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Activity Stream



  1. tbucket added a post in a topic Attack on the forum   

    <If I ever find one of these little punk hackers, I will make sure he never gets a chance to use a pc again.  He gonna look real funny trying to operate a computer with his fingers gone and his mouth wired shut!>
     
     don't blame you on this I have had my yahoo account hacked a few times and it was very irritating...... probably someone that is just bored
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  2. tbucket added a post in a topic kitfox ribs in the elevator   

    Thanks for the reply  I have a cougar [a tailwind clone] and it is also has flat elevators but I wanted to be sure that I was not missing something that I should have done while I am recovering......
    thanks Bob
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  3. EDMO added a post in a topic Coolant radiator   

    Eric,
    I don't know anything about the 912 setup, but the guy I got my Subaru from had it in a Pelican, and he mounted the radiator inside the cowl, more or less, by hanging it at an angle from the lower firewall at the rear opening of the cowl. He said he made a tunnel inside the cowl to feed fresh air to the radiator, and to keep the hot exhaust pipe air away from it. He extended the tunnel past the back of the radiator and narrowed it there to increase the outflow.
    Hope this gives you an idea.
    EDMO
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  4. EDMO added a post in a topic Kitfox wings on an Avid   

    Jim, I don't think you will find very little difference - I am talking about 1/4 or 3/8 inch on the spar attach. Don't think it is enough to worry about HS - The later models have an adjustable HS, and all that does is give less deflection of the elevator to trim for cruise, IMO.
    EDMO
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  5. Eric Hendriks added a topic in Technical tasks   

    Coolant radiator
    Hello
     
    I have a KF 3 with a Rotax 912 and I am looking for a way to mount a radiator inside the cowling.
    How are the radiators mounted in the Avid
    I don"t like the way they are mounted on a kitfox and the other side is that if I have to order the radiator and pipes from kitfox it will cost me a fortune to get the parts in Europe.
     
    Thank You
     
     
    Eric Hendriks 
    • 11 replies
    • 2,244 views


  6. 1avidflyer added a post in a topic Kitfox wings on an Avid   

    When you say the incidence is different, would one have to mount the Avid horizontal stab. at a different angle to ovecome this?? Thanks, Jim
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  7. lv2plyguitar added a topic in Avidfoxflyers General Hangar   

    Aircraft Performance Chart
    Does anyone know if AVID ever published a aircraft performance chart to determine takeoff and landing distances with varying temperatures and pressure systems.
     
    Thanks
    • 6 replies
    • 1,052 views


  8. EDMO added a post in a topic Attack on the forum   

    Leni, its the NSA trying to see if flying chainsaws are a threat to King O.....
    EDMO
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  9. EDMO added a post in a topic kitfox ribs in the elevator   

    And, Taylorcraft, and so many more....EDMO
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  10. akflyer added a post in a topic Attack on the forum   

    I have not had any issues on my PC or phone and no warnings.  I have gotten on using IE, Firefox and Chrome.
     
    I wonder how often those guys update the anti virus software..
     
    Oh well, its only money, I dropped another ticket to invision to have a tech look it over and make sure nothing is amiss..
     
    Bare with me again guys, it may be a rough couple of days before its all sorted out again.
     
    If I ever find one of these little punk hackers, I will make sure he never gets a chance to use a pc again.  He gonna look real funny trying to operate a computer with his fingers gone and his mouth wired shut!
     

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  11. EDMO added a post in a topic Attack on the forum   

    They are just wanting to help us sign up for Obamacare!
    Maybe give us a free Obamaphone?
    EDMO
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  12. akflyer added a post in a topic kitfox ribs in the elevator   

    The plane to beat for 70 yrs has been the cub... it has flat surfaces back there.  I wouldnt waste the time to di it unless you just like the look.
     

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  13. BryceKat added a post in a topic Attack on the forum   

    Leni,
    Jim Chuck or John Miller said on the Yahoo site that when they tried to get on this site yesterday on their pc, google said the site was unsafe and wouldn't let them on. I'm on an iPhone yesterday and today and had no problems. Thanks for all you do! Bryce
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  14. EDMO added a post in a topic kitfox ribs in the elevator   

    According to what I have read in Barnaby Wainfain's writings, (he is an aeronautical engineer and wrote books on wings, ribs, etc), he says that there are plenty of planes that flew well with the flat HS, elevators, and VS, rudders, even the fast Wittman Tailwind. I am guessing that you might get a slightly better action with the intercostals, and I will probably put them on mine for the looks, or to keep the fabric away from the internal tubes, but probably not worth the effort otherwise, IMO.
    EDMO
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  15. akflyer added a post in a topic EG's other Kitfox   

    Jealous!  I have always wanted to fly one.  The guys with the 912 powered ones are doing some amazing stuff with them!
     
