plastic leading edge

[TJay 1041]

You guys have mentioned the plastic leading edge. Do you get that right through kitfox and do you know what it costs. I looked through the catalog but didn't see anything other than the fiberglass leading edge wrap that costs around $1000 bucks, don't need to spend that on my bird.

[EDMO 1078]

You guys have mentioned the plastic leading edge. Do you get that right through kitfox and do you know what it costs. I looked through the catalog but didn't see anything other than the fiberglass leading edge wrap that costs around $1000 bucks, don't need to spend that on my bird.

I don't remember exactly, but think mine was under $100 - direct from Kitfox.  They came out with the KF4.

I removed it to extend my leading edges - guess it is still useable - maybe one crack to repair - make me an offer if you cant get them anymore.  They come in 2 pieces for each wing - total of 4 pcs.  I also have template for attaching them and will include one, and instructions, and you can make more of them - you need about 4 or 6.

EDMO

Edited 18 Jan 2015 by Ed In Missouri

[High Country 69]

scroll down about half way and you will find a good picture they are part# 24019 give Kitfox a call and they will get it to you. I plan to add them to our Avid speedwing hopefully this summer.

 

http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=272933 

[EDMO 1078]

These should be put on before fabric - smooths out leading edge, but may not add much speed, but protects spar from bumps.

EDMO

[FoxDB 17]

The plastic leading edge was for use on the Mod IV wing and was never intended for Mod I thru III. I have heard somewhere that aerodynamically it makes no difference on Mod I thru III and is just cosmetic.

Dave

[EDMO 1078]

I don't see how it can help from being a little useful for flight - it adds about another inch to chord, cleans up and sharpens leading edge, and it is protection for the spar from bumping into something.

EDMO

[RDavidson 183]

Just something to mention. If you are picky and want to have the leading edge look perfectly smooth, after gluing the plastic on you will have to use a little filler where the plastic meets the aluminum. It does look fantastic and does add that little bit of protection.

I called kit fox to order it. You can have it cut into four pieces (2 for each wing) to save on shipping. I did it a couple of years ago, but $100 sounds about right.

Here are some pics of my magnum wing

Good luck,

Ron

[akflyer 1427]

Nice job fairing that LE in!  Looks very nice.

 

[EDMO 1078]

I did the same, but cut the extra 8" off, and didn't fare into wingtip. I used lightweight Bondo after gluing with 9460, but Leni says Kittyhair (?) is better.

EDMO

Edited 19 Jan 2015 by Ed In Missouri

[Luked 71]

Cost for 2 was $93.90 last year when I bought them. Nice place to work with.

[High Country 69]

Ron, very nice work thanks for sharing. I like how you faired them back in at the tips. I was planning to use filler but your way seems much nicer.

 

From what I've read from multiple sources the leading edge cuff's don't do much performance wise for the early under cambered airfoils but is supposed to be a little gain for the flat bottom airfoil. Regardless of the performance gains or lack there of I think it makes the wing look nicer and is protection for the spar should you bump it into a hanger door frame or something. just my .02 I'm planning to glue them on to my already finished wings this summer and just wrap a piece of tape over them and paint. 

 

-Robert-

[RDavidson 183]

Robert,

I think that would work, just use duct tape not masking...Ha! Just kidding I know what you meant.

I have to give credit to Ivan Allen, another Magnum builder, he showed me the flaring trick and it worked really well. I used UPOL light weight filler for the bigger filling jobs, but for smaller filling jobs UPOL Glazing Putty in the squeeze bottle is great! It cures really fast and is waterproof.

Good luck,

Ron

[TJay 1041]

I sure like how Ron flared out that leading edge here, when you do it that way, does that mean you have to fabric that wing tip, I have the drooped tips for mine not sure how that will go, I thought you fabric then install the wing tip. Then finish tape from the wing onto the tip edge covering the rivets. Any suggestions?

[1avidflyer 1983]

On the kitfoxes, the wing is covered, and the tip is screwed on afterwards. It can even be removed later if one wants. ON the Avids, the wing tip is part of the covered wing. Hope that was clear ) I tried to find a picture that shows the Avid wing tip better, but this is as close as I could find just now. Jim Chuk

Edited 4 Mar 2015 by Jim Chuk

[KFfan 151]

Uhhh, those look more like floats  

[dholly 718]

This shows the way Avid non-removable tips are installed. While you can see the extruded pvc leading edge in the pic, Avid never included that in their build materials or instructions.

[dholly 718]

After some thought, I decided to fit a set of KF Hoerner style tips to my Avid+ for easy removal (these tips will not work with Avid or KF under cambered rib profiles). No extensive fairing or fancy transition needed for the extruded leading edge with this setup, it simply butts up against the tip which is shaped to match with a bit of superfil.

[dholly 718]

This shows how the fixed tips are finished on my Aerotrek. Fabric glued and taped directly to tip than painted.

[EDMO 1078]

Doug,

I have a set of Hoerner style tips - Donno if Kitfox or someone else sold them, but think they were from Kitfox - they don't look as heavy as your tips, and will bend to fit either the straight, Riblett, or Eppler Undercambered wings. I'm not going to use them, as Cessna 182 tips are longer and fit my extended wing chord. Mine will be removable.

I also have a set of used Kitfox droop tips for sale.

EDMO

Edited 4 Mar 2015 by Ed In Missouri

[dholly 718]

Ed - If they are the KF Hoerner tips for models 4-7, I might be interested in buying them to replace the droop tips on my KF4. They were originally supplied split at the trailing edge specifically for the new Riblett airfoil, flexible yes but not easily fit to the under cambered KF 1-3 or Avid HH/STOL ribs without a bunch of added work. I tried on my Avid Mk-IV and said fuggitaboutit.

[TJay 1041]

Thanks guys

[EDMO 1078]

Doug,

I cant say what model these are for - they could have come from Kitfox - I have tried them on my undercambered and they fit OK - they can be bent easily to fit the Riblett, but look, as molded, for the undercambered. Someone cut them to chord-length already. I think there was a Service Letter from Kitfox to put Hysol inside at the outer seam to strengthen them? I had the light standoffs for them, but think I sold them to an Avid builder - Donno if I have another pair - Kitfox still sells them, I think.

I think I already have an offer to buy them, but if he don't take them soon, you can buy them.

EDMO

Edited 5 Mar 2015 by Ed In Missouri

[EDMO 1078]

I sure like how Ron flared out that leading edge here, when you do it that way, does that mean you have to fabric that wing tip, I have the drooped tips for mine not sure how that will go, I thought you fabric then install the wing tip. Then finish tape from the wing onto the tip edge covering the rivets. Any suggestions?

TJay,

You can either blend your leading edge before it gets to the wingtip joint, or cut it square at that joint, and have the option to put the blended part on your tips. Either way will work.

My tips will attach to an aluminum angle riveted to the tip rib and using rivnuts and screws to make it removable.

EDMO

Edited 5 Mar 2015 by Ed In Missouri