Activity Stream

Activity Stream

  1. EDMO added a post in a topic Cowl to windshiled fit problem   

    Simplest - and least messy - and cheapest - Just use 9460. You can rivet or not, but that would make a stronger joint. Different kinds of fiberglas epoxy dont mix or adhere to each other. I would not use Bondo.
    ED in MO
    P.S. I still like the idea of putting the rubber over the top of the flange to make a better seal to WS.
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  2. High Country added a post in a topic Cowl to windshiled fit problem   



    I have No "0" experience working with fiberglass so I have no idea where to start. What all do I need for this project, what type of epoxy, do I need cloth, etc. Is there some sort of small includes all kit that I could get that would do it for me?

    Thanks for the suggestions

    -Robert-
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  3. EDMO added a post in a topic where to get the lexan turtledeck?   

    I know you asked Joey, and I write too much anyway - But - the plastic slides in the same as your aluminum. There is an 1 1/2 or 2 inch aluminum strip bolted/riveted over the end of the skylight with the back edge just slightly turned and the TD butts against the back edge of the skylight. Mine is made with the windsheild and skylight being 2 pieces, so I can use dark for skylight, but the setup is the same for the TD.
    ED in MO
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  4. EDMO added a post in a topic Sandblast, wire brush, or soda blast ????   

    This is the ONLY instance of a Ridge runner accident I am aware of reported besides Kenny's chase that got him... actualy model 3 two passenger I was told. Look at the tubes... a lot of the structure seemed to try and hold it's own. The cabin is the weak link...it is a lot longer box structure from the earlier model 1 and 2 versions. These are mig welded as well. So...in normal ops I think it is not an issue. One can burn a piece of metal beyond safe use with a Tig if you don't know what you are doing. Once the metal has turned that ugly gun metal grey over the weld area and adjascent tube....well it's done. If you get a nice multi-colored weld bead [ blues and yellow hues ] over the entire weld ... then you are most likely to have a good , safe joint. I test scrap tube welds with pull test machine before welding the actual job... or other simple tests are easy to perform. We don't have to have samples lab tested.....yet.

    RR3 crash

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  5. EDMO added a post in a topic Cowl to windshiled fit problem   

    You might put the flange under the cowl, and sand each surface, epoxy together and blend the seam on the top with the extra epoxy.

    Sometimes my old brain works - hope this idea works.
    ED in MO
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  6. birddog486 added a post in a topic where to get the lexan turtledeck?   


    I cant zoom in close enough to the pictures posted here and the above question wasn't answered. I'm close to this point on my build. I've raised the skylight/butt ribs about 2.5" for some added head room and I'm not sure how I want to connect the lexan turtledeck to the windshield.

    I'm using .090 for the windshield and T deck and I'm also trying to picture if and how to fabric around the butt ribs or just paint them now that there raised. I've seen pics of another Avid that had taller butt ribs but they were from pretty far away



    Travis
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  7. C150L added a post in a topic One of my boys and my C build.   

    Thanks for the offer Ed but about all we need yet on the fuse is to position the strut attach fittings and weld them up. We already fabricated new parts.
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  8. High Country added a post in a topic Cowl to windshiled fit problem   


    Good idea Ed, I hadn't thought of this. I did cut the aluminum strip on the top back and got a little better fit. When I get some time off(been working long crazy hours with the fires all around us) I will try cutting it back and re-use the original flange. Maybe I could just glass it back in rather than rivets?

    -Robert-
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  9. Tree top pilot added a post in a topic Sandblast, wire brush, or soda blast ????   

    quote name='Ed In Missouri' date='22 September 2012 - 03:14 PM' timestamp='1348344883' post='8440']
    And that is probably why my KF1 broke AT THE WELDS when it was wrecked.
    ED in MO

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  10. EDMO added a post in a topic One of my boys and my C build.   

    OLD ED forgot to take his memory pill this morning.
    The strut fitting goes onto the tube behind the seat on floor - Duh!
    I have this tube from a wrecked Avid - They are a lot different than a Kitfox.
    Can send it to you if you want it.
    Just need address and postage.
    ED in MO
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  11. EDMO added a post in a topic One of my boys and my C build.   

    Think they did this on the TIP tanks too - Would have to read manual again.
    Dont make sense to me - Neither do tip tanks!
    ED in MO
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  12. EDMO added a post in a topic One of my boys and my C build.   

    Donno - You need to talk more to Avid builders rather than me on this.
    There is always a place for innovation in any of this.
    Be thankful that we are not "certified", then we would have to use part number XXXXX and not modify!
    Or, pay $$$$$ for an STC..!
    ED in MO
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  13. C150L added a post in a topic One of my boys and my C build.   


    Gotchca. Avid builder or not, all ideas, thoughts and suggestions appreciated. Too bad one can not use every thought/suggestion offered. Gives one somethings to think about though.
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  14. C150L added a post in a topic One of my boys and my C build.   


    Couldn't be wrong wing, the twist in the tanks for washout would be the wrong way, right?

    The one tank is still in the assembled wing. We have not broke that one down yet. Cap in on the inside of the wing. Wonder if I have a pic showing.
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  15. EDMO added a post in a topic One of my boys and my C build.   

