Activity Stream

Activity Stream



  1. EDMO added a post in a topic Vertical Stab Tubing Model III KF   

    Larry,
    I was thinking that the Vixen, or one of the model 5/6, used a square tube, and was shrouded by a tapered fiberglass cover, while the rudder had a round tapered fiberglass forward shroud cover - Have to check my books on that one.
    I have both of the fiberglass covers.
    EDMO
    Larry, I have attached a copy of manual - the enlarged inset at upper left clearly shows the square VS vertical tube. I have other pages, but this shows it best.
    EDMO
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  2. Av8r3400 added a post in a topic Vertical Stab Tubing Model III KF   

    Which model used a square tube on the tail, Ed?  
     
    My Mangy Fox is a Classic-IV and used the rod end bearing method of rudder hinge until I cut them off.  It uses round tube on the entire fuselage.  No square tube anywhere.
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  3. Jbird added a post in a topic Mag check   

    Thanks for the replays we did check the tach with a tiny tach the rpm,s were correct .now we're going to clean the grounds and see where that takes us thanks again
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  4. EDMO added a post in a topic Vertical Stab Tubing Model III KF   

    The model 1 had a flimsy tail - If you extend it to model 4 heights, you need to do some reinforcing to make it strong enough. This would mean adding some support tubes, and increasing the vertical O.D. and wall thickness - one model used a square tube there, but it used the rods ends for hinges. I added a 6" taller dorsal fin to mine, along with more support tubes. I don't like airplane tails that shake when on the ground!
    EDMO
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  5. FoxDB added a post in a topic Vertical Stab Tubing Model III KF   

    I believe the more important question is; what is the OD & wall thickness of both vertical tubes of a Mod 4? The builder of my mod 1 extended the vert to be as a mod 4, but when flying it, if the rubber was fully deflected at cruise the vert would deflect about 3" at the top. This made be uncomfortable so I added guy wires.
    Dave
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  6. Av8r3400 added a topic in Jokes   

    Epic...
    The Judge walked in and was about to call the courtroom to order when he noticed that one of the litigants was not only the most beautiful woman he had ever laid his eyes on, but she was completely topless!
     
    She took her place at the table and sat down.
     
    The judge spoke up and said, "Excuse me Miss, but you can not present yourself in this courtroom in that manner."
     
    She said, "Your honor, with all due respect I can, because I have an epic right."
     
    The judge replied, "Well, your left one ain't bad either, but you still can't be in court like that!"
     
     
     
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  7. Boat added a post in a topic 3rd Annual Boonville Salute to Veterans Fly-In   

    Rescheduled to Nov. 16th due to runway project that will not be completed by this weekend.
     
    Lee
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  8. EDMO added a post in a topic Looking for nosewheel.   

    I haven't seen it posted, and I am not a fan of tail-draggers, but I think most of the problems with them concern the alighnment, tailwheel, and the weight on the tail - You can get more info from the guys that use them - I think that most are happiest with the Matco 8" tailwheel - donno whether that is the double-fork or not.
    I know the J3 is very picky about which tailwheel is on it. I only had the standard tailwheel on my Kitfox 2, but it could have been improved with a replacement from Matco.
    EDMO - Happiest with Nose-dragger.
    BTW: I have a spring-loaded nosewheel attachment for the Avid - ChrisB had one on his Avid which has been pictured on the ad and on here. They sold new for $1000, but are no longer made. I can post a photo if anyone wants to see it. I sent drawings to Steve.
    EDMO
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  9. EDMO added a post in a topic KITFOX STRUT TUBE SIZES?   

    Jim,
    Leni and I both used 1" x .058 wall tubes for our struts - I am fairly sure that Kitfox uses .049 wall.
    I donno what Leni used for rod ends - my originals on the model 2 were 5/16 male thread x 1/4" hole - they were threaded into a solid piece welded into the tubes - I found four 7/16 male thread x 5/16 hole NOS at a bargain on the internet, and put 7/8 diameter x 3" long 4130 female threaded ends that I had made into my tubes and welded them per AC43-13, only to find out that there is not enough room for the rod ends to fit in my spar brackets, so I am making an adapter to mate them to my brackets.
    You could cut 6 inches off of each end of your struts, and weld 7/8 spacers on them, and then weld the 1" tubes to them - That would be a lot easier than trying to make a split tube and weld it full length over your old tubes.
    Hope this helps or gives you some ideas.
    EDMO
    EDMO
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  10. 1avidflyer added a post in a topic KITFOX STRUT TUBE SIZES?   

    Not saying this is the right way to do it, but I just had this thought. If both ends of the lift strut were strong enough from the factory, and it was just the 3/4" tube that was a bit to light, what if one were to split a 7/8" tube lengthwise and weld it over the 3/4" tube to further stiffen it up. I was first thinking half of the 7/8" tube in the front of each 3/4" tube, but maybe a thinner wall 7/8" tube and use both sides on each 3/4" tube. Probably be a bit heavier than a 1" tube, but a lot less work. I haven't thought about it for long, so feel free to shoot it down if it sounds stupid. ) Jim Chuk
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  11. High Country added a post in a topic KITFOX STRUT TUBE SIZES?   

    you beat me to it!!! thanks
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  12. Av8r3400 added a post in a topic KITFOX STRUT TUBE SIZES?   

