Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0

STRUT FAIRINGS

24 posts in this topic

Posted (edited)

Joey was talking about using some Lexan to make strut fairings - I was wondering if anyone had ever tried using thin PVC sheet to do the same thing, and gluing it with minimal rivets?

I have 2 sets of J3 struts that could be used to mold fiberglass fairings, but after about 30 years of working with fiberglass, I don't know if I could force myself to do that again - and the cost of materials has gone up a lot.

EDMO

Edited by Ed In Missouri

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Posted

With the PVC...how would you propose to join on the back side? Adhesive w/rivets or just adhesive?

Or...am I not understanding?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Posted

I figured a couple of rivets on each end - the rest is adhesive.

EDMO

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Posted (edited)

I checked my Grainger catalog, and a 4' x 8' sheet of 1/16" thick PVC is just about $60 - that should do fairings for 2 planes, figuring about 6" for each strut.

I was hoping to find 1/32 thickness....maybe keep looking?

EDMO

Edited by Ed In Missouri

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Posted

Hi Ed,

 

I've used some PVC based plastics in the past in our business, and I would be reluctant to do it again. PVC works well for plumbing fittings (probably because the parts are thick enough to be durable and not flex), but PVC is fairly brittle and thin sheets seem to break down with use (cracks). I also don't think it stands up to UV very well. You could paint it to protect it, but I'm not sure how well paint will stay on it.

 

What about using .016" 2024 T3 Aluminum sheet? Some people might think it's too thin to be usable, but I've used it (.016" thickness) extensively on various items. It's surprisingly durable. Aluminum is just slightly less than twice the density of most PVC plastic (I had to look that up), so .016" would be slightly less weight than 1/32" PVC. A 4' x 8' sheet is about $72 at ACS, and they can roll it up for UPS. You can even get a 4' x 12' piece if needed for a little more. Just a thought.

 

Good luck with your fairings.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Posted

Thanks for the info Luke - I was looking for something you could glue instead of lots of rivets - maybe I will have to use my J3 struts to make fiberglass fairings - I really would prefer to sell them to someone who wants to start a business - I have enough to do just to get my bird built.

EdMO

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Posted

Yeah, fiberglass might be your best bet then if you are trying to avoid rivets.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Posted

Most automotive steel body panels are glued to the support structures.

All of the new F150 trucks have aluminum skins which are also glued.

Food for thought.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Posted (edited)

We never glued anything except the leather tops on the Dodge, Plymouth and Chrysler cars - every steel part was welded.  But I retired 24 years ago - Maybe things have changed?

Wonder what glue would hold and last with aluminum?

EDMO

Edited by Ed In Missouri

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Posted

Streamline farings

Denis, aero light 103,

I designed a jig for him to split his farings, now you can put them on anything

Search Avid ,Mong , murphy renegade, lazair seaplanes to see what can be done with these farings!

Another advantage, if you install right, can be removed to inspect for cousions !!!

,

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Posted

Hysol is a structural adhesive that glues your wood ribs to aluminum spars...

1 person likes this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Posted (edited)

Sioux,

   

     I see it now at UFlyit - but it don't say cost of cutting lengthwise.

How do these go together and come apart when you split them to install?

EDMO

Edited by Ed In Missouri

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Posted

$. .?

The jig cuts the trailing edge length wise

Better to talk on landline

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Posted

I don't talk on landlines - If it is that big of a secret that it cant be posted and shared on here, then just forget me.

EDMO

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Posted

how bout forget the rivets and use double stick tape.  All those big sky scrapers with solid glass windows you see in big city's.  3M double sided tape is what holds all those panels of glass in. Its a thought.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Posted

I replaced 2 or 3 tiles on my kitchen wall over the sink - Didn't have the regular glue stuff they use - Had a tube of GE Silicone II, and used some of it - they have been on the wall for about 10 years now.  Kitfox glues the gas tanks to the spars with it.

EDMO

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Posted (edited)

how bout forget the rivets and use double stick tape.  All those big sky scrapers with solid glass windows you see in big city's.  3M double sided tape is what holds all those panels of glass in. Its a thought.

I used some 3M automotive trim tape on my 98 Chev P/U last summer to secure some trim on the bed side. 

Thorough cleaning and prep on body and trim. Proper outdoor temp. The trim began releasing within a week. I was NOT impressed.

 

Lou

Edited by KFfan

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Posted

It was easier to explane on the phone!!!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Posted

Your forgotten!!!!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Posted

I hadn't thought of double sided tape. We use 3M VHB tape for aluminum to aluminum bonds. Once they are properly bonded, you will not separate them (unless you bring a chisel). We use the type with a thin layer of foam. They have some that is good to 300 degrees, and actually strengthens with heat and age. Here is a good place to get it:

 

http://www.uline.com/Grp_240/3M-VHB-Tapes

 

The surfaces need to be flat though with adequate surface area. For a trailing edge, I would put a slight bend in the sheet near the trailing edge like Avid did on the flaperons. That way the surfaces would be parallel to each other where they bond.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Posted

We never glued anything except the leather tops on the Dodge, Plymouth and Chrysler cars - every steel part was welded.  But I retired 24 years ago - Maybe things have changed?

Wonder what glue would hold and last with aluminum?

EDMO

Ask Aloha Airlines and Boeing...

260px-Aloha_Airlines_Flight_243_fuselage

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Posted

I remember that!

EDMO

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Posted

That was an antique 737 suffering from too many pressurization cycles causing work hardened aluminum...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Posted (edited)

Guess I don't have to pressurize my strut fairings - Our highest "Mountain" is 1700 msl with a "cement pond" reservoir on top of it.

EdMO

Edited by Ed In Missouri

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!


Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.


Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0