Activity Stream

Activity Stream



  1. EDMO added a post in a topic GRAPHITE/NYLON BUSHINGS ON ALUMINUM?   

    I found the bushings in one of my catalogs, but I don't know if Graphite will hurt aluminum. I know its OK for steel tubes.
    I think it is inert, and non-destructive, like the nylon, but I don't know for sure.
    The guy who built a tailwind used PVC pipe as his bushings, but I think this is better, and PVC pipe is not the correct sizes and would have to be machined.
    EdMO
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  2. Jbird added a post in a topic GRAPHITE/NYLON BUSHINGS ON ALUMINUM?   

    Ok I now I know what you are looking for
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  3. EDMO added a post in a topic GRAPHITE/NYLON BUSHINGS ON ALUMINUM?   

    Thanks Jbird,
    I have the nylon plates for my fuselage and turtledeck bearings, I think it is 1/4 or 3/8" thick.
    What I was asking about was the round, flanged bushings to go between my flap and aileron tubes, and also inside the hanger tubes.
    If I had my lathe going, I could make them out of nylon, but it is cheaper to buy bushings than to have them made at the local machine shops. I almost had a heart attack when I got the bill for the last job I sent to a shop!
    EdMo
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  4. Jbird added a post in a topic GRAPHITE/NYLON BUSHINGS ON ALUMINUM?   

    Ed how thick does the nylon piece need to be ? Will this work ? It's 1/4 in thick 6 in long 3in wide

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  5. EDMO added a topic in Technical tasks   

    GRAPHITE/NYLON BUSHINGS ON ALUMINUM?
    Anyone know if Graphite has any bad effects on aluminum?
    I found Graphite Impregnated round flanged Nylon bushings with 1/8" wall for my flap and aileron tubes and hangers.
    I looked for Polyethylene bushings, but only found thin ones so far.

    EdMO
    • 22 replies
    • 2,482 views


  6. dynomike added a post in a topic Subaru carb, manifold ect   

    It's the coolant lines that runs through through the manifold.either in or out of the radiator. Can't remember which
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  7. EDMO added a post in a topic ADS-B   

    No plans until mandatory - staying away from congested airspace and will shoot at drones.
    EdMO
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  8. Av8r3400 added a post in a topic Classic IV Restoration   

    The spaghetti snarl begins...
     
     

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  9. dholly added a post in a topic Classic IV Restoration   

    Well it is amazing just how fast a build goes when you have friends like Dave. I should pull my pile of parts back out to WI and live in the camper for a couple weeks, I'm sure we could knock it out in no time lol.
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  10. Av8r3400 added a post in a topic Classic IV Restoration   

     
     
    200º until the plastic starts to sag.  Then he helped it form to the mandrel with a couple of paint stirring sticks.
     
    He's done this several times.  Made his own lens for the Clipper he built a couple years back.
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  11. EDMO added a post in a topic Subaru carb, manifold ect   

    I wish I knew more about these - The manifold sure looks a lot lighter than the stock one - is that water connections for heat? I could use one for a Holly 5200 carb, or maybe an Aero TBI.
    EdMO
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  12. EDMO added a post in a topic Flaperon bearing pics   

    You can always cut down most of the forward end of the lower bearing if you need more clearance for folding.
    EdMO
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  13. KFfan added a post in a topic ADS-B   

    I plan to use the IN feature on AVARE.
    OUT requirement...I'll probably just steer clear of the areas where it is required.
     
    Lou
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  14. 1avidflyer added a topic in 4-strokes   

    Subaru carb, manifold ect
    I bought some Subaru parts off of barnstormers that showed up today.  Anyone have any experience with similar ones?  I believe the manifold and water tank are made by Ram Performance.  The carb is a Rev flow 36 MM from revmaster.  Good, bad, or otherwise?  Jim Chuk




    • 25 replies
    • 4,835 views


  15. KFfan added a post in a topic Idle Brain B4 The Holiday   

    Thanks for the responses. After posting, I read about the effect of washout and realized these airplanes have that design feature. I think I remember a few posts here that guys were, civilly, arguing the benefit of more and less washout.
     
    Ed
    Thanks for your attempt to get me to post more meaningful content but I think my questions, perhaps yours, have been answered.
     
    I saw on AOPA today that the FAA has authorized unmanned flight of PAPER AIRPLANES(!) yet they won't comit on the elimination of the 3rd class medical....
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  16. RDavidson added a topic in Avid Flyer General Hangar   

    ADS-B
    I saw some guys were talking about ADS-B
    I was wondering what you guys were thinking about for both in and out?

    I am going to use the I-levil AW which will receive ADS-B in and transmit the info to your hand held device of choice ipad/iphone/android devices.

    I went this route because I aso coupled a GRT-4000 EIS which the I-levil AW connects to and can display my engine info on the device I'm using.