    Nice bird Mr!
     

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  16. akflyer added a topic in Avidfoxflyers General Hangar   

    Attack on the forum
    Guys,
     
    the last few days we have had a "guest" reporting damn near every post on here.  For the time being, I am going to have to ban the guests from seeing or reading the various forums.  If someone wants to be on the site, they are going to have to register.
     
    Will let you know when the little perp has been found and I can ban only that IP.
     

    • 5 replies
    • 725 views


  17. egp8111 added a post in a topic EG's other Kitfox   

    yes 582 greyhead.
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  18. C5Engineer added a post in a topic EG's other Kitfox   

    Two stroke powered?
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  19. Av8r3400 added a post in a topic kitfox ribs in the elevator   

    They are supposed to be an aerodynamic speed benefit. At the speeds these planes travel (~100 mph) IMO the jury is still out on their true benefit.

    A secondary benefit is the ridiculous rudder hinge setup in the later model Kitfoxes. They use rod end bearings. Which make for an extremely difficult assembly, adjustment and faring construction.
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  20. Av8r3400 added a post in a topic Kitfox wings on an Avid   

    I posted that. The incidence is different in the 1-3 Kitfoxes, but the wing construction is the same. It wouldn't be a factor in this type of project.
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  21. C5Engineer added a post in a topic New member intro   

    Old thread of the day bump... We sure have all grown alot since this place's inception.
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  22. C5Engineer added a topic in Technical tasks   

    Lexan strut fairing how to
    Stole this from another site. Seems like a PIA to do a big strut but it might come in handy for someone.
     
    LEXAN STRUT FAIRINGS

    I experimented with different ways to streamline my struts and other exposed tubing for years. I finally found a way that works well, looks good, and is light and inexpensive, using polycarbonate (Lexan) film. They come out lighter and cleaner looking than any other strut fairing I've seen.

    The film (which is what they call anything thinner than 0.060") is available from:
    Plexiglass Sheet, Acrylic Sheet, PLEXIGLASS ONLINE STORE, UHMW, Industrial Plastic Sheet, Rod or McMaster-Carr

    They stock the polycarbonate film in 2' by 4' sheets, and roll it for shipping. It looks best if you do the entire strut in one piece. But making a segment more than 4' long would be quite difficult. Plan on wasting a couple full sheets for practicing and goofs.

    I found that 0.015" thick film is ideal for tubing 1" diameter or less. 0.020" is best for larger diameters, but will also work on smaller tubing for planes that fly a little faster than U/L speeds. Streamline any tubing that's near perpendicular to the air flow.

    Expect to gain about 1 mph in cruise speed for every 4' of tubing you streamline. I put about 28' of it on my experimental U/L, and gained 7 mph in cruise and top speed... which is huge. And the plane climbs and glides a lot better. I don't recommend this streamlining method for faster experimentals. It's also not suitable on tubing that vibrates a lot.

    A 4 to 1 chord to camber ratio is standard for strut fairings on faster planes. But Lexan fairings with that much chord won't look right nor hold their shape well. At U/L speeds, 3.5 to 1 is just as effective, and looks and works well. Even 3 to 1 is a reasonable compromise, especially for large diameters.

    CUTTING

    The film comes with a protective plastic on both sides. One side is translucent white, and the other is clear. Leave both on for now.

    Cut strips of film about 7" wide for 1" struts, 9" wide for 1.25" struts, and proportionately wider for larger struts. Measure it accurately, mark it with an ordinary pen on the white side, and cut it very carefully with sharp scissors. Once you get the touch, you can just push the scissors through in a continuous motion. Cut the end of the strip to the length of your strut. Or you can leave it full length and cut off whichever end looks worse after heat forming.

    HEAT FORMING

    Heat forming the leading edge is the touchiest step. Using spring clamps every few inches to clamp the trailing edges together, carefully bend the film into a "U", without creasing it much, with the white side out, and the trailing edges perfectly aligned. Stand it up on the spring clamp handles with the leading edge up.

    Using a heat gun set on low, pointed straight down very close to the leading edge of the film, begin heating the leading edge using side to side strokes several inches long, starting at one end. The film will get a sharper curve on its leading edge when it reaches the right temperature.

    But the melting point of the film is just a few degrees hotter than the heat forming temperature. So it is extremely easy to overheat a spot which creates a dip in the leading edge. You have to work slow, using a smooth, continuous motion with the heat gun.

