Activity Stream

Activity Stream

  1. akflyer added a post in a topic Best way to remove powder coating   

    If its just small areas I used a wire wheel and it takes it right off.  you can also hit the area with a propane torch and just warm it up and the coating will bubble up and come right off.  Clean up with a hand wire brush.  I am not talking about hitting the tubes with the torch till they turn bright red   just warm them up enough for the coating to bubble up and your golden.
     

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  2. akflyer added a post in a topic Still Flying on skis   

    The snow at our aiport is all but gone.  No way to taxi from the ramp to the ski strip.  It is 45 in soldotna right now!  Looks like your going to have to come to Alaska to warm up   You landscape looks just like ours for about a 30 mile radius, then we get into mountains. 
     
    Nice clean looking bird
     

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  3. 1avidflyer added a topic in Avidfoxflyers General Hangar   

    Still Flying on skis
    I was unsure how to title this topic, I almost went with Global warming? or something like that. At any rate, I went flying with skis on yesterday from my strip. Actually had to pack the latest snowfall down with the snowmobile first though. Went back over my log book and couldn't find any year in the last 7 that I was still on skis in April. Looking at the forcast, I might still be on skis at the first of May. Mn at it's best! A friend of mine said his dad was ice fishing a couple of days ago, and the ice was still about 4' thick. Oh well, here are a few pics I took yesterday as proof. Enjoy! Jim

    Just looked at how the post looked, and see that the pictures show up as 4-7-2013flying. That's just the folder I stuck them in, I really did take them yesterday. Oh by the way, yesterday morning at 4 AM, we had +1 F oficial temp. at the Hibbing airport.




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  4. RDavidson added a post in a topic Best way to remove powder coating   

    Thanks guys...I'll report what works.

    Thanks,
    Ron
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  5. dholly added a post in a topic North Carolina   

    Headed to Wright Brothers National Memorial at First Flight Airport I believe.
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  6. Mendlerr added a post in a topic North Carolina   

    where at in NC?  You may be close to me, I'd love to take a look at some other fox's
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  7. akflyer added a post in a topic North Carolina   

    Sounds like a nice lil trip!  I am expecting pictures of the museum and a trip report soon!  I know you are getting some sweet pics as you make your way across the country
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  8. Av8r3400 added a topic in Local Fly in's   

    North Carolina
    I and a group of eight other LSA flyers flew yesterday from northern Wisconsin to Dayton Ohio on our way out to NC.

    We had great weather with good tailwinds. I got up as high as 10,500 for a 30 kt tailwind - smooth as glass!

    We're going to spend the day today at the Airforce museum here, then on to NC tomorrow. Maybe.
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  9. horsepower added a post in a topic Enigine to Ground straps   

    My Battery is mounted on the firewall on my Skyraider so I ran a ground directly to the starter and from there directly to the solonoid base and another one to one of the housing bolts.Im a firm believer in plenty of grounds,a bad ground can cause other problems.Randy
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  10. Deejayel added a topic in Technical tasks   

    Enigine to Ground straps
    I installed my 618 on the kfiv today. Is there a "best" lug to install the engine-to-ground strap? I noticed the starter was ground strapped to the housing and the housing is bolted to the case, so for the heavy starter current to flow, would any case bolt work? I suppose i would(should) have attached it to one of the 2 lugs holding the starter to the housing, but now i cannot get to them without pulling the engine again.
    Thanks
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  11. Av8r3400 added a post in a topic Best way to remove powder coating   

    I was quoted $700 to sandblast and repowder the mangy fox from a local place.
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  12. dholly added a post in a topic Best way to remove powder coating   

    I looked on the 'net a couple years back and saved this info, never tried them:

    Eastwood Aerosol Paint and Powder Stripper P/n 10550ZP
    Eastwood Gel Paint and Powder Stripper P/n 12724ZP

    Here is a low voc eco friendly alternative: http://www.mileschemicalsolutions.com/Powder_Coating_Stripper_Home.htm

    When using strippers, remember powder coatings are more solvent resistant than other coatings and may require more time than paint to remove. To speed results, cover the part with a heavy coating of remover and cover the remover with saran wrap or a plastic bag to prevent evaporation.

    If you only need to do a small amount, you can try this:

    Permatex Gasket Remover p/n 80646 (NAPA equivalent is p/n 765-1230), it comes in a 12 oz can. One more thing...there is a 'new' Permatex Gasket Remover, part number 80645, and it WILL NOT remove powder coating. You must use 80646.

    If you try any of these please report back on efficacy.
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  13. larrym added a post in a topic Best way to remove powder coating   

    I've used a wire wheel. Access may be a bit difficult, but if you can get some off, then sandpaper may work. I have also tried to burn it off with a torch, then sand.

    larry
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  14. RDavidson added a topic in Avid Flyer General Hangar   

    Best way to remove powder coating
    Fellas,

    I need to do a little welding on my fuselage. What do you use to get powder coating off the tubes?
    I'm just removing about 6" on a tube or two.


