109jb

Very Nice!!!!

Yeah. Fortunately I have a second set of carbs for my 912 and the Bing 64 floats and Bing 54 floats are the same according to the parts list.

So I've been trying to get the engine running right and stupid me it is going to be near impossible getting it to run correctly with this situation.

Not really a way to tell without knowing what you already have.

The stator has 12 poles and 8 are used for accessory charging and 4 are used only for ignition. The ignition side is totally separate from the accessory power, so worst case is the accessory side can't keep up with the load and you run your battery down but the engine won't stop.

You will need to do a load analysis to see. The accessory portion of the 582 stator puts out 170 watts. At 12v that is right at 14 amps. Whether that is enough depends on what you have installed. For example I had a Whelen wingtip strobe/nav light system and the strobe power supply all by itself consumes 7 amps at 12v, not counting the nav lights which were another 5 or 6 amps for a total of about 12 or 13 amps. So right there you are pretty much maxing out the stator. However, I replaced the old nav/strobe system with a LED strobe/nav setup and the entire new light system draws 2 amps maximum total. So, like I said, you have to add up the average draw from everything you have installed and come in below 14 amps.

Good luck. Please let us know how it goes.  Once you get the mounts welded on you will need to machine the step for the brake rotor and drill/tap the 3 bolt holes. I was going to do this on my milling machine using a rotary table but like I said I never got around to it. On the one with the slightly bent rim, it still held air and wasn't real noticeable. Will be curious how you make out because I'm thinking about doing a set so that I can swap from the 21" Nanco tires to smaller ones with wheel pants without having to peel the tire off.

If you are willing and able to make and weld on the three brake rotor mounts, the wheels are just douglas ATV wheels. Do a search for "DWT 8x6 3+3 3/100" The code on this is "DWT" = Douglas wheel technology, 8x6 = rim diameter x rim width, 3+3 = wheel backspacing + frontspacing, 3/100 = 3 bolts on 100mm bolt circle. 

I had thought about buying and making a new set for my previous kitfox as it had one rim slightly bent, but wound up selling that one. The above is what I believe Kitfox used for the rims but I make no guarantee of that..

Been thinking more about this and since the EGTs from mid-range through top end were all a bit higher than I would like, not much but a little, I think I will re-pitch a little coarser first. With the cool weather and flying solo right now I can do that without performance worries and see what level flight rpm comes out to. Is there a rule of thumb on how much to change pitch to affect EGT?

Thanks guys.  I've seen the linked document before. I absolutely know that it needs a smaller idle jet, just figuring what size at $60 per set gets pricey and wanted to see what others have found. I did wind up ordering 40s and 45s for the idle circuit. Will start with the 45s first. If I lean the DIY Hackman system at idle it smoothes out nicely but is just way too rich. IMO, there is rich but still runs smooth, and so rich that it stumbles. I want to get it from the way too rich stumbling spot to slightly rich but still smooth at idle.

As far as going to a lower altitude or it leaning from here, I'm at 560 ft field elevation right now, so I doubt I'll be much lower than that ever, and we are coming into the coldest months around here, so my jetting now will be richest case.

On the upper end of power settings EGTs are pretty close across the mid and upper rpm range, but a touch lower in mid-range, at least from what I could see on that short flight. From what I understand this is not the usual as the stock jetting and needle is leaner in mid range, but I have the 11K2 needle Dusty recommended. Perhaps this is why a little lower throttle brought EGT down just a touch. I think it needs to be just a touch richer across the board or maybe I need a touch more prop pitch. Will try raising the needle one notch first and if the top end is still too hot I may crank in a touch more pitch. Until I can get a full throttle level flight run I won't know conclusively about prop pitch. According to the jetting chart the 170s in there should be plenty for conditions we have right now. Should actually be good at my elevation to about -4 degF

Thanks for the help.

I think the high egt during climb, and really all phases can be taken care of with raising the needles. I can't remember exactly but I think they are currently in the 2nd notch from the top. Next time I'm out there I will change those.

On the idle jet, the guy who wound up with my other Kitfox spent a lot of time to get it running really nice. It ran well enough when I got it but he made it perfect. To tell the truth, I never even looked at the jets on that one as the owner prior to me did well enough in that regard. The guy who bought from me settled on using 40 idle jets in summer and 45 in winter. That airplane had no clutch and a 3 blade warp drive. Mine now also has no clutch, although I seriously think about putting one in my cart every time I'm on the LEAF website. It also has a 3 blade wood GSC prop.

Thanks for the help. Would like to talk to you sometime about the clutch and how you like it.

