wypaul

I would get a length of 5/8” 4130 tubing either .058 or .065 the ID’s are .509 or .495 respectively.  You might have to ream the .065 slightly but see what would work best with your axle.

I used that tire on my Q2 it is not a tube/pneumatic tire but termed a semi-pneumatic tire.  It worked very nice, wore well and handled great.  

There are several Polyfiber and Stewart’s System videos on YouTube and also the EAA SITE has several.

I will have to look and see if there is a tag but I would guess a couple of amps.  I known I checked it out when I bought but that has been 7 or so years ago.

no it’s just the seat cover style.

Hey Jim I was out flying for a couple of hours, 10F.  Not to bad with my good old electric seat heater from Wally World.  Have you tried them? For about $15 they are a pretty good bargain.

Fantastic progress!

No, sorry that was 20+ yrs ago and so would not relate to now anyway.  If I were doing it today knowing what I know, I would just sculpt the whole cowl from scratch.  I’ve built a couple of cowls since and it is probably easier without the bowl but the bowl does fit the plenum with a fair amount of fiddling to get it placed.  6 x6 overall. At any rate it will be a fun project. 
PS I am talking about a FG COWL.  If you are stuck on using metal, the nose bowl make since.

Yes I believe I would do the same.  If you would need to buy the ring mount for a 1000 USD, NO, you can have a mount built for less than that.  I do have a ring mount and the rest of the mount for a Zenith 701 but I haven’t decided to let it go yet.

If it were me and building a new mount, I would build a bed mount like the Zenith 750.  It is good to know what muffler you plan to use before designing a mount.  The original mount for the MK IV WAS PART OF THE COMPLETE firewall forward package which included the mount, the muffler exhaust cowling, etc.  One of the things I don’t like about the original is the ignition modules and coils are mounted on the motor mount.  So what I am saying is maybe the original mount without the rest of the parts my not be the best way to go but is doable. Not really what you asked, just maybe something to ponder. 
the pix below is of a bed mount a friend built for a different aircraft.

The brushless motor I run does not like the speed controller, burned out the first one.  I have been running the new one with out it and it is holding up.  First one ran about a year is all.

Nice to be reminded I'm  not the Lone Ranger in this department, I'm feeling It Jim.  Hope the new fan cuts the muster.

Jabiru sold them, I don't know if they still do but I would nut be surprised if they do, they fit the plenums.

I used a nose bowl on my Q2 when I put aJabiru 3300 in it and then finished with fiberglass.  Worked out ok I think but if I had it to do over I would just scratch build it with fiberglass.  Do you have the MK IV cowl, seems like that would work. Do you have the air duct/ plenums for the cylinders, they work great.  I don't know if John is still around he may have some thoughts and of course Jim C

It is possible to get a new registration by claiming that it is built from parts.  The seller sold it as parts so that is a route to consider.  The VW 1830 is a marginal engine for the Avid.  The weight to power ratio stinks .  If you are interested is moving forward have a chat wit a couple of DAR's to explore this option.  You have the mount for the 582 that would be a better option and would help in your quest with the DAR.  OTHERWISE you can sell the plane as parts and take the beating. I can understand the seller saying it is a safety issue with that engine, maybe contacting the seller letting him know that you will remove the VW and returning to the Rotax he would be open to passing the registration. 

With that heavy engine on the front I would want to see some weight added to the tail for proper W/B.  What does that plane weigh?  I'm guessing around 600 lbs?

Part # 30103013 for the fan that I have.  I usually don't fly much below 20F. I haven't made an effort to seal up the cabin and usually plan on wearing clothes to walk out.  It is pretty desolate out here not much for ranches or anyway to get out of the wind.

Hey Jim, here is what I'm using for my heater, the fan is really powerful.  The radiator is an aluminum heater core from Napa and under 20$. The part number is clearly visible in the picture.  Just built a FG shroud that fit over the core and mounted the fan over that.

Fan and fitting are from UPI

Wow this thread has had over 9 million views.  Must be something going on there,!

Are you just wanting to measure the angle of incidence that your plane was built to? The reference line you seek is the bottom of the door opening (sill).  To establish a parallel chord line for the wing, the front spar is 2 1/2" so the center point would be 1 1/4" and the thickness at the trailing edge assuming it is 1/4" ( you make the actual measurement of your wing) then subtract one half of that measurement from the front measurement in this example 1 1/4" - 1/8" = 1 1/8".  So with a straightedge attach a 1 1/8" block to the trailing edge end and place the straightedge spanning forward to the spar.  With the aircraft leveled to the door sill now measured the angle across the straightedge at the wing root with your smart level.  

Hope this is what you are looking for, if not please explane what you are trying to do so that your question maybe answered correctly.

Took this photo the other day while skiing.

I just don't recall what it had for floats.  I sold the Q2 a year and a half ago and didn't have the bowl off for several years before that.  Never paid much attention to them probably because there were no issues.  I did change the float needle a few times.

Thanks Jim, fortunately Rotax is replacing them for free.  I didn't have any issues with my Jabiru 3300 either.

SOLD

For sale Zipper kit piston and cylinders 105 hp used 3000 USD PLUS shipping. 274 hrs will include new pushrods seals

912a  ser# 4005412 set up for Avid motor mount (not included) 5000 USD plus shipping 670 hrs includes oil tank with quick drain valve, voltage regulator radiator and oil  cooler not included

above togather 7500 USD Zipper kit currently installed on the 912.

i also have a Warpdrive prop hub to fit the above engine for sale W/O blades.

Removed from my Avid and crated a couple of years ago when I bought the ULS. I will be posting this on Barnstormers probably tomorrow. 

SB 912-074 for the 912's and I believe there is one for the 582's also.  The bad floats are marked with a B which is b for bad, the new ones are marked R.  Seems like it's time to get this taken care of.  Weighed mine and one set weighed 9 g and the other weighed 11g with 7 g as the cutoff for a good set of floats.  The good news Rotax will replace them for free thru 2021, bad news is that they are back ordered.  

Marvel makes a set of blue floats for the 912 but these weigh over 7g out of the box and I read that at least one user found there were issues with rough running also

Jim I went to the EMS-2 Blaze and it is really much nicer, easier to read more functions etc.

Rhine just about any monitor will work with any engine, find the features at the price range that suits you and go for it. 

Those co-pilots look like they have lots of character, all bad, if they are anything like the Dachshunds that we'owned or should I say owned us.