    I went ahead and put money down on a Navworx ADS-B out device. I need to be able to climb up over the Rocky Mountains and without ADS-B out it looked like you could only get to 13K in some places.

    anyway, this was one way to crack the ADS-B nut...what are your plans?


    Ron
    • 10 replies
    • 1,586 views


  17. akflyer added a post in a topic Idle Brain B4 The Holiday   

    What Tom said.  No need for stall strips, the washout is way more than enough.  The plane gives you lots of warning before stall and even then it is more of a mush.  Even accelerated stalls are a non event if the ball is centered and again, it gives you a pretty good warning.
     
    The thin aluminum turtle deck is a good stall warning system on mine.  The wind will start burbling over it and it will rattle pretty good well before any type of break.
     
    The DYI ADSB In looks pretty easy and cool.  If we had more users here transmitting it may be worthwhile using one, but I doubt it will be of much use here for a few years.
     

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  18. tcj added a post in a topic Idle Brain B4 The Holiday   

    Stall strips cause the inboard section of the wing to stall before wing tips stall.  This gives the pilot a warning that a full stall is eminent while the wing tips are still flying and thus aileron control still available to level the plane,  while pressure on the stick is relaxed to break the stall.  Avids and kitfox accomplish this with wing twist (washout).  The inboard section has more angle of attack than the wing tips.
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  19. EDMO added a post in a topic Idle Brain B4 The Holiday   

    Lou,
    Perhaps you can post what you learned about Stall Strips.
    I got info about them in AvSchool, and have some info in books stored away.
    Best that I can remember, is that stall break may come earlier and be sharper without as much warning Also, they ensure that the inner part of the wing stalls first.
    I think they are an "add on" for more modern high-speed or swept wings that were made with too little washout.
    I like the way the old Cessna shakes a lot before the break.
    Whey would I want my bird to stall earlier and without a lot of warning?
    I have the washout in my wings, so my stall should start in the inner wing and if it doesn't just mush, would be controllable.
    EdMO
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  20. KFfan added a topic in Avidfoxflyers General Hangar   

    Idle Brain B4 The Holiday
    While reading about a DIY ADS-B in device, I tripped over a write-up about Stall Strips. I've not seen any mention of them here. I now have some insight of their purpose and use. Seeking sage info/advice about them. Are they advantageous or even needed on Avids/Foxes? Since I've not been aloft in one yet I have no sense of stall indication  in one.
     
    Thanks
    Lou
    • 4 replies
    • 714 views


  21. akflyer added a post in a topic Classic IV Restoration   

     
    Nice to have good friends!  Especially handy ones
     

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  22. EDMO added a post in a topic Classic IV Restoration   

    Larry,
    Did you ask him how long he baked them and at what temperature?
    Looks Good,
    EdMo
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  23. Av8r3400 added a post in a topic Classic IV Restoration   

    Yup. Just as I suspected. He's been up to fabricating again...

    Lenses for the landing lights in the wing tips.

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  24. EDMO added a post in a topic Powder Coating   

    I can agree with Dusty on the epoxy. I used the same blasting and painting company that did our cranes for the Coast Guard boats. They told me that the epoxy they used would stick to the blasted steel better than a self-etching primer.
    I don't care if my white epoxy gets dull in time - it still protects against corrosion. It may get another coating when I spray my fabric.
    As far as the blasting goes, I have done a lot of it with a cabinet, and the thought of doing it myself in an open space even with all the protective clothing needed was more pain than I could bear to think of - not to mention all the electric shocks you get when blasting! The thought, and costs, of spraying epoxy at home didn't appeal to me either.
    I have heard others talk about hidden corrosion under powder coating, and I can verify that it does happen under a coating of anodizing on propeller parts.
    I know little about powder coatings, except that on large flat parts that are exposed to rock or other damage, the early powder coatings I saw would peal off in sheets once delamination started. I guess that tubing that was protected by a covering of fabric might be OK. But, I have powder coated furniture and a saw stand that show rust starting under the powder coating. Maybe the Chinese are doing it wrong?
    Some have said that powder coating was hard to remove or repair
    I guess some swear by it, and others swear at it!
    EdMO
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  25. Dusty added a post in a topic Powder Coating   

    If recoating,sandblasting(low pressure garnet is best) would be the only way to go.
    I would recommend getting it sprayed with an epoxy tinted to the final colour (industrial epoxy's are self priming and most contain corrosion inhibitors)
    A very light coat of 2 pack urethane over this in visible areas will keep it looking good as epoxy will eventually dull off

    If powder coating get a zinc base first as it stops the under creep corrosion like you will typically see on cheap outdoor furniture.
    Over here powder coating is the cheapest option.
    Powdercoating is harder to get right after a repair or modification and if it has to be removed will cost at least twice as much as any other coating to remove
    I own an industrial blasting and coating business here(DUSTY!)so have a bit of experience in this area.
    Always ask the question, how will this system hold up for the next 10-15 years and after that can it be economically refurbished in damaged areas.
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