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It's been a few years and I can't remember. Had to repair the left wing after a ground loop. I was getting material from a few places so I don't know exactly. Give them a call. Might not be that bad.

IFMT,

     How much were the 083 stiffeners from Just?  If their spars are priced like their tanks, I cant afford them!

EDMO

Maybe I missed this when I was skimming through this thread but I bought the aluminum stiffener insert for .083 tubing from Just aircraft. Pretty sure that Just uses .083 spars in their highlander. 

Doug,

     I believe he has good HH wing ribs - The only difference I have seen in the top profile is that my early Kitfox rib had just a tiny bit higher curve on the top - should give more lift?  I think his easiest, but maybe not perfect way to go, would be modifying what he has and he doesn't have to buy flaperons if he sticks with the Avid modified ribs.

EdMO

Another vote for the KeyWest regulator, no question.

Doug , would it be possible to add a flat bottom on the undercamber HH riblettes I have to build them like a speed wing riblette, It would add a little weight but dont think it would be to difficult but not sure if that would cause other issues, I know I would have to also deal the fuel tanks.

Willis - sure, you can change the lower profile of the Avid HH rib but it won't turn it into a Riblett airfoil. Even if you make the lower airfoil profile similar, the top airfoil profile, flaperon rib hinges and spar hole cut outs in the rib webbing are all different. Easier to buy a set of KF4 ribs or make your own than trying to modify the Avid HH ribs you have.

I believe the Key West (the blue regulator?) is a series as opposed to shunt regulator. I think it has better voltage regulation and cleaner less electrically noisy output than the Rotax shunt regulators. I am also pretty sure they do not require a load to regulate properly.

This is what I have heard and retained over the years as "fact". Not my own first hand knowledge. If someone knows different I would like to know.

Chris

Well, I found the battery and am mollified it's in the tailcone to mitigate some of the Soob's weight.

The more I pore ever the plane the more I like it and the fact that I can change/modify things more easily than the Cessna.

 I lurked some to begin with, and I value the knowledge and helpful demeaners here.

And much thanx to akflyer for getting me hooked up.

Key west

Great people to do business with!!!!

Had a 5 yr old unit, noticed a higher charge rate, they sent a new unit

Add them to great people to deal with, warp drive( Daryl ),Grand Rapids insterments !!!!!

Thanks for the update Dave. What did you end up doing with your cowling? I still haven't done anything with mine. I have been flying another plane most of the summer.

Just an update after flying through the hot part of Summer with the belly radiator. For the past few weeks temps have been in to mid to high 90's here and I still can't get the engine temps above 130 in a hard extended climb. I am going to have to tape off part of the radiator until I can find another way to keep it warm. It is a much better problem to have than the overheating issues I had with the side mounted radiator though.

Dan

I like the drywall compound to finish with because it makes it easier to get the finish flat and etc.  Also with the plug method a fair amount of the finishing is done after you lay up the glass.  Take a look at "Finishing a Composite Airplane" sorry no link with IE on this site.  I will post some more pictures when I get to that stage.

I tried to make my own cowling now 3 times, and I´m never satisfied with the results, perhaps I sucks at it, I found easier to make it from blue foam, but I can´t get a accurate way of having a perfect flat or curved surface, I use like planks with sand paper glued on it, and all different tools, same results.

I guess I have to be more patient!!

any tips from the experienced member are highly appreciated...

Regards

Dimi3

Hi Slinger,

You found a good place for information about these planes. I bought an old kit back in January, and I've been learning a lot from everyone here. Good luck with your project.

Luke D.

Thanks for sharing the pictures Paul. Looks good. I'm really looking forward to making my cowling. I like all the things you can do with fiberglass.

Good tips from everyone too. Some other things I didn't see mentioned yet, use some dacron for a peel ply layer (you can google how it's done). It really helps keep the weight down by eliminated too much excess resin. One really simple parts, I've used foam, cardboard, etc. covered in clear packing tape. The parts pop right off of the packing tape. I cut it in narrower strips for curved areas. Fun stuff!

Oh yeah, one more that I really like. Get one of these.

The small nylon one is my favorite because it's rounded, and the epoxy pops right off when it drys. Makes it easy to get the air bubbles out. You can get it and a lot of other stuff at http://www.fibreglast.com/

I have a Key West.  Never had any issues and it will run without an external load without issue.  

welcome art ,what do you think of your plane so far?they are wonderful planes once you get to know em

There are a number of Merlins in my area as Blue yonder is a local company.  The Merlin is a capable airplane and I have seen the very light ones fly on a 503.  Many fly on 582's with good performance.  Take off with the 582 and a 3 to 1 gearbox is 600 to 800 ft with a climb of about 1000 fpm.  Cruise is at about 65 to 75mph. Most fly with a 912 and this turns the plane into a nice solid performer with a cruise closer to 85 to 90mph.  Wayne (the manufacturer) has said his new tricycle gear Merlin shows cruise of 100 to 105.  The Merlin will be a great plane to fly.  Enjoy.    

Ed,

Use PVC foam (pink stuff at Home Depot/Lowes), and a little gas (or alcohol, or other things)will dissolve a lot of foam. Use that method when making small parts with fiberglass & a foam mold. Make the mold, layup the part, and if the foam won't come off easily, or the shape doesn't allow the foam to come out, dissolve the foam.

Mark

If my understanding is correct I will have to replace my reg/rec when I replace the points ign 532 with the electronic ign 582. What is the best bang for the buck in doing this change? I'm looking at these key west reg/rec http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/eppages/keywestregulator.php does this sound good? 

If you print the drawings I posted in files and forms, then  go to UPS or a copy store, they can enlarge them until the yardstick is actual  size - Lots cheaper than buying a pattern rib from Kitfox.  Just make sure your spar holes are the right distance apart.

EDMO 

Ed I use drywall mud for the final smoothing (the white color over the foam) and then just apply paste floor wax before the layup.  Also UVA mold release can be used or hair spray over the wax.  Meguirs makes a mold release wax called Mirror Glaze 88 that is available at most auto parts stores which is a paste wax.  The nice thing about the foam is that it is easy to carve.  I also use X-30 liquid foam to fill voids and the likes, a 1 qt kit is more than enough to do a cowl

Thanks Ed, I will check them out ,I will probably get a riblette to copy so I get it right

Paul,

     I layed up fiberglass on metal parts for years, and have done vacuum bagging, but never used a foam form - Is there something you need to do after getting the foam in the shape you want, before laying on the resin/cloth?  does it stick to the foam?

Thanks for posting.

EdMO