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Kool paint job Ron,

There is a doctor here in St. Louis who has his Cessna 172 painted like a bumblebee from nose to tail - even has eyes - stands out in a crowd.

Assembly is the last fun part before flying. Cant wait to see it all together.

Good Flying,

EDMO

just ran across these servos and thought someone might have a need for one, thats a whole lot cheaper than what I paid http://www.ebay.com/itm/Experimental-Aviation-Linear-Servos-MAC-1-16-second-40lb-Pull-NEW-Aircraft-/111608924415?pt=Motors_Aviation_Parts_Gear&hash=item19fc6908ff&vxp=mtr

Well, it's official...I'm finished painting!!!

I painted the stripes on the fuselage today and if the weather will cooperate I will roll everything outside and tear down my spray booth so I have some room to start putting her back together.

I'm going with a "Super Bee" theme and decided use vertical stripes like the WWII Army Air Corp gliders and cargo aircraft.

I like how it turned out...different...

I just let mine leak. 

On my bucket list as well!!

I would have been tempted to take it to him, It's probably about 250 miles from me. I had the paint already, and the sandblasting was almost done a year ago, and I just had to get to the last of it. Actually, I had found a rusted tube in the tail, and had to replace that, and the project ended up on the back burner. As long as I had to replace tubing, I ended up widening the fuselage at the doors 1 1/2" on each side. Added 7' of 1/2" tubing on each side. Basically it follows the door frame, and is standard width at front of door, and at the top back of door. Angles out 1 1/2" from front of door to back bottom of door, parallels the door frame up to the next tubing joint, and then angles back to the original top of the door frame. I'll have to post some pics once it's painted. As far as powercoating goes, I've heard of rust getting under it and progressing further from it's starting point till one might have a big area of rust, and not even know it. I guess it's very important that it doesn't have any cracks in the finish where the rust could start. Any body have any thoughts on that?? Or the original question for that matter? Jim Chuk

Thanks Jim.

well if thats not motivation I don't know what is. This is practically my backyard can't wait for all the snow to melt around here. This will be our first summer with the avid flying and I can't wait to take my wife on some fly in camping trips.

Call Larrys powdercoating guy!

Hi all, I've been finishing the sandblasting on a Avid fuselage and this evening I shot on a coat of acid etching primer. I was using a small touch up gun, it's small and holds maybe 1/2 cup in the pot. It sure is a pain in the rear shooting all those little tubes. Seemed impossible not to get runs in the paint. Good thing most of it will end up covered and not be seen. My main concern is rustproofing, and looks come in second to that. I think I will have the rustproofing taken care of, I'm putting an epoxy over this primer tomorrow. Any body got any tips on painting a fuselage that works for them? I think it would be great to have an electrostatic gun for this stuff, but I might blow the garage up with what I was using. Any ideas?? Jim Chuk

I go over the Sierra mountains over 10K fully loaded with my 582 all the time. Invest in a Hacman. You won't be below 5K your entire Idaho visit and will see 10k daily while out there unless you want to fly drainages the whole time which is really hard to Nav thru if you don't know the area.

within the next couple years, I'll be there...

I'm aiming for the fall of 2016.

I would love to spend a couple weeks there with my kitfox and a tent but getting there would be a bit tricky 900nm from me and Rockey mountains in between, not sure the 582 would do a 9000 ft pass crossing.  You guys would know more than me.

I've done 3 trips to the Idaho Backcountry in my Avid. It HAS to be on your bucket list!!

If you are referring to the seal on a C gear box, I have used the cheap seal with no problems. Not a lot that holds the seal in place, I used some Loctite sealant that bonds once it sets up. Don't remember the # of the loctite off hand though. Jim Chuk

Rotax parts are outrageous in price. The o rings on a 912 cost for one is about what Mcmaster Carr charges for a large pack of them. Don't think there is anything wrong with the Mcmaster Carr ones, same material I think....

Great Vid

This one is for you Mr. Paul S, So I spent a couple hours today mounting a bearing on a Hinge. Got one side all finished up and found after installed if I push Up ward pressure on the control horn the hinge pin would move up and down about 1/32 of an inch, not acceptable in my book. So back to square 1, thought about what Paul S. said build it to the manual it Should work, Ha OK so I dug out some of the papers that ED sent me and sure enough there was a pattern for making one, built it and clamped it to the airframe,  it works, Here is the problem I was having I did not realize I needed to trim the back side of the flaperon off, that was in more papers that Ed sent me, once that was done I can now pivot the flaperon down to clear the cam lock while folding the wing, So there it is Paul you were right thanks.

I have a slight oil seep from the seal at the rear of the prop shaft seal No.950-200 which is a 30x52x7 oil seal. The Rotax part is a little over $100.00 but a seal that size can be purchased for under $15. Has anyone used seals other than the Rotax seal with good results for this or other seals?

Get your reps phone and fax number here.

http://www.contactingthecongress.org

I can't say for sure about the KF1 but the Avid's lower bearing works just fine when built to plans and the wing hinges without problems. I don't fold my wings but when I built the plane I did check to see that it operated properly so I would be able to fold the wings if I wanted to.

Good point Larry.

Its not my video but If you have 40 minutes you should watch it, it is really nice flying.

Bill,I would like to hear from those who have flown both wings to get an accurate comparison.I have never flown the Speedwing, but we flatland flyers don't need the VSTOL that the sandbar and pothole flyers need. A little speed gain is good for longer trips, but maybe cuts down on GW, and is a few mph faster on landings?My buddy who owns the J3 keeps wanting to do something to slow down his stall speed - I keep telling him that he needs a drag chute to get any slower! It lands slower than the shortwing Pipers, but sure don't cruise as fast.EDMO

Ed I would be tickled to death if these speed wings land like a j3.

I have been told one of the largest issues with the short, speed wing is the lack of climb.

The one that was on my field, with two on board and a fresh 582, could barely manage 300 fpm on a cool day. (1300' field elevation)

300' per minute climb seems rather dismal.

We built ours with an extended HH speedwing and love it. still very dirty (no fairings anywhere lots of gaps to fill still) and it performs well for its current configuration- empty weight 526 lbs rotax 582 w B box and ivo 68" 3 blade. I've only made it out once since the new prop so don't have to many real numbers yet but I can easily be on and off the ground in 500' solo I'm seeing 1000 fpm climb and 80-85 indicated with my wife and 20 gal of fuel we still climb out at 600 fpm and cruise at 75 indicated. once I get the leading edge cuffs, fairings, and gap seals on I will see even better. only have about 45 hrs TT so far but we are happy with it. Note all of these numbers are without flaps I still haven't played with them too much. I believe leni has flown both wings and has liked both. I'm sure he will share his experience.

Seems that would be the best of both wings and is what I would do if starting from scratch. My wings are built already and covered. Would love to hear first hand experience of the flying qualities of the standard speedwing.

Thanks

Bill