    It takes practice to get just the right curvature and no melted spots. And the longer the piece, the greater your chances of melting a spot. A melted spot will look like a dent in the leading edge, and is impossible to remove.

    I heat formed the one in the second picture a little too much. Yours should come out a little wider.

    The camber of the airfoil will decrease as you heat form it. Heat form it just enough so the camber of the completed fairing is a little less than the diameter of the strut. In other words, the strut will hold it apart a tad. If you heat form it too much or too little, the airfoil won't be as efficient. Heat form it evenly over the whole length.

    For larger strut diameters, you can make a larger radius leading edge by angling the heat gun and making two passes, about 1/2" to each side of the center of the leading edge.

    When you're done, remove the spring clamps and the protective plastic from both sides of the film.

    TRAILING EDGE ALIGNMENT

    Now another touchy step. The trailing edges need to be lined up with each other both chord-wise and span-wise. A span-wise misalignment will create a twist in the completed fairing that will look terrible and be less aerodynamic. Even if you cut the ends of the film carefully, you can't judge span-wise alignment by the ends.

    Clamp the trailing edges together on a straight 3/4" by 3/4" or 1" by 1" board, at least as long as your fairing, with spring clamps, with at least 1/2" of the trailing edges hanging past the wood, and the trailing edges aligned chord-wise.

    Support it by the wood only, above your workbench, with the leading edge facing horizontal, out towards you. Stand back several feet, and see how the bottom of the leading edge is parallel to the bottom of the board, comparing the ends. Be super critical.

    The forth picture is way twisted.

    You can work the top film to one side, by pushing hard with your thumb between the clamps, starting at one end and pushing towards the end you want to lower, momentarily releasing each clamp as you go. Keep working it until the ends of the leading edge are perfectly even, relative to the wood, and the trailing edges are lined up. It's okay if the middle bows a little. But if it has a big bow, remove all the clamps, flip the fairing over, and try again.

    The fifth picture is straight, and ready to be taped.

    TAPING

    Buy a roll of 1" wide, 3M brand, clear, 8672, urethane (leading edge) tape from an aircraft supply store. (Aircraft Spruce part number 09-00841). It costs about $57 for a 36 yard roll, plus shipping.

    Tape the trailing edges together in segments between the clamps. For practice pieces, you can just use masking tape instead of the urethane. Then remove the clamps and tape those areas. Handle the urethane tape with freshly washed hands. Firmly rub the tape with a fingernail or something to fully bond it, until it turns clear.

    Slip the completed fairing over a piece of strut tubing. With the trailing edge towards you, stand back, and make sure it's not twisted. If it's twisted, you'll have to clamp it back onto the wood, get it straight, and tape it again. Do not reuse the urethane tape.

    INSTALLATION

    Install the fairings on your struts, and clamp them in place as hard as you can with 2 bar clamps. Stand behind the plane and carefully align the trailing edges to the wind. Then attach the fairings with small, aluminum, protruding head, pop rivets, spaced about every foot. Be real careful the drill doesn't slip and ruin your nice new fairing. It helps to pilot the rivet holes with a tiny drill bit.

    You can slash cut the ends of the fairing parallel to the wind on struts that angle. Be sure to allow extra length for that when you make the fairing. And you can melt holes in the fairings with a soldering iron for hardware and things that protrude.



    • 2 replies
    • 1,822 views


  23. tbucket added a topic in Avid Flyer General Hangar   

    kitfox ribs in the elevator
    What is the benefit of the ribs in the tail [rudder;elevator] I think that it might be for more strength but is it more aerodynamic too. I have an avid and I don't  have them would it be better to install them? 
    thanks Bob
    • 9 replies
    • 2,020 views


  24. C5Engineer added a post in a topic Did you guys see this KF 4 on Eflea?   

    Merged the two topics into one
     
    Seems pretty pricey to me with a lot of unknowns. A 912 that is way out of date could be very expensive to get up to specs depending on the serial number. Several nice flying IV's with 912's have sold for mid-high 20's lately. Thanks for posting it there seems to not be too many of them out there for sale. 15K sounds reasonable for a project not 20+
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  25. 1avidflyer added a post in a topic Kitfox wings on an Avid   

    What got me thinking about this is I need to rebuild some Avid wings. There are a couple of Kitfox 3 wings for sale for what I think is a resonable price. I know someone recently posted a message explaining what was different about the wings. I knew about the difference in the lift struts, but there was something else mentioned and thats what I'm trying to find out. I think it was the incidence of the wings, but I'm not sure. Jim
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