the factory angle of incidence for the horizontal tail of a Model IV.  We're doing some repair work....

_{Thanks for all the feedback.  I am using the 21 Century iron and it works great,  Just to make sure I have this correct.  No ironing on the tapes unless I need to put down the edges (I.e. no ironing on the main portion of the tape)?}

_{Thanks again,}

_{Larry S.}

TJay,

The Black Baron from Aircraft Spruce worked good for me and it's about $24

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/pages/to/irons/iron.php

The plastic idea works good, but "oven bags" work even better...they are thin and can handle the heat. You can find them at Walmart near aluminum foil and wax paper. I used the oven bags when I found a pinked edge sticking up after putting poly brush on everything (primer coat for Superflite).

Larry,

I'm sure you already know this, but watch your heat closely when ironing your tapes (if using unshrunk tapes). It is easy to overheat them and get a funky line.

Good luck!

Ron

I have some clear plastic, maybe about 20 mil thickness. I cut some pieces of it about 6" x 24" and laid them over the finishing tapes that needed to be ironed down. Useing the plastic, the iron didn't stick to the poly brush but the heat transferred thru the plastic. Used 3or4 pieces of plastic, by the time I ironed the last piece of plastic down, the first piece was cooled and would pop off the surface of the fabric. Worked way better than ironing right onto the fabric. Jim Chuk

Make me an offer on all the parts. I don't have the fund to rebuild and have run into a road block on ever getting it back in the air. I may post up more information on that later but for now I don't feel like talking about it.

Iron down all the pinked edges if they are raised, or they will show through the final color.

…don't feed the lib-tard trolls.

This is good stuff, I dont want to steal this thread but what are the smaller irons you guys are using, I would like to buy one but dont know what to get, when I covered my fisher avenger I borrowed one, dont have a clue what it was but but it worked fine. what you all think. I see the 21st century one you mentioned. it looks nice