wolves200

This are some of the OLD installation photos I had on hand, the electrics were VERY wrong, and the radiator as well was very badly installed... instead of bolting the radiator on a frame to the engine, I decided it to let it "float" on a small compartment on the front of the cowl, works quite well, but in HOT summer is not that effective, I will go for a belly radiator; far easier.
 
I will post more pics later.
 
Regards
Dimi3
 
 
 
 

Well it seems that Leni is right about how much freedom you guys are enjoying over the states, don´t want to open a can of worm here about political views, but this kind of government attitude really piss me off; and this builder is by no means A JOKE, his works seems very legit... 
 
I`m afraid I will have same luck with the Swedish Authorities if I do the same over here, so guys enjoy while you can!!!
 

 

 

 

 
 
Regards
Dimi3

Mine is also very quiet outside, people asked me if the plane is electrical, however I would love to have a quieter cockpit, when I speak on the radio some of my friends complain about background engine noise, I`m using 3 different materials for the isolation they are light not that heavy. I will post more pics once they are fitted.
 
Regards
Dimi3

Hey Bryce....long story short, I free fall from a latter 2,5m fixing my new house and landed on my left ankle, like a say nothing that a 8 weeks of inactivity and a good surgery with a couple of screws can´t fix, how ever it will take 4 weeks more to be fully up and running, can´t wait to fly again!!
 
in the mean time I´m also busy fitting another of same engine on the plane, adding instrument on the panel, such as MGL E-1 engine monitor, Fuel Flow computer also MGL, the new radio, and a complete fuel system; reconditioning the seat and behind the seat, also a baggage compartment, sound/temp isolation, ETC...
 
I really want to go for a long camping trip this summer with my buddy and produce tons of videos along the way.
 
regards
Dimi3
how about yourself, bryce, haven´t seen any videos from your little robin bird!

I have a Rotax 532 inverted and on the pilot side (left side) the exhaust burn the surface of the cowling and heat inside of the cowling was intense, after an hour flight I couldn´t touch my cowling with bare hands, however somebody suggested to wrap the exhaust between the first elbow until the second down elbow before the big muffler. This solved 2 problems, one burning cowling, two engine performance; you could see in some of my pictures my side vents are large, well even those couldn´t keep temps down inside of the cowl. 
 
But then again it´s not a 4 stroke engine...
 
Regards
Dimi3

I guess; is a everyday bread and butter to crash in that harsh environment, but you know what the say, any landing you can walk away is a good landing, I guess he is a living proof of that concept...
 
besides what´s the point of having a STOL if you are only doing asphalt??
 
regards
Dimi3

Hey guys!!
 
The tank is almost fitted, and the fuel line is routed with the transponder antenna cable with extra protections at some places.
 
I´m taking the time to do some sound/temp isolation to have less noise inside of the cockpit, I have a sound tester and it´s like 120 db in flight at cruise, I use ear plugs + headsets, I`m trying to minimize cockpit noise. Any of you guys have problems with noisy cockpit?
 
I will be adding also little compartment right behind the seat and I as said before aileron control rods will have to be disconnect it each time fold the wings. oh almost forgot I bought a flightline FL-760 from a guy who is not flying anymore, almost new for 550$ i´m very happy with size/weight and price, heard nothing but good things about this little Japanese radio, let´s see in the air how it behaves, with intercom built in.
 
Regards
Dimi3

Well;
 
after a broken ankle, 2 screws and 8 weeks of doing absolutely nothing---Doctor said it was worried about blood clogh and amputation...I´m almost out of danger and ready to work on the workshop slowly... Can´t wait to fly this thing!!!
 
Now is time to get my @$$ in gear, Sew the sling seat, after tons of hours looking and asking questions in internet I decided that removing the cushion as per Bryce advise, would be the best and easiest MOD.
 
Turn out my SE-YTA patch will be useless since I will change to another registration number, any ambiguity with the meaning of that word is mere coincidence...cough---cough..ejem @£$$bull£@shit...
 
