FredStork

...but remember, Oratex is only for those who are not into sniffing dope and thinner and only want to spend one weekend from ready to cover to ready to fly...

I have tried all versions by now: pure toe brakes, mono hand brake on the stick, double hand brakes on the stick, toe brakes coupled with mono hand brake (this was the theoretically most pleasing solution) and finally mono hand brake on the stick and a switch for braking on only one side. 

I agree that ground loops should be due to bad rudder action and that differential brakes are there to save the situation. But I find the reality being the opposite. It is very hard to be brake in a “creative “ fashion with the toe brakes while still working the rudder. Some can do it, but most will fail when they are half way into a ground loop. And while it can happen to anyone it is less frequent for the experts...

This is why I, not an expert, prefer having easy access to powerful, while still easy to dose, equal braking. My solution is a main (motorcycle) brake handle on the stick. Moderate brake an rudder still allows for fairly precise maneuvers and I can brake hard when needed without the risk of being to hard (ground loop...) on one side. And, for tight situations I have a switch that direct all the brake power (fluid) to only one side making it easy to turn around one wheel (a flashing light tells me the switch is engaged to avoid leaving it there for landing...)

That hard Maule tailewheel is a killer for the tailspring, it provided no damping what so ever and it is heavy.

While keeping the mechanism intact (I belong to the minority actually finding it good...) I replaced just the solid wheel with a pneumatic wheel 2 years ago. I get much less vibration fron the tail and it is more comfortable...

I wrote an article about it on my blog http://avidsimonini.blogspot.com/2017/03/finally-pneumatic-tail-wheel.html

Nice film, what an amazing playground!

I have tested for you - and it works!
(only for those who still believe in 2 strokes...)
It was time to replace the old engine bushings.

Last time someone in the French Avid Flyer club had placed a grouped order at some rubber supplier...
After hours on the web I found this at Hutchinson Paulstra that appeared to be at least the the right size

After talking to the manufacturer  https://www.paulstra-industry.com/mount-22000-p78-en.html

 I ordered the the softest version (the mid section is enclosed in the engine mount and therefore constrains the movements they don't indicate a shores grade as this could be misleading). The model I ordered was the 530903-21.

This is what they look like in real life. A little more sophisticated than our stamped out of a sheet version but with a similar (better?) end result.

They fit perfectly. The metal tube is larger than the original but the original tube fit perfectly inside it. I just made 2 washer for the rear attachments so the bushings will be equally compressed (or at least almost).

And here is the good news... they work great. I have done multiple flights and now have much less vibrations. 
I feel comfortable recommending those...

Maybe you can form a fan club together with my 11 year son !

Oldest brother fly the plane - but it sure speeds up the pre flight visit!

Thanks Randy! My "here the left hand falls" position of the throttle is, together with the windows, my best mods. Never had the problem being squeezed, you know we are pretty small over here... 

Long time no film.. I'm just back from the annual French Taildragger Brotherhood fly-in

All aeroplanes are equal but some aeroplanes are more equal than others...

Definitely for the chemtrail container, you don't want that stuff inside the cabin! 

I sure can...

Paulstra 530903-21 / Barry Control 22002-11

and as mentioned I will test when they arrive and post the outcome. They appear to be the right size, to be confirmed. And we will see about the hardness...

Thank you all for your feedback on this.

Comparing with bushings for other planes I have concluded that a shores hardness around 40 for the "rubber" used might be appropriate. I have found an industrial model that appears to match in terms of size and after talking to the manufacturer I have placed an order. I will test and keep you updated. 

Thank you all.

With the exception of eventually Leading Edge Air Foils, I have not found anyone proposing an off the shelf solution. And yes, I have the indications about "5/8" thick neoprene" in the manual... but there is more than one sort of neoprene and there is no indication of hardness (shores).

Comparing with other bushings sold for this size 2 stroke I think the neoprene should be 40° shores. Anyone has a different opinion?

My old bushings were definitely too soft (and have not aged very well)

Being the pilot helps, just like when driving. But if you are really sensitive it might take some time to get over it... 

I need to urgently replace my "582" type engine mount bushings. Looking for a reference and a supplier, preferably in europe... or dimensions and rubber characteristics (shores...) for make to order.

Sorry Pascal - have skis, not selling, too much fun  

Is there no modified bell cranks for the KitFox like the F7A bell cranks for the Avid?  

just thinking out loud here... not sure how that one works but guessing ultra sound... and if so maybe that, like anything operating on hight frequencies, could generate radio interference... I have a 6 liter header tank with a level alarm that goes off if the level starts to go down (i.e. just On/Off, not actaully measuring the level) It is just a magnet floating around a stick with a magnet triggered switch in it. 

Just pay in cash, the wife will never know...

Here is a pic of the long wheel axis that I can’t see in the photo. Make sure to get them...

I can confirm that "the skis on the plane is just a sample pic" - as it is my plane and I not selling my skis! NEVER!!! 

Whoever not buing the skis will one day regret it! So when you do (buy them that is), make sure they include the long wheel axis that goes with the skis. Can send photos if needed if the son selling his fathers stuff is not up to speed on what is a part of the kit.

"just a part of the polyfiber game" says he who used Oratex and, once covered, was s done... 

I have some stuff for sale (but only in Europe due to shipping...):

• 6" inch rims with drum brakes for 25 mm axes.  Like new, used for 3 flight, brakes never used.167 euros each new, selling both for 235 euros plus shipping
• Matco MC-A4 (i.e. short model) master cylinders (Aeroshell/DOT5).  Excellent condition, mounted, tested for a few flights, changed to master cylinder on the stick.155 euros each new, selling both for 215 euros plus shipping
• Rotax 2t silencer. Good condition, 127 euros new selling for 50 euros plus shipping

Call me, mail me, love me,

Fred (in France)
+3361356200
fred.stork@orange.fr

A friend has bought an Avid “project”... the original speedwings have been extended - but the flaperons are still the short speedwing model.

Is it safe to fly with the short flaperons?  Would it be a problem, a big difference?

My wife is also approving - probably just to prevent me from buying it...

I have already seen this (on a speedwing). Half of the left wing tank was used a storage compartment for fueling tube, fuel tester, a rag to wipe off after fueling etc. -  i.e. stuff that don't smell that good and you don't want in the cabin... I think I'd rather have the extra fuel capacity.