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Activity Stream



  1. dholly added a post in a topic One of my boys and my C build.   

    Hi Dale-

    I just used a sanding drum on a dremel to notch the rib web to allow for the drag tube interference. Only needed about 1/2"-3/4" IIRC. Then I used Hysol to stick small plywood gusset reinforcements made from my leftover floorboards to the drag tube and rib web. I also glued ply gussets between the spar and drag tubes for extra strength.

    If you saw some of my early photos showing the mixer in my Avid+, you are correct about them showing the cables crossing. Randy was the first one to the final rigging steps and figured that didn't work out too good pretty quickly, lol. I think it is funny how may times I looked at that new mixer setup, even mocked it up, but never noticed because I didn't connect the flaperons.
    Good eye, my apologies if I have caused the confusion!
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  2. C150L added a post in a topic One of my boys and my C build.   

    Another question but one above is more urgent.

    We relocated the mixer to under the LH seat as seen in man a photo here and elsewhere. In many of those photos seen on the net, it appears that the push/pull cables cross, such that the RH bell crank in the mixer goes to the left flapperon and vice versa.

    Well, if such is the case, the arms which the linkages hook to on the end of our (found) flaperons are mounted off the front (I think) of the flaperon tube. Thus, cris crossing of the cables will make the flaperons move opposite the direction they should. Easy fix if we swap those arms and have the cable hook up behind the flaperon. (Keep in mind, I might have the current config of the arm on the end of the flaperon tube backwards from actual as I have not looked at them recently.)

    If anything above in those situation seems correct or familiar, let me take it a bit further. If we leave as is and do not cross the cables, the flap handle will be pulled up/back to lower the flaperons. If we swap the flap control arms, cross the cables, then it appears the flap handle will be moved forward/down to lower.

    Not sure the reason for crossing those control cables if that is what I've seen in some pictures. Only thing I could think of, those push/pull cables have more capacity to pull than push and maybe it's preferable to pull a flaperon down VS the cable pushing it down.

    Gosh, must sound like I'm lost in this wing/control system. Not necessarily, been a while since I looked into these things and have not given a lot of thought for some time now.

    Again, thanks for any input with this one.
    Dale
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  3. C150L added a post in a topic One of my boys and my C build.   

    Maybe I should search, but will ask first.

    We have our first wing glued up (except for the fuel tank) but something has had me wondering. This was a STOL wing, with one short rib between each long rib. In these STOL wings, the drag tubes (diag braces)run from the rear spar, through the center hole in the short rib (barely) then attach next to the next long rib on the front spar.

    In the HH STOL wings we're making, there are 2 short ribs between each set of long ribs. Per the Avid (and Mohawk) build manuals, the drag tubes run the same way only they run through those 2 short ribs. Problem is, the tube runs through/into the vertical web of the rib.

    Anyone have thoughts or knowledge of alternatives which would eliminate the need to route these drag tubes so far into that vertical web of the rib?

    Any thoughts/suggestions always appreciated.

    Thanks,
    Dale
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  4. EDMO added a post in a topic Fuel Tank Coating   

    I'm with Chris on this - There were tests done years ago using E-gas in Aeroquip hoses and the hoses failed - anyone using moonshine gas needs to go to automotove hoses, like Gates, or whatever that is alcohol proof.
    I am going to try to use my F/G tanks as is, and try to avoid alcohol gas when possible - If I get leaks later on, then will try sloshing or repair or replacement - probably old enough to just sell plane by the time I get it built and flying anyway!
    Mogas ate the corks on my tank gauges years ago with my Ercoupe - this was about the time they went to the sponge plastic floats in carbs that eventually got saturated and sank.
    Ed in MO
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  5. EDMO added a post in a topic Want to Rent a Plane   

    Tell Tim that I am aging faster than I am building my plane, but slowly getting it done.
    Believe Tim and daughter went into a short strip and ran out of runway and flipped his new plane - I told him I saw a picture of a plane with wheels on top of the wings so you could land upside down - probably should not have said that, but I was overjoyed at the time because they didnt get seriously hurt or killed!
    Was hoping he had rebuilt and was flying now. I left several good friends in Alaska when I moved back south.
    Tell Tim I will send him a photo when I get this new bird finished.
    ED in MO
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  6. EDMO added a topic in Avidfoxflyers General Hangar   