Regards
Dimi3

Don´t know what´s a dexter primer is, but I have one of these and it fail after 2 years of operation, and I bought another one.... to cheap to spend time fixing it!
 
 
http://www.ebay.com/itm/YAMAHA-SKIDOO-ARCTIC-CAT-POLARIS-SNOWMOBILE-MIKUNI-KEIHIN-FUEL-PRIMER-PUMP-BODY-/141270839792?pt=Personal_Watercraft_Parts&hash=item20e465f1f0&vxp=mtr
 
 
Regards
Dimi3

I wasn´t aimming for legalities issues, but more like an EYE BALL DESIGN, back yard inventor, this is a sweet little plane.
 
take a look at it, 
straight square fuselage bottom side is flat, meaning can be use as a waterline and reference and easy to build in the bench. Cowling is as square as it can be, yet it looks good with the large spinner on it,  wings, SIMPLE, one piece, attached to the rest with an "A" frame. Engine, Honda orinally 14hp upograded it to 30+HP workmanship is not "THAT" questionable However he needs help like the rest of us, Just a little bit of help and he will be on track, he was banned from a local airport... that´s why he is looking for a take off place...
is a ultralight in definition, and therefore the rules are different, if he would have choose a different design, I don´t think he could get away with many things...
 
either way an A + for his effort, workmanship and enthusiasm!!
 
Regards
Dimitri

Hey Kenneth; im glad that you and your wife walked away from it....any material damage can be solved...

by the way, if you have a mechanical tacho and for any reason I cannot understand, don´t want to change to Tinytach or any other electronic RPM,
 
you can counter check your RPM with this tool here, only few bucks, ........should not be read under fluorescent light.......
 
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__10783__Turnigy_Multi_Blade_Micro_Tachometer.html

hmm.... Leny is right! but this question have many places to look....
 
if timing and compression is done, I should look in.
 
1.- Propeller pitch (this one is a tricky, if you don´t get it right your EGT and carb will never be right)
2.- Carburetor Jettings.
3.- Gearbox Oil, you can also take the plugs out and turn it by hand, and feel it.
4.- Spark plugs.
 
WOT; 5000 and up is controlled by the main JET.....
 
EAA hints for homebuilders has a good video on this....
 
http://www.eaavideo.org/video.aspx?v=2073201298001
 
browse for all the videos Brian Carpenter from Rainbow aviation there, explains precisely what you need to look.

Well,
 
I can tell you one thing, lucky you "POOR" guys that the material are manufacture in USA, because of that,  I have to use such amount of money in Dangerous Goods and shipping cost, and that makes hell of a difference for me, your calculations Ed; are of course for USA, as of here in Europe..another story, plus, if you don´t have weather in your side, you will have to make a warm paint booth.
 
I just don´t see myself using any of the Old systems, next year I will recover the fuselage; and this is where I`m going for.
 
I´m very sure that in the future this prices are going lower, like any new stuff is always expensive in the beginning... once that happens, rest is going bye bye
 
 
Regards
Dimi3

Avid Flyer being covered with Oratex 
 

the doctors says; if you have a FAT AVID take a Soobie!
 
I believe  Randy can give you better opinion... but as I heard every where, they are heavy, reliable, and cheap to run, both in fuel and spare parts.... 
 
Regards
Dimi3

Is sun Shining here in South Sweden, and so is time to get my plane out and rig the flaperons, I installed the F7A mod, level the plane and all, and now after everything is done, I noticed that the amount of deflection with full flaps and stick centered (+15) but when I apply left or right stick, the lifting wing is all the way down, (top of the mechanism)... while the other flaperon barely moves, I can´t remember the old system.
 
 I set the system so, stick centered they are 0 degrees no flaps, and +15 degrees full flaps; I don´t have chapter 7 and 8 of the manual, I just look at the old manual posted here.
 
IS THIS OK?
 
Regards
Dimi3

Guys; I apologize if I´m stealing some one else´s work and stepping in some else´s toes, but I think John  is member of this forum and wouldn´t mind me polsting here some of his findings.
He Quote
...........................
Avideers:

Over the 3980 hours I have flown my Avid I have tried adding three different brands of VGs on my STOL wing only to find that there was no significant improvement in stall speed with flaperons on.

Lately I have been experimenting with the 3rd brand of VGs, namely STOLSPEED VGs. I like their design and ease of attachment and the response of the manufacturer. They are plastic and shaped like the fletching on an arrow.

It took about two hours by myself to attach them and I only placed them on the wings, not the under surface of the horiz stab.

As before there was no reduction of stall speed with full (10 degrees on my bird) flaperon. However, by leaving them on for a while instead of removing them I discovered other performance improvements that I hadn't even considered or checked before.

When you have flown an aircraft of close to 4,000 hours you are intimately familiar with its characteristics. I began to notice these improvements over a two week period.

The first improvement was noticed when I was doing stall tests. NOTE: When I refer to stall I'm not referring to wing stall, but horizontal stab stall.

