CoClimber
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Posts posted by CoClimber
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My Kitfox2-4 is built from parts. I started with a KF2 fuselage, modified it (larger tail, wider, switched to nose gear and made new main gear. Replaced the 582 with a 912, made my own KF4 ribs, bought KF4 flaperons, fabricated a KF4 mixer. My DAR was helpful but I definitely made it from various parts from different airplanes and fabricated much of it.
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Well done. We use little lasers like this at work for extremely precise measurements. I have little tape marks all over my walls in my office!
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I have to look at my KF2 manual to see what that wing requires but I believe the model 4 has 1.3 degrees of dihedral. Splitting hairs really. Another thing is that the rear spar will have more angle so that you will have washout so you should use the front spar for dihedral measurements.
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Very good book for sure. I've given copies to several friends and encouraged others to read it. Just ran across another Kitfox getting bent up. JImChuk
I suspect that the airplane was a Just SuperSTOL. http://www.kathrynsreport.com/2021/03/loss-of-control-in-flight-just-ja30.html
I wonder if leaving the flaps up and landing faster would have helped. Comments welcome.
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Congratulations. It is a beautiful plane.
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Your project sounds so similar to mine. I started with a model 2 but it has the model 4 wing, etc. I used the 3M glue for the fabric and latex house paint. I wore a mask when spraying but it's nice to not have that toxic odor. I also widened my fuselage to 43.5". I think you mentioned a DIY AI. I have two 3.5" 480x320 displays in mine one for the engine sensors and the one shown which receives data from a Pixhawk. I will be flying a club Cessna on Sunday and will evaluate this then. In the photo, the green line in the center is the horizon. The software will evolve once I know the Pixhawk is reliable. Another weird similarity is that I use a skid steer as a snowplow.
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Wayne, we are basically a friendly group and I hope I speak for the majority when I say that. Could you take a photo of the flaperon mixer behind the seat? That would settle the mixer concern. BTW, I have a Model 2 with Model 4 wings too.
Good luck with the sale.
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109jb, I'm curious about your $15 GPS. I have a GPS in my Stratux, a GPS in my DIY ESIS, and the one built into my tablet. Nothing feeding my ELT. That seem silly.
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Some of us have copied the Model 4 mixer but, in my case, I also have a Model 4 wing and flaperons. If I am correct, the Mk1-3 mixer actually gives you more down than up, making the adverse yaw even worst. I imagine it will teach you to use your feet!
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Spot on. I'm 63, got my PPL three weeks ago, and should have my Kitfox II flying in the spring. I'm hoping for 10+ years of flying but, at my age, I know how fast 10 years goes by.
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The other loads to consider is where the mass of the airplane is applied to these forces. The engine is fairly far forward and could have a substantial lever arm with the stock gear. Moving the attachment point forward will help with that.
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An I'm even closer. Probably should get my project finished before looking at another one!
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I haven't made the recess for the firewall yet. That is the next thing I need to do. I looked at the builders manual last night and it says that the pedals should be vertical (90 degrees) at neutral. There is about an inch between the rudder pedal and the header at full deflection but if I apply the brake the distance goes to almost zero. The brakes aren't connected so I don't know how far the brake would actually go. I guess I need to do that next.
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I'm doing the final bits to get my 912UL installed in my Kitfox 2. I had to modify the exhaust headers to get the muffler that came with the engine tucked in well. I'm doing the firewall now and the headers are about a 1/4" from the firewall wells for the rudder pedals. Does anyone know if there is a minimum distance allowed? I ordered some insulating exhaust tape for this section of the headers but I want to make sure I am legal.
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No need to go to the shop to find that out Allen. We constantly tinker with airplanes. What other proof is needed? On the serious side, it does seem kind of backwards to have a throttle positioned to be at full throttle. Wonder if anyone ever said, I'll just see if I can fire it up and let it idle even though everything isn't hooked up. Wonder how high a 912 can rev with no prop at full throttle, and for how long? But that's the way it's done on these carbs. I'm guessing the BMW motorcycles that use these same carbs are not rigged this way though. JImChuk
My understanding is that if in flight you lose throttle linkage, the throttle goes to full power which allows you to keep flying vs forcing you to land. Control the speed with mags.
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When I purchased my 912UL, the seller included a Luga propeller with the deal. I discovered that the blades are either for a pusher, or a Rotax 582. In other words, they are left hand blades. They are marked L-83 and the diameter looks to be ~68". I can get new blades from AirTrikes that will fit the hub so I would like to sell these blades. They appear to be brand new as far as I can tell. I would like $400 for them plus shipping. This does not include the hub.
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LOL! I hate to break it to you, but I put the little wheel up front with the thought that it wouldn't be seeing and cow manure where I will be flying. Maybe I should fly down and see you and you can point out good fields for me to get that even coloring.
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The airplane is a cream color and I have white duct tape so it looks like I'm set. I got a laugh about your off field airplane.
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I wasn't really thinking this one through when I did it. I covered my fuselage and when I went to install my controls, I saw that the four bolts that attach the elevator/aileron controls to the floor would be going through the plywood floorboards and I wouldn't be able to access the nuts for these bolts without cutting small access holes in the fabric at the bottom of the fuselage. I hope this makes sense. The point is that I have four .75" holes in the bottom of my fuselage. Had I planned ahead, I would have put access panels there but the fabric is painted and I'm lazy. Will those holes be a problem - in flight and during the airworthiness inspection? They are small enough that a duct tape patch would cover them completely. Or should I do the right thing and pull everything out and put the access rings in there for inspection plates?
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I made the cheap solution with a Raspberry Pi for ADSB in. Seems to work great on the ground but I never flew with it. The rental palne I currently fly has ADSB in/out. I have a Samsung tablet with Avare app. I'm just a student pilot but I was practicing the other day and decided to treat myself to a quick detour across the lake. Grabbed the tablet and set a plan to take me back to the airport. It was a joke how easy it was to use. I have a knee board that the tablet clips to.
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A thought crossed my mind. In a year or two, do you think you would look back and regret selling you project? Good luck in what you decide.
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Sweet. Can you refresh my memory? What airplane and can you post a photo of what you've done? I converted my Model 2 Kitfox to a Model 4 control system along with Model 4 ribs and flaperons. I based the geometry off of a drawing that Kitfox provided years ago. The plane has yet to fly so I hope my efforts are worth it.
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More flying with the new wing
in Avid fox flyers pics and vids
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Hard to see but it looks like your wing struts are streamlined. With no streamlining, you will use 22hp to push those tubes through the air. With a 3:1 streamline, it goes down to below 2hp.