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Another surprise - Referring to the Axle Grease threads: I got my Grove nosewheel yesterday - the bearings had RED GREASE in them! Ha!
EdMO
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Just normal landing and taxiing operations will be impact enough to deform a PVC bushing, IMO.
OilLite would be your best option for durability and smooth operation.
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I understand exactly what you are saying - I meant bronze - actually would prefer OilLite - Sure hope for no IMPACTS!
Thanks for the info.
EdMO
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A brass bushing will gall against steel and have a very high coefficient of friction. You are probably thinking of a bronze bushing (tin-copper as opposed to zinc-copper alloy).
The Bronze will be more impact tolerant than the PVC (softer material) and will last longer at a resistance tightness.
(yes I am an engineer and yes I used to work for a bearing company.
)1 person likes this -
Bearings for nosewheel pivot shaft: Which would have the greater friction - 2 inches of brass bushing, or 4 inches of PVC? Weight and Wear and Cost are not a consideration, since the nosewheel pivot gets less use than the PVC bearings for flaperon hangers.
Thanks,
EDMO
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Avid had a groundloop and drug the right tip. Looking for anything you've got, but of course the unassembled parts would be nice. Mark IV Aerobat wing profile (same as speedwing).
Thanks!
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Could you PM me a price on the right wing if you still have it? I need a rib and endcap for a MK 4 Aerobat repair.
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I just picked up a new heavy hauler wing kit that a guy had but never put together ,I am thinking about extending the wing when I build it for the fat avid,Is there any plans for this or has anybody did it and is there anything else I should think about when I start this project. I would think about changing over to the kitfox ribs but sounds like alot of work
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The current plan is to use a Continental C-85. Possibly without starter to save weight
Did anyone read the thread on www.rotaryforum.com? It seems like this engine could have some real potential. If you read the power to weight ratio on this engine, you might even re-think your Subaru Ed
I'm always skeptical of any conversion engine that can approach the power to weight of a 912 since the 912 used pretty sophisticated engineering, and was purpose built from the ground up. The hours that have already been accumulated on this Yamaha in aircraft are pretty promising though. -
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Luke,
Maybe I missed the info on your engine:
Still trying to figure out if you are going with Stratus, Honda, Corvair, Mazda, VW, Cont / Lyc, Rotec or Rotax -
That's the only "bolt-in" engines I can think of, although there must be a few more.
EdMO
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Thanks for the good info Doug, I knew I had some red grease at one time, but was beginning to doubt its reality!
I knew you were just sitting on it and making us wait for the good stuff.
EDMO
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Well, on a more serious note, any lithium complex with a NLGI (National Lubrication Grease Institute) rating of EP / GC (extreme pressure / applicable for high temp wheel bearing applications with disc brakes) and #2 consistency (consistency of grease ranges from semi-fluid #0000 to solid #6) will likely do just fine. Always clean bearings of old grease when unsure of compatibility with new grease.
FWIW, the grease I use in my tractor mower spindle bearings (and all other lube points), along with my plane and trailer axle bearings is red MYSTIK #2 JT-6 Hi Temp. It meets the highest performance standard of ASTM D-4950 Automotive Grease Classification System and is NLGI certified GC-LB for dual-service (GC for wheel bearing service and LB for chassis service). It also had the highest published dropout point of any wheel bearing lube (550*F) and lowest water washout and bearing leakage ratings when I compared MSDS sheets a few years ago. It is non-soluable in water, contains anti-rust, anti-wear, extreme pressure, and antioxidant additives to hold up well under high heat and wet, corrosive conditions. Available in both tubes and tubs at my local Tractor Supply, Home Depot and WalMart stores.
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Hey Ed, I think you misunderstood... I'm going to go with an engine that you just bolt on and go
I'm already adding too much complication to this project 
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http://www.avidfoxflyers.com/index.php?/topic/640-different-wings/
Here is a link to the wings thread.. LOTS of good info provided by our resident historian / professor Dr. Holly.....
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Can you point me to the technical data on the wing spars?
What info are you looking for specifically? Search for the "Different Wings" thread in the Avid Mk-4 forum, details the construction and material characteristics of each Avid wing design.
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I have been paying $100 a kit for 9460 from Kitfox.
The spars are 2.5" x .065 wall 6061T6 for Kitfox and early Avids, and .083 wall for Airdale, Magnum, etc.
EDMO
Different wings
in Avid Model IV
dholly
Posted · Edited by dholly
Score! Now you go from 1050 to 1150 or 1200 lb. MTOW, big plus with your FWF. You won't find any aluminum extruded stiffeners for the .083" spars but check the A+ forum for pics and rational of the quick and easy wood stiffener mod I did. I think it would be easy to add a 12"-24" wing extension using simple internal tube sleeve joints on the spars when you are starting from scratch. Two or three additional ribs and a drag tube per side, essentially. I would use a set of non-droop KF 3 tips (slight modification required) and make them removable to use with or without the wing extension in place. It certainly is easy enough to use the Riblett KF4 ribs instead of the Avid HH ribs, but then you'd need the KF flaperons. I don't see why the KF wings/flaperons wouldn't work with our teleflex cable flaperon controls, although it might require repositioning the flaperon control horns or perhaps different length cables. To be honest, I think that airfoil is so superior that it might be worth the trouble.