I noticed that even though my flaperon on "stall" was still about 38 MPH IND, the flaperon off stall had been reduced from 46 MPH IND to 41 MPH IND. This is at 3000 MSL solo with 10 gallons of fuel at idle RPM.

Slow speed aileron control with no flaperons was my crisper. At cruise RPM 2700 RPM I could slow it to 40 MPH and make 30 degree banking turns while climbing with a better aileron authority.

Secondly, I noticed a better climb rate. Again, this is with no flaperons. As a minimum I am seeing 100 FPM better and typically average 200 FPM better over several tests. 

To confirm this improvement I matched my climb against my friend's Kitfox 5 powered by a 100 HP Rotax. 

In the past I could out climb him when we were both lightly loaded, but when we both had full fuel and camping gear he would out climb me.

On a recent camping trip when we were both loaded I can now out climb him.

Finally, I believe I am noticing a better glide rate. This is harder to quantify and I use the glide ratio on my Garmin pilot 3 to measure this. 

Over two week of comparing the GR as compared to before the VGs and at 65-70 MPH IND, I see a definate increase in GR compared to what I am used to seeing.

The under cambered wing with flaperons is a great design allowing us to get in and out of short, unimproved fields with ease, but I feel the VGs have , in my case, made the Avid an even better short field flier.

Why do I not put VGs on the horiz stab? I typically touch down at 40 MPH and do not have the tail first, then main plop that I used to have, since I lowered the tail wheel and went to larger 21 inch tires on the mains. 

I'm sure VGs on the tail surface would get me a higher AOL and land a bit slower, but then I would have the tail/mains plop syndrom back again. I consider the horizontal stall before the wing stall a safety feature.

New test in progress: I have placed 6 VGs at 60 MM spacing on the bottom of the wing tips at mid chord running from the tip inboard. 

This is a test to see if I can reduce the wing tip vortex formed by the spillover of air from the bottom surface to the lower pressure top surface. 

I'll publish the results when they are finalized.

John M
Avid B STOL 3980 hours
Jabiru 2200 680 hours
Tennessee 2 blade wood prop 64 x 36
 
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
 
I just read this old post on the VGs on my Avid STOL and the last part says I placed the VGs under the wing tip and I would publish the results. I forgot to do that so here are the results.
 
I had place the under tip VGs only on the left wing and before doing the right wing.  I took a friend up to show him the straight forward stall characteristics of the Avid.
 
However, when I did the stall the Avid fell off on the right wing. I tried it two more times with he same results. This had never happened before.
 
So I landed and put the VGs on the right wing and BINGO...the Avid stalled straight ahead as it used to.
 
My theory...and everyone has one...the VGs under the tip help to keep the wind stream flowing back to the trailing edge instead of allowing it to flow over the tips from the high to low pressure areas and causing the infamous wing tip vortices.  
 
Whatever they are doing...the are staying put.
 
John M 
 
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
 
Three inches from leading edge of spar to leading edge pf vg.
Your results may vary.

John M

Anybody can compare this 2 mounts? or provide more information about the Dynasmooth?
 
I need to replace my engine mount due to vibrations and cracks, is too old I don´t want to keep on patching a bunch of old maybe rusted pipes!
 
Regards
Dimi3

 
I saw it first time on the Cub Driver Alaska no second chances DVD, very interesting DVD about off road landings, Bush Flying. it´s very ugly; however; it has all the bells and whistles for short landing performance, double fowler flap, slat, VG, high visibility, bush gear, etc. etc.
 
it seems like this guys made a big list of things that need to be on the bush/STOL plane and put it together regardless the look.
 
I think the cosmetic look can be greatly improve by making something similar to the Australian Seabird Seeker
 
IMHO such complex wing should be done entirely on aluminium or composites rather than covered with fabric.
 
Regards
Dimi3
 
 
 

WOW! nice pictures!!!

how about your EGT?  I read in some manual or articles, that whenever you have stubborn EGT, the problem is generally NOT the carburetor; and we should look somewhere else.
 
some places to look.
 
1.- cracks on the caburetor boots.
2.- leaks on the choke conectors (even if they are not installed)
3.- Timming, ignition, use a lamp to quick check this.
4.- gearbox, change oil, you will notice a slight change in RPM with new oil, about 200 RPM.
5.- always, use the recommended factory jettings; check that all the numbers are as per manual.
6.- EGT probes; you can check them by flaming with a regular torch, they normally bring them to about 650 degrees celcius.
 
hope it helps
regards
dimi3