akflyer
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Posts posted by akflyer
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2X4 and a soft blow hammer and you can straighten that tube right up.
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Are they kinked? If they are not kinked, the best way I have found to straighten them is a block of wood with the tube radius routered in it and a hammer. YouTube had some old school FAA videos showing this. I straightened up some pretty nasty bends quickly and easily.
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The covering will hold it all together. I think its best that you seal up the strut before you put the wood fairing on. Mine were not sealed up and the tubes rusted out really bad where the wood was holding moisture against them.
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The wrong area of the house for me to make any offers. Now if you were in the garage I might make an offer on the coyote.
I sold the Avid, not gonna sell the coyote or the amphib. Household good are all for sale, no more airplanes for sale hahahaha
At least she isn't going far and you can come visit/fly her anytime you want while I'm at work!
I am happy that it went to you, I think you will have a ton of fun with her like I have.
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Looking good! Now is the time that things start coming together pretty quickly!
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And if I'm not mistaken you can legally take lessons in your own plane with dual set up.Yes of course you can. You can do it without having dual brakes as well but it is not the smartest thing to do.
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My guess is that TP is much better than pinecones. I don't get the mass hysteria though.
Reminds me of the old joke about the fuller brush salesman (ya, that probably dates me) An old couple didn't want to buy any of his new fangled brushes, and so he said he would let them try some, and if they didn't like them, they didn't have to pay him for them next time he stopped by. Few weeks later, he stopped back, and asked how the brushes were. They said the tooth brush and hair brush were fine, and they would pay for them. But they said they were going to stick with toilet paper, cause that toilet brush was just to rough., JImChuk
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My guess is that TP is much better than pinecones. I don't get the mass hysteria though.
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Why dual brakes?Why dual brakes?
Learning to fly a TD with the instructor not having brakes is a great way to wad one up. I have seen it happen on more than one plane around here.
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Scratch that, Mine don't have the insert.
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yes the IVO uses SS tapes. I replace mine once a year for 15 bucks. Good float flying practices and you wont be picking up water in the prop and destroying it. Worst case you have a few sets of tape on hand and change them when needed, it only takes a few minutes.
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For those that can afford a $3-400 tool they work great. Sometimes for one aircraft or maybe two, it doesn't justify the cost to buy one. I have a toolbox with high dollar tools in it for A&P work but also have a bunch of homemade tools also. Sometimes its just easier to make what you need than order it. A good homebuilder can be a crafty little devil if he needs to be. But then for me, after a few years, "what the h&^# did I make this for?"
I do that a lot. Now I have to label the tools I make so I remember what half of them are for the next time I need to use it in a few years.
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When I do my new kitfox I'll probably do flared AN connections, but haven't ruled out using short (about 2 inch) pieces of tube as connectors. Do what makes you comfortable but be sure to inspect well as I've seen the aftermath of poor maintenance.
What is the best way to connect an aluminum line to a tube?
I slip the hose over the tube and use safety wire to clamp it. Never had a leak yet. I use a double wrap of safety wire for almost all of my small diameter hose connections.
I was going to do that and wanted to put a bead on the end of the aluminum line to keep the hose from slipping off. I couldn't find a beading tool small enough for 1/4 inch line for less than several hundred dollars.
I went through the same thing. I had to heat up the end of the tygon hose to get it to slip over the aluminum tube. After it has been on for a year you have to cut the tubing off or you will twist and destroy the aluminum tube trying to get it off. I have yet to have a leak on one of those connections. These are installed in pretty much a ZERO stress condition and they never see stress. Vegas would not give you odds on the hose slipping off the tube if you use a safety wire clamp.
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The wrong area of the house for me to make any offers. Now if you were in the garage I might make an offer on the coyote.I sold the Avid, not gonna sell the coyote or the amphib. Household good are all for sale, no more airplanes for sale hahahaha
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Great, now I have to get that image out of my mind.
No worries, I don't wear it, the housekeepers I hire do. Trust me, its not a bad image to have
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Well folks, its time to reevaluate my priorities. With trying to keep up with the house and the young kid I am just going backwards and failing in my housekeeping duties and just don't have enough time to fly. Therefore, I will be parting out all of my stuff. Please feel free to make offers.
Vacuum cleaner
Various Mops
Various brooms
Bathroom cleaning supplies
Dusting supplies
Sponges of various sizes and shapes.
Steam cleaner
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When I do my new kitfox I'll probably do flared AN connections, but haven't ruled out using short (about 2 inch) pieces of tube as connectors. Do what makes you comfortable but be sure to inspect well as I've seen the aftermath of poor maintenance.
What is the best way to connect an aluminum line to a tube?
I slip the hose over the tube and use safety wire to clamp it. Never had a leak yet. I use a double wrap of safety wire for almost all of my small diameter hose connections.
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The older systems I've seen did have some hose mainly in very short sections used as connectors. Some used more, but more modern airplanes tend to be all aluminum tube from tank to firewall. I personally prefer aluminum if possible but have to admit my Sonerai is all hose; however, the total length of hose inside the cockpit is about 1 foot and it is replaced every 5 years or less. My current flying Kitfox has a lot of hose in the cockpit too. I planned to change the hose in the cockpit out for aluminum this year but now that probably won't happen because I'll be selling it later this year to fund my new project Kitfox. When I do my new kitfox I'll probably do flared AN connections, but haven't ruled out using short (about 2 inch) pieces of tube as connectors. Do what makes you comfortable but be sure to inspect well as I've seen the aftermath of poor maintenance.
I think you hit on the key right there. Maintenance. I replaced hoses every year on the Avid. I probably do more maintenance than most and am constantly fixing little things. It drives me nuts the people that only fill the gas and check the oil between annuals. If I see it I fix it right then and there. I do agree 100% that aluminum lines and good fittings are the way to go for longevity.
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My pacer, cubs and 180 had hoses in the fuel system....
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makes me want to get mine in the air!
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The bend in it right at the front of the saddle looks like she has taken a beating. How many hours are on that spring? Sometimes when you beef up a sacrificial part, it makes you break other parts that are much more expensive and time consuming to replace.
Chicken Stuff
in Kitfox II
Posted
Every time they ask me if I want a receipt I say nope, ignorance is bliss. When I fist started my Avid rebuild I made a spreadsheet to track costs and hours. I quickly decided that was not something I wanted a record of and deleted it.