    Thanks,
    Ron
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  15. Mendlerr added a post in a topic Kitfox IV Questions   

    the oil bath seeping oil is due to a lower seal, I had it looked at and was told it would be no issue.  when the engine is under load and warmed up it seeps no oil, only once it cools down and sits on the tail for a few nights.  I was told as long as the level is checked before each flight I should have no issues.
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  16. RDavidson added a post in a topic Gear swap... Number 3...Bush Gear part deux   

    Jim,

    I just searched the Internet and couldn't find any pics that showed urathane bushings. My info is second hand, but it is from a guy that builds Cub and Supercub landing gear for a living. I'll ask him again so I'm sure I'm not giving you bad info...

    If you look at a Cub/SCub gear their cabane V attaches to a bracket inboard of the front gear mount...the Airdale bush gear attaches around the front mount with the same bolt the gear leg uses...Right? This could be another cause of the bending. I base this on a service bulletin from Cub Crafters, where they call for the use of thicker brackets to be used. Evidently, they were having problems with hard, one wheeled landings bending the brackets and sending the force of the landing through the airframe and bending other tubes in the frame.

    I'm not dogging the Airdale Bush Gear...I'm just pointing out some things I'm running into while trying to build a new gear for my Magnum. The Airdale Bush Gear won't fit my Magnum or I would have put it on already and you would have never seen all of the BS above. I believe all Avids (except the Magnum) have a low enough gross weight that you could use a shopping cart for a landing gear and it will work on a real landing strip. However, if you take your Avid and use it like a bush plane, you should probably make that shopping cart look like a bush plane's gear...right? I think the Airdale gear is a good, quick to install, inexpensive, taller and wider gear. Hell, it makes our planes look like they should. However, I think calling it a Bush Gear almost sets us up for failure...

    I'm sure the AK fellas on here know more about this than I do. SuperAvid designed his own bungee gear with a third attach point for some of these reasons.

    Just my opinions, and they can change,
    Ron
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  17. jackak added a post in a topic Dual Brakes and Parking Valve Install on a KF4-1200   

    Doug,
     
    Yes, the tubing is the Parker Parflex .035 wall.  I was a little concerned using the .035 walll, but the tech at MATCO said it was up to the task, so I ordered it.  No one I talked to would stick their neck out and recommend heating the tubing to help shape it, but acknowledged that I was doing it and never said that it would weaken the tubing in any way.  I don't have any pics of the parking brake install, but it's in the center of the fuselage on the right side of the elevator push-pull tube, about mid-seat.  I just put a piece of aluminum on top of the belly tubes and used some angle to provide a spot to clamp the cable housing.  The lever on my valve moves very smoothly and have no problem positioning it with the cable.  To provide a stop for the valve arm, I just put a short piece of plastic tubing on the wire and when you pull the parking brake on, the arm bumps against the tubing when it's in the park position.  The remote reservior is centered on the firewall, probably not the best spot, that location had me routing the lines through the pilots left pedal and the copilots right pedal first, to prevent kinking the tubing.  Your mounting position on the KF looks like it might be a better place.  I don't know if there is a best place under the panel, I've debated moving the reservior to th engine side to make servicing easier, or to reopen the acess panel I cut in the boot cowl to get to the Rotax oil tank when I was considering the use of my old 582.  I could have pretty easy access that way, but don't like the idea of possible water leaks when it rains.
     
    I'll see if I can get a few picture soon and post them.
     
    Jack 
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  18. 1avidflyer added a post in a topic Whirlwind prop service letter   

    If you guys remember my laszer prop pictures I posted a few months ago, that is a very helpfull tool for seeing the blades twist when you tighten the hub bolts. By only tightening one side until the blade starts to twist and then doing the other bolts you see what's happening right as it starts to twist. Jim
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  19. 1avidflyer added a post in a topic Gear swap... Number 3...Bush Gear part deux   

    Do you by chance have any pictures of the urathane bushings and how they fit in where they do? Dosen't the Highlander use a three legged gear? I wonder if that is why? Questions, questions.... Thanks, Jim
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  20. RDavidson added a post in a topic Whirlwind prop service letter   

    FYI...Whirlwind sent everyone, with the 78" prop, new, improved hubs to solve the problem...they suggest checking for cracks in the new hub every 25 hours.

    The original cracked hub is still an isolated incident with a cub, O-340, 78" prop.

    I'm super pleased with Whirlwind! Great customer service and company responsibility!