    GUNS OF ALASKA
    I was watching "Animal Planet Channel" last night and barely caught a glimpse of my ex-boss, Jim West, on an ad for a show to be aired Sunday, at 7 or 8 pm, CST. From the few seconds I saw the ad, I cannot tell if this is on that same channel or not. If someone gets better info, please post it.
    If this airs, then I am sure that the take-down 45/70 lever action we made and called the "CO-PILOT" will be shown, along with other guns made by WILD WEST GUNS of Anchorage.
    I have a custom Co-Pilot, with laminated, sculpured, left-hand stock that I made and might sell some day - and have the original stock to go with it. Only 18 inches long broke down.
    I would send a photo to anyone interested.
    Hope this turns out to be an interesting show to watch.
    ED in MO
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  7. lv2plyguitar added a post in a topic Want to Rent a Plane   


    Hey ED,

    Tim asked how your doing. Tim is out of loop because he crashed his Glasstar in 2009. Would be interested to know what happen for my education.

    Thanks
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  8. ChrisBolkan added a post in a topic Fuel Tank Coating   


    One other thing to consider. All of the lycoming literature I have says do not use ethanol fuel as the various rubber type materials in the lycoming engines is not ethanol resistant either.

    Chris
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  9. dholly added a post in a topic Fuel Tank Coating   

    Ron - I'm no fan of tank sealants, think it's better to just bite the bullet and replace the tanks if all you have is auto gas with ethanol. If you can't live with the lessor fuel quantity of the poly tanks, the new full-size wing tanks from Airdale and Kitfox use the same ethanol resistant resin (supposedly ethanol proof). Then again, it's a whole lot cheaper and easier just to limit your auto gas usage to E-0 premium if available. Here in upstate NY, it's available at marinas (89 and 91 octane) and seems to be showing up at more and more gas stations as the public outcry over the deleterious effects of alcohol have become known. If I was hell-bent on sloshing my tanks, all my research pointed to a 2-part phenol novolac epoxy sealer. Did you read thru THIS THREAD?
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  10. ChrisBolkan added a post in a topic Fuel Tank Coating   


    I'm firmly in the "don't do it" camp. If your tank(s) are currently leaking I would open them up, repair the leak and seal the tank back up to fix the leak. I did that with great success on my Magnum.

    prior to repairing my tanks I did a bunch of testing of various coatings on samples of the fiberglass substrate the tanks are made of, soaking them in pure ethyl alcohol, E10 gas, pure auto gas and av gas, as well as various additives like Seafoam and Marvel mystery oil.

    I found that even if you coat the tanks with a completely ethanol proof coating like phenolnovalac epoxy, there WILL be a spot that doesn't get covered. That spot may be at the tank penetration or somewhere else. Where ever it is, the ethanol (E-10 which was the worst of all of the substances I tested on the fiberglass) will get in behind the coating, soften the fiberglass and weaken the bond. The coating will eventually separate.

    I believe if it isn't broken, don't fix it, and if it is broken, just fix it, but do not try to turn the original tank into something it was never intended to be. You will need to find a source for ethanol free mo gas or use Av gas. Neither of those damaged my fiberglass samples.

    Somewhere else on this site (can't remember where) I uplaoded some pictures of the repair I did on my Magnum tanks. I think it turned out great looking and very functional in that it could be repaired again if need be. However, I did not coat the tanks and I only run av gas or ethanol free mo gas.

    Good luck what ever you choose to do!

    Chris Bolkan
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  11. dholly added a post in a topic Bondo or something lighter?   

    Lots of builders use Super Fill or West Systems Epoxy with Micro Balloons to lighten the mix. Excellent adhesion and workability but expensive. Can add cotton flox or talc to lighten/stretch even further with minimal impact to strength or adhesion. Epoxy can be a real PITA to sand though...

    There are several lightweight 2-part epoxy auto body fillers that won't absorb water like regular Bondo, sand easier and won't break the bank, that's what I used on a leading edge repair recently (pic). Probably be fine to add micro balloons, flox or talc to these body fillers as well if you are weight conscious.

    Link to fillers --> Click here

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  12. RDavidson added a post in a topic Fuel Tank Coating   


    Thanks Paul and Ed...that sealed the deal for me, no pun intended. I'm going to order it now!

