aileron idler bellcrank binding

[TJay 1041]

Got some binding going on with this Rod end, Anybody else have this issue, My first thought is to get a high misalignment rod end, anybody have any thoughts,

 

[wypaul 448]

If I recall correctly, on my Avid the u joint is turned 90 degrees so the slot that the rod end bolts into faces front and rear and the bolt is vertical and I believe the u- joint is loose so that it will rotate if it needs to. So rotate the rod end 90 degrees and retighten and make sure there is play in the u-joint so that it will function correctly.  At least that is the way I remember it.

[1avidflyer 1983]

At least on the Avids  (which have the same type linkage), sometimes the bolt or nut at the very bottom of the joystick is rubbing on the inside of the 1 1/4"? tube the joy sticks go into.  If that's the case, it's probably binding when the stick is centered and gets less as the stick it moved to either side.  Jim Chuk

[wypaul 448]

Here is the drawing for proper alignment.  Note L and M are turned 90 degrees to each other.

Edited 12 Mar 2016 by wypaul

[TJay 1041]

Here is the drawing for proper alignment.  Note L and M are turned 90 degrees to each other.

Here is the drawing for proper alignment.  Note L and M are turned 90 degrees to each other.

Thanks Ill give that a try also I see there's is on the back side of the control stick wonder if I should try that too

 

[EDMO 1078]

TJay,   I agree with the drawings above.   NOTE that the end which is connected inside the torque tube on yours is on the front, a common error,  and the drawings show it on the back side of the stick attachment.  And, the bolt / nut may need to be reversed.  Yes, the two ends should be at 90 degrees from each other.    Your Kitfox drawings should show both clearly.    EDMO

Edited 13 Mar 2016 by EDMO

[EDMO 1078]

BTW:  IMO, the small 3/16 threaded portion of this link is probably the weakest part of the control linkage - I have seen them bent, and broken at that point.   I think a 1/4" thread should have been used.   EDMO

[TJay 1041]

TJay,   I agree with the drawings above.   NOTE that the end which is connected inside the torque tube on yours is on the front, a common error,  and the drawings show it on the back side of the stick attachment.  And, the bolt / nut may need to be reversed.  Yes, the two ends should be at 90 degrees from each other.    Your Kitfox drawings should show both clearly.    EDMO

Lol (My Kitfox Drawings) thats a good one buddy, the only pages my Manual has is the cover and finish section oh and 3 pages of wing construction. the rest of the build is going off you guys pictures.

Edited 13 Mar 2016 by TJay

[EDMO 1078]

I can post the drawing for you if you want it, but it is almost the same as the later one that is already posted.    It does show the complete setup.  EDMO

[TJay 1041]

I can post the drawing for you if you want it, but it is almost the same as the later one that is already posted.    It does show the complete setup.  EDMO

No need  to I got it figured out form the pictures and you guys advice.

[EDMO 1078]

TJay - Here are the Kitfox 1 controls drawings.  Note the error of the drawing not showing the rod ends, as it should be, at 90 degrees on the part you have problems with.  EDMO

Edited 13 Mar 2016 by EDMO

[TJay 1041]

looking at the picture I am right placing the fre 48 and 49 on the front side of the control stick, the Avid drawing shows it on the rear of the stick. Hey ED does it tell you in that book what size rudder cables I need?

[EDMO 1078]

looking at the picture I am right placing the fre 48 and 49 on the front side of the control stick, the Avid drawing shows it on the rear of the stick. Hey ED does it tell you in that book what size rudder cables I need?

Actually, I think the part you are talking about goes on the back side of the control stick - at least that is the way I see it - even if you had the original drawings I posted, you would have assembled it wrong - this was a Denny error.    I will look in the book for the cable size, but think it is less than 1/8 that I plan to use.   The book says, "3/32" x 7 x 19".  Maybe later models have heavier cable?   I don't think you need 19 strands on a straight cable run, 7 x 7 should work.    EDMO

Edited 13 Mar 2016 by EDMO

[TJay 1041]

I rotated it 90 degrees and there is absolutely no binding anymore everything is smooth from stop to stop, now Since we are talking about rudder cables  would you guys recommend getting the pre stretched cables or is it not necessary. and what do you think about these ends

 http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/ms20667.php

I know they need to be done at spruce, I really think they would look nice attached to the rudder petals up front.

[EDMO 1078]

You still need some way to adjust them - I like the turnbuckles with wire clip retainers, but the flat pieces with several holes will work.  I also like stainless, since you don't have to lube it, and there is no internal corrosion.   EDMO

Edited 14 Mar 2016 by EDMO

[akflyer 1427]

I have not needed to adjust mine yet... The plates with the multiple holes seem to work fine.  Less moving parts in a system that gets stomped on a lot makes me happy.

 

[1avidflyer 1983]

I bought stainless 3/32" x 17 x 19  cable for my Avid rebuild.  I went with the un stretched cable.  I think Wicks had the best price at the time.   Jim Chuk

PS  The cables aren't tied to each other, so there is no real need for fine adjustments.  The flat straps with multiple holes work fine. 

Edited 14 Mar 2016 by 1avidflyer