    Ron
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  21. RDavidson added a post in a topic Gear swap... Number 3...Bush Gear part deux   

    I hate to jump in here, because I barely know what I'm talking about. However, I've been working with a guy to build a cabane style gear for my Magnum. The biggest issue we ran into was the fact that the axle is so far forward of the first gear mount. On the Magnum it is about 6" forward of the center of the front mount. This means the cabane V and suspension legs have to be angled about 10 degrees. Normal cabanes, cub style, are perpendicular to the bottom longerons, with the axle being directly below the front mount. The cubs have a new STC that allows them to add a new gear that moves the axle 3" forward of the front mount. When they did this they used urethane bushings at the cabane V/suspension leg attach point to allow the extra movement that happens when the geometry is not normal (axle and front mount perpendicular to bottom longeron).

    I'm sure that is clear as mud...but here is my question...does the Airdale bush gear have urethane bushings at the cabane V lower attach points? I believe most of the Avids axles are 3"-4" forward of the front mount...Right?

    Evidently, when the axle is moved forward, during landings and especially if side loads are involved, the suspension leg has rotational forces applied to it, that is why the urethane bushings are there...to give the joint the freedom to move.

    So, if the urethane bushings aren't there, the connection at the V would be too rigid causing tubing to bend at the weakest point.

    This is secondhand knowledge, with my limited comprehension, from an engineer. So take it with a grain of salt...

    I wonder if this is causing some of the issues?


    Ron
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  22. larry.mahoney added a post in a topic Should I buy this 1990 MK IV?   

    Gentlemen, you are 'spot on'. Here's the reply I received when I questioned the Avid based on your knowledge.  Please keep me in mind if you know of anyone who is selling a quality IV at a just price.
     
    Thanks again
     
     
    Hi Larry
    I appreciate your interest.
    My son has expressed interest in the plane.   So I will be pulling it off Barnstormers.
    With respect to the Model.  I was told when I bought it that it was a Mk4.  I did not check, I took his word for it.  But I believe it is as you indicate below.  I have not got the original bill of sale for the kit so I cannot verify the model.  But looking at the literature, it appears it is a B with the rudder modifications to make it a C.  Gross weight is 900 lbs with the speed wings, and that is what is on the name plate.

    Regards
    Jerry    
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  23. napierm added a post in a topic What's the proper way to repair this?   

    As you begin your inspection, *don't* cut the fabric.  I've repaired a few places on my III and helped with other fabric repairs.  Your can peel the fabric off.  If it was covered the standard way, peel the tape up from the side enough to show the edge of the top fabric.  Then peel the top fabric off leaving the tape attached.  Preserve all the tapes.  Then peel the side fabric off from around the top tubes.  Hopefully you don't have to take it loose from the bottom too.  If you do have to take the bottom off then try to peel from under the bottom of the sides 1st and *don't* disturb the side or upper tapes: just peel from the inside.  The idea is to leave the finish tapes undisturbed along with that expensive finish.  A thin dull knife helps to separate the fabric from around the tube.  This takes patience but it's well worth doing.
     
    As for the bent tubes, I made a simple tool that has a 1/16' chromoly strap and a half "U" block.  The idea is that the strap goes around the tube and about 1 inch away the U presses against the tube.  The is enough steel on the U block than you can get a cheater bar on it.  Draw a sketch or two and you should get it.  I can post a picture.  Anyway, you can slowly work out the bends.  Unlikely that the tube is buckled.  It can be cold worked a long way.
     
    When the tubes are strait again, the fabric can be glued back on in the reverse order you peeled it off.  The tape gets glued down last.  If done carefully the only line left is the zig-zag seam at the edge of the one tape that you pulled up on one side.  That can be touched up.  If you're real lucky even that may line up.  If you peeled from underneath even that will be hidden and no one will see it.  Once glued back down tight the fabric has some shrink left in it that can be taken up by carefully using a hobby model airplane covering heat gun.
     
    I know this isn't the recommended method but I've seen it work and used it myself.
     
    Good luck,
     
    Mark Napier
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  24. EDMO added a post in a topic Kitfox IV Questions   

    Richard / Doug,
    After months of indecisions, I have finally decided to add the Ribblet mods to my undercambered ribs, after extending the leading edge 3 3/4 inches, and not ready to cover yet.
    - Mine wont be exactly what he showed, because there would be an interference in the rear strut bolt attachment if I go by his drawings, so I modified the rear part, and ended the addition of the lower capstrip at the rear spar, and will just have to see how it acts in comparison with standard stol wings. This wont cost as much as adding the VGs under the leading edge, but I can also try that later on if I am not happy with cruise improvements. He says there will be little difference in lift, and I have long runways down here anyway. Hope to report someday.
    Can post photos when done.
    ED in MO
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  25. EDMO added a post in a topic GAS CAPS WITH TUBES - PRICES?   

    No problem - just back to DIY - which is where I started - still got my sconce tubes and a tubing bender if I need it.Thanks,
    Ed
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