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  4. Av8r3400

    Posted

    I found these on Spruce.  Ordered this set with connectors and crimper.  I've used these before for work and know them to be quality and workable.  I didn't know Spruce had them...

     

    Now with the proper crimper and extractor tool I can use these elsewhere on the plane and other projects, too.

  5. jackak

    Posted

    If you're going to use the Stewart System products, get their cd's.  Very important to follow the directions or you end up with a less than satisfactory paint job.  I used a Wagner Conversion gun because my compressor is too small, only 6.5 cfm, to run a regular hvlp gun, they take around 9-11 cfm to run properly.  When I talked to Dan Stewart about using a turbine set-up, he said that the heat generated by the turbine would cause the paint to dry faster than you wanted and would not lay on smoothly.  He suggested using an additional length of hose and trying to cool the air by the additional length or laying the hose in a tub of ice water to cool the air. My paint job turned out pretty good, about a 5-10 footer, but I'm not a good painter.  Which ever gun you get try to get a selection of jets, the primer seemed to go on better with a 2.0, the paint with a 1.5mm jet. 

    I used the original Stewart System paint when the process first began, but finished the cowl and turtledeck usinf their premium paint.  The premium goes on much nicer and with fewer coats.  Check it out.  There are batch differences in the paint colors too, be ready to do all your painting when you start or you could end up with different shades of your chosen color.

    A word of advice on having and experienced painter do your job, if they try to use the traditional method to lay on the Stewart System products it doesn't work out very good. Way too much much paint is applied and runs result.  The directions must be followed.  Hope all this helps.

    Jackak

  9. Av8r3400

    Posted

    A turbine HVLP system is worlds away from a Wagner Power Painter.  

     

    People have had good luck with a roller too…   Roll and tip painting

     

    Larry, I understand that you are looking to be frugal with your finish system.  Maybe the best compromise between cost and result quality would be to talk to a local body shop about spraying the finish coat.  You are spending a bunch of money on paints.  Don't just throw it away with poor application.  

     

     

     

    Your results may vary.

  15. TJay

    Posted

    Ok Kitfox book says to go right on the vertical rib where you see the stamp, which is about 5 inches back from where it is right now. the only thing I wonder is the kitfox one hanges down about 4 inches where this one only hangs down 2.5 inches. With the under camber ribs wonder if mabey I should just use the kitfox one or try to lower this one with some fancy streamline bracket. what you think boys.

  17. FoxDB

    Posted

    It needs to be away from the leading edge. (Farther Back) Air flow in front of the leading edge is deflecting and will cause errors. I have an AOA indicator installed on my Model I and it is forward of the leading edge and indicates twice what the AOA is and is designed that way to increase readability.

  18. Av8r3400

    Posted

    I have the Dynon dual input AOA pitot tube that I am planning on using on the Mangy Fox.  I plan on placing it within the protection of the lift strut and jury strut area.

     

    I think your position will work fine.

  19. Guest

    Posted

    Certainly no expert on this, but my intuition says it should be further forward if possible to prevent leading edge pressure from potentially affecting readings. I really can't tell how far it hangs below the wing from the angle of the photo.