    Ron
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  13. SuberAvid added a post in a topic Skunkworks - Electrical/ Weight Saving   

    Ed, another thing I used in my plane that I am really impressed with are two primary flight instruments from MGL Avionics. The Velocity Singles are made to fit a 3 1/8 hole and using two gauges, the E1-EMS and Flight-2, they give you all the info you need for VFR flight and a bunch more; plus are backlit, extremely light and relatively inexpensive.


    http://www.mglavionics.com/html/velocity_singles.html
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  14. SuberAvid added a post in a topic Skunkworks - Electrical/ Weight Saving   



    http://www.ztronlabs.com/
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  15. SuberAvid added a post in a topic Skunkworks - Electrical/ Weight Saving   


    Hi Ed, Here are the links:


    http://earthxmotorsports.com/
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  16. EDMO added a post in a topic Want to Rent a Plane   

    Maybe you can use the info of who you found to help another flyer who is in need of the same in your area?
    Is his light sport comparable with the Kitfox / Avid? There are big differences in LSA's.
    Good Flying,
    ED in Mo
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  17. wypaul added a post in a topic Fuel Tank Coating   


    I used the Caswell sealer and would recommend it. I have not used fuel with alcohol but this stuff will stand up. The mix is critical so get one kit per tank. I used one kit for two tanks but the mix was a little off and it took several days to setup. I do have a ongoing test with 1 1/2 years of the epoxy soaking in Gasohol and it is holding up.

    Here is a link:

    http://www.caswellplating.com/restoration-aids/epoxy-gas-tank-sealer.html

    Paul S
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  18. EDMO added a post in a topic Want to Rent a Plane   

    Get in contact with EAA Chapter 42 in Anchorage - Tim Rittal, Real Estate Broker, was the President, and he has his plane at Birchwood - there may be some members who can help you - Believe there may be some Kitfox or Avid owners at Birchwood or Merrill field. It is not illegal to fly with them and pay for the gas.
    There were letters of deviance that were issued to some flying instructors that lets them use their planes, but you would have to get the ruling from the FAA or EAA as to who and what is authorized.
    Tell Tim that Ed Ashby referred you to him for help. He should be in Anchorage phone book: Real Estate Brokers.
    Good Flying,
    ED in MO
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  19. lv2plyguitar added a post in a topic Want to Rent a Plane   



    Just found an instructor with a light sport aircraft.

    Thanks
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  20. Av8r3400 added a post in a topic Want to Rent a Plane   

    It's not legal, in the US, to rent an Experimental Amateur Built aircraft. You will need to find an SLSA - factory built - aircraft on a flight line somewhere.

    There is a company that specializes in Kitfox training in Idaho - Stick and Rudder Aviation.

    Are you just looking for transition training or do you need to start/finish your certificate?
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  21. lv2plyguitar added a topic in Avidfoxflyers General Hangar   

    Want to Rent a Plane
    I am in Wasilla Alaska and I am looking for someone in Alaska who wants to rent their light sport (preferably Kitfox or Avid) to me on an hourly basis for my instructor to give me instruction. I would need to fly it 20 hrs or less with the instructor. The instructor has 46000 hours of flying time. Let me know what your hourly rate would be. Of course I would pay for the gas as well. The plane would need a certificate of airworthiness.


    Thanks
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  22. EDMO added a post in a topic Skunkworks - Electrical/ Weight Saving   

    HEADLINES: BOEING 787 LITHIUM BATTERY ON FIRE !!!! Are we really sure about these?
    ED in MO
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  23. EDMO added a post in a topic Fuel Tank Coating   

    The only thing I have heard positive reports on is CASWELL - Not used it yet, but motorcycle buddy has.
    $40 per tank, I think.
    ED in MO
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  24. EDMO added a post in a topic Skunkworks - Electrical/ Weight Saving   

    Randy,\
    I would like to hear more or get more info on this new electronic whiz-bang stuff - how about part numbers and sources, photos?, and a report on how all this works when you know.
    ED in MO
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  25. RDavidson added a topic in Avid Flyer General Hangar   

    Fuel Tank Coating
    Fellas,

    I hate to start a redundant topic, but I was wondering if things had changed.

    Are you guys coating your fiberglass tanks?

    I know about the wing tanks that you can put inside the shell of your fiberglass tanks, but I would rather not loose the couple of gallons with that mod.

    I have a Magnum with an O-320, so it's av gas for now. I would like to plan ahead for mogas. My tanks are mounted to the wing already, but the covering is not on yet. I could slosh the tank with another person or two.

    I'd like to hear from someone who has used a coating method that they are happy with. Other options are invited too, including "don't do it."


    Thanks,
    Ron
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