    I am no expert on Avids - Just have the Magnum manual - they install the tank and THEN put a fiberglas cover over it - looks crazy to me - this is not the fiberglas leading edge either - Didnt know if other Avids did it.
    I am Kitfox builder.
    ED in MO
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  16. C150L added a post in a topic One of my boys and my C build.   



    Fiberglass over top of tank? You mean tanks, another fiberglass wing top cover instead of just fabric over the tanks? This Avid just had fabric over the tank.
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  17. EDMO added a post in a topic One of my boys and my C build.   

    My wheels turn slow - but they keep on turning - Dont understand why your caps are inboard and all other I have seen are outboard - are you sure that the tanks have not been put on the wrong wing???
    ED in MO
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  18. EDMO added a post in a topic One of my boys and my C build.   

    On the washout and wing tanks - Dont know if this will work for you, but - my outer edge of tank stuck up above the rib next to it, so I just added another ribcap on top of the original so fabric clears tank.
    Donno why Avid put fiberglas over top of tank and Kitfox dont? But you should be able to work this out.
    Mine was because I have two tanks in each wing - I still have the original 1 3/4 washout, but wish I didnt.
    ED in MO
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  19. EDMO added a post in a topic One of my boys and my C build.   

    I was asking Joey why his vent tubes on the caps stuck up so high - he told me it was to prevent overflow when wings were folded. Kitfox says to only fold them with 1/2 tanks, but that is not always practical.
    BTW: On gas caps - better to buy the UNVENTED and add the tubes to them - Otherwise, you need to add epoxy to block the internal vents to keep them from leaking when folded, and maybe while flying - IMO.
    Sorry, I forgot that fuselage tube might be in the way for locating the lower fittings. Try making a couple of spacers or something that extends the attach tube hole out, and.........? Maybe you can get some measurements from another Avid?
    Ed in MO
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  20. C150L added a post in a topic One of my boys and my C build.   


    Thanks Ed. Didn't think about the caps on the other end coupled with folded wings and the tail on the ground. That's probably the best reason to leave them where they are.

    Looked at dropping a plumb line from the rear carry though/wing attach tube down to the strut attach but there is that vertical tube of the rear door opening that blocks one from doing such. May have to explore other meas of lining it up, similar to what you sate but get around that vertical tube.

    AK, Will be a hard call as to if it's worth it to open the other wing tank and take some the 2" washout from it. You say if you open your wings again you will go to 1/2". Can that be done with wings tanks as is?
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  21. akflyer added a post in a topic One of my boys and my C build.   

    If I ever have my wings open again, they will go to 1/2" washout. The 2" in there now is stupid and leave alot of stol and cruise on the table.


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  22. akflyer added a post in a topic My first flying machine   

    Mitchel A10 I think

    Looks like lotsa fun!


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  23. jlpeet added a topic in Avid fox flyers pics and vids   

    My first flying machine
    I'll see if I can post a couple pictures. Let's see if anyone knows what this is.
    After my first two bad landings, I put over 100 hours on this thing with no further mishaps.
    I sold it to make room for my Avid. Wish I still had it, it was a lot of fun.

    Jim


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  24. EDMO added a post in a topic One of my boys and my C build.   

    From a builder who always has 2 cents worth (seems like no-sense at times)
    The dihedral is probably not as much concern as the leakage when wings are folded and point downhill.
    Your wings will rock a lot more than the dihedral.
    With the plane leveled, If you drop a plumbline or level from the rear crossover attach tube center, then that should be the center of your bottom strut fitting hole.
    1/2 inch of washout is supposed to give you a little more cruise - but is it worth the work? You decide.
    HOPE this helpsd - now wait for some more "intelligent?" answers.
    ED in MO
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  25. C150L added a post in a topic One of my boys and my C build.   

    Wished I had time to get back to posting other accomplishments on this plane but just time for the present.

    The one wing tanks had a couple small issues due to the excursion into that tree. Anyway, we removed the top sheet, verified all is well inside other than some rattling Plexus adhesive used to adhere the top sheet. (Was also some crazing in the top sheet.

    We have the materials needed to replace the top sheet. Local fiberglass place looked all over and made recommendations. This shop makes a fiberglass aircraft being sold all over the world, so I guess they know what they are talking about.

    We bought a new top sheet from them, which they use in their wing tanks. Too bad, it's enough to redo both tanks, which we might do for a couple reasons. Thus, I ave a couple questions.

    We'll be salvaging the cap fitting(s) for for reuse in the repaired tank. These filler caps are both close to the root end of the tank. With some dihedral in the wing, would there be any reason for not moving that filler some distance outward to allow a bit more fuel? I know one would not want to take all air from the tanks and really "top it off", but what about half way out or just leave where they are?

    We talked about taking some washout out of the wings on rebuild. Kind of hard with the 2" WO built into these tanks. The tank we have open, we can put it where ever we want. If we redo the other tank, we could put the washout where ever we want. Would it be worth doing the other tanks and going to 1" in the wash out?

    Thanks in advance for any thoughts.

    Dale
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