Weather finally cooperated in northern Illinois and I got this one back in the air. Was a short flight, only about 40 minutes, but it flew beautifully. I only have a few squawks to work out:

1. Gotta plug the big air leak from around the landing gear bungees

2. Rudder and brake pedals need anti-skid tape on them.

3.  Brake pedal angle needs adjusting

4. Engine too rich at idle. Need smaller idle jets

5. EGT during climb was a bit high, so need to check float levels and may need next size larger main jets or raise needle one clip position. 

On #4 and #5 I'd like to get opinions of the 582 experts here.  Here is my carb setup right now:

170 main jets, 55 idle jets, 11K2 needles with the clip second from top.

First thing I will do is check the float bowl fuel level as one cylinder seemed a tad hotter than the other. On the idle, at about 2200 rpm the engine bucks pretty good but if I open the valve on my home-brew hackman it smooths right out.  So I know it need smaller idle jets, but do I go to 50 or 45 or one guy I talked to said he runs 40 idle jets in his. Any opinions on those?  On the mains, if the float levels are good I think I will try just raising the needle one notch and see how that does.

BTW, to keep EGT in check I throttled back a bit on climb out but it was getting 6250 during the climb. Didn't want to push it up in level flight because of the EGT so I'm not sure what it would have done there. Does the 6250 climb number seem about right? it was about a 70 mph climb.

Thanks everyone. This is a great group.

Denatured alcohol on the aluminum is fine too.

Depends on what kind of tank. If it is a polyethylene (plastic) tank, then use denatured alcohol. Will dissolve the goo easily. Don't use on fiberglass, at least not without testing  first to see if there are detrimental effects.

Got a line on a pair from a TeamKitfox member already.

I've been thinking that on my yellow Kitfox I may want to go with wheel pants  but I don't have a set. With the big tire craze I figure there are probably many sets taking up space in workshops and hangars across the country. If you are looking to clear a little space then let me know what you have.

Thanks,

John Brannen

I have a question on needles. My shipment arrived from LEAF today and when I pulled out the existing needles, the engine had 15K2 needles installed. So looking at the chart, these are the stock needles if using an intake silencer, which this engine is not equipped with. The Stock needles according to the chart when not using an intake silencer are 11G2. The new needles i got today are 11K2. I also got 170 main jets. So to summarize I now have 170 main jets and 11K2 needles.  

Here is where I need help with initial setting. In Dusty's post, he said to use the 11K2 from the 503 dual carb engine. In the carb jetting chart it shows putting the clip in the second grove from the top for the 503 and the stock position on the 582 is in the third groove. For those running these needles, which clip position are you using? Winter? Summer? Main jet make a difference?

Thanks,

John Brannen

I got the wings back on and I'm just waiting for carb jets and needles before it goes to the airport for flight.

Been a bit but thank you for this post. I ordered the 11k2 needles and will install before flying. 

yes, but I find the stock jetting is already a little rich in most every case. 

Nope. The Highlander has a step in the fuel tank to leap frog the drag tube. It drops in over top of it. You can see it in this video

Thanks but having been examining  the system I had thoughts. If putting the reference port in the air cleaner it makes sense that the jet size will need to go up,  but if the port is not in the air cleaner then the bowl pressure would just be the same as stock if the valve is closed. It would seem in this case you could keep stock jets. I like the idea of taking the pressure under cowl instead of in the air cleaner because a tube failure or with the valve closed puts it in a stock condition. I believe the commercial hacman uses this as the firewall mounted manifold is shown in the online instructions with a little air filter and no connection to the air cleaner. Thoughts?

Got the mighty 582 running today.  Here is a short video of the engine running. It started right up and ran very well. No adjustments seem to be needed. I 

I put in a lithium-ion battery and I have to say that little thing really cranks this engine. I had a 14 AH large motorcycle battery in it but wasn't happy with how well it cranked so bit the bullet and bought a lithium -ion which is smmaller, lighter and cranks the engine better. I also have a  small lithium jump start pack and I think I will put some lugs in the cockpit so I can jump it right from the cockpit if necessary.  

On this airplane I think I am going to put on the Hacman mixture control. For those of you that run one, do I need to up my jet size and then use the Hacman to  lean from there, or just use stock jet and lean it from there?

Sounds good to me. I'll send you a pm.

Yeah I think that would work, but probably not worth the trouble

Well the Loctite 574 finally arrived and I got the engine put back together to the point where I could perform the pressure test again. All good now. Pressurized to 6 psi and 10 minutes later it was about 5.5 psi. Here is a picture of the setup. One carb socket plug has a pressure gauge in it and the other has a tire schrader valve in it. Plug up the pulse line and hook a hand pump to it and pump up to 6 psi and remove the air pump. Will give the condition of the seals. It shouldn't leak more than about 0.5 psi per minute.

You could also use fabric rivets. Basically large head aluminum pop rivets. Just drill the holes in the rib flanges slightly off-center. That is what I plan to do on my kitfox.