    They make actual an grade threaded tube ends to weld in.

    http://www.pilotshop.com/catalog/appages/an490.php?gclid=Cj0KEQiAsueiBRCT8YOM4PDElsYBEiQAaiI4IIu410JSy6F0uTItIgqg8dS-H-wMhd5Q4oNkNmNF01QaAqU_8P8HAQ

    Some of the smaller threaded ends from Avid were actually socket head cap screws welded into the tube!
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  13. High Country added a post in a topic KITFOX STRUT TUBE SIZES?   

    hate to dig up the past but did you ever find out what size wall thickness he used and possibly what size rod ends. I'm planning to make new struts soon to replace my 3/4" ones that are on there now. I want to use 1" tubing. for the rod ends is it just a bolt welded into the tubing that the rod end screws onto? I'm thinking it may be better to weld a round coupling nut into the tubing then thread a rod end with male thread into it with a lock nut. thoughts??? 
     
    Edit: or would these be better http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/an490.php?clickkey=4183  AN490HT11P seems you would have to weld it into a 3/4" .035 tubing or perhaps 7/8" .095  then weld that into the actual 1" strut tubing. or am I over thinking this??? 
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  14. cliff added a post in a topic Cliff's plane pictures   

    Thanks everyone.  As soon as I learn how to post pictures I will start a progress thread. So far we have gutted the hangar in preparation for insulation , wall and ceiling finishing.  Penndot aviation dept came out and surveyed the runway. we need to cut some trees to keep the runway at it's current published length of 2200'.  It is about 3000' long but the trees create the need for displaced thresholds at each end.  Luckily My new neighbor is willing to allow me to trim his trees and several of the intruding trees are on my property. 
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  15. Av8r3400 added a post in a topic Classic IV Restoration   

    No.  I'm going to try with a "naked" radiator under the plane in a near oem location.  (Same front to rear location, but centered side to side.)  I have - as with most of my other modifications - added threaded tabs to the airframe to mount the radiator instead of the herky-jerk long screws through the floorboards, OEM mount style.
     
    If I have cooling issues, I will make my own scoop from aluminum.  I have the fiberglass scoop on my yellow plane and absolutely hate it.  It attaches under the floor of the plane and is near impossible to R/R it.  Therefore I have never taken it off.  I have also, therefore, never done a full flush of the coolant.
     
    My project plane will have a plug put in the radiator to facilitate draining the coolant.  If a scoop is needed, I will make it so that the radiator is still serviceable.
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  16. EDMO added a post in a topic Classic IV Restoration   

    Larry,
          Are you going to use the rad scoop that Kitfox makes?
    EDMO
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  17. Av8r3400 added a post in a topic Classic IV Restoration   

    It's been nearly a month since the last post on my Mangy Fox rebuild.  
     
    I am still working on the plane, just nothing real sexy to show, I've been doing the radiator plumbing, fuel plumbing and, of course, waiting on parts...
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  18. 959 added a post in a topic NEXT QUESTION - WHAT'S A 670?   

    I remember when I first put the 604 ci engine into my Duster I ran into one problem after another.

    It is just solving problems that are there because of going a different route than is the easy one and not giving up.

    It's just about not giving up.
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  19. 959 added a post in a topic NEXT QUESTION - WHAT'S A 670?   

    Once we got the cooling problem solved we have not run into anymore issue's.

    Next I'm going to put the RK-400 clutch on the 670.
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  20. akflyer added a post in a topic DC6 Fun   

    Fixed it for ya Randy
     

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  21. EDMO added a post in a topic DC6 Fun   

    I thought that looked like a DC-6, but wasn't sure what a DC-4 Looked Like - think maybe they are only 2 engines?
    EDMO
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  22. sioux201 added a post in a topic Vertical Stab Tubing Model III KF   

    .035
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  23. SuberAvid added a post in a topic DC6 Fun   

    Jack pointed out that it is a DC6.  Sorry I got that wrong.  They are all great planes!
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  24. SuberAvid added a post in a topic Foam air filter   

    Glad you made it back safely.  I would definately change to a K&N type if you can find one that will fit.  A few years ago I sucked one of those cheap filters through the turbo on my Ford; it became a real expensive filter.  I went to a K&N in it after that.
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  25. SuberAvid added a post in a topic FAA considering ALLOWING 2nd PILOT for PHASE 1 TESTS   

    Jack and I were looking at this and the second pilot has to be a pilot that has considerable time in the same type and model to get enough points to qualify.  We kind of dismissed it since Jack does not have nearly enough time in an Avid or Avid+, but the primary pilot is not under these restrictions; the builder can decide to fly his own plane if he wants to as long as he has a pilot's license (SEL) in this case.  It is the second pilot who has to meet the qualifications. 
     
    Jack, We might have to relook at this and decide which of us should be considered as the second pilot....
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