NorthIdahoAvidflyer

Sale pending

I have a B gearbox for sale on FB. I had some guy get a hold of me trying to get me to send it to him because he was needing it as soon as possible. I told him I would mail it to him as soon as whatever funds he sent hit the bank. He acted really put out that I would make him wait. He sent me a picture of a roll of money and said he didn't need my money and that he was a handshake kind of guy. I told him I was not going to send anything of mine without getting paid for it. He was put out that I didn't trust him....which I didn't. He agreed to mail me out a cashiers check the next day. Two weeks later I sent him a message saying I had not seen his funds, He made a bunch of excuses and said that he had just went and got the cashiers check the day before to make me happy......????. I told him I was moving to the next guy that wanted it.......fucking loser!!!

Yeah I'm out. 

I read through the installation directions and they do not say anything about re-jetting the carbs. I do like the vent system being tied into the manifold as one unit. Seems very clean and eliminates the need to pull air from the air cleaner. I built my system and still have not ran it yet but should in the near future. 

Thank you. Someone else mentioned that Stace had you weld the mounts on. I like that idea. 

I assume the cabane ends fit the inside of the brackets tightly. I also wonder what the intent of the flat face portion of the bracket is for (rigidity?) and if it faces outward or inward when installed. Are the brackets 2' inside. 

Thank you Willja67. Is there a chance of getting a close up of those end brackets and how they fit together?

My Zenith mount was just the bed mount. Boy those ring mounts have raised in price a lot in the last few years. When I was looking for a ring mount you could find them new for $625. I have a brand new ring mount. I got it from a guy who was rebuilding a plane after he wrecked it. The insurance company bought it for him and he didn't need it. We will just says I stole it. . The crappy thing about that Rotax ring mount is that it's only the part that hooks to the 912. You still have to fab or buy the FWF mount. .

 The 912 mount is a lot a lot different mount. It is two piece and includes a dynafocal ring which is much harder to fabricate and includes additional rubber dampeners and hardware. I paid $550 for my Zenith mount from the Factory.
In all fairness mounts are time consuming. People will pay the price because its easier than fabricating one. I have built three mounts and know the material cost so it would be worth it to me to build my own. I guess each of us have to weigh the cost against available equipment and skill set. 

 

Let me double check but I'm sure this is the same brand I used recently to replace my polycarbonate. I would not recommend it. I'm careful with how I clean it and it already shows a lot of surface scratches. I will let you know for sure. 

I have to admit I'm jealous!!  Any Idea what he is going to charge for a mount?? As you and I both know making a mount is very time consuming. 

I guess I'm lucky to have one of the best metal stores around right here. We also have an aluminum foundry (Kaiser) here in town also. I can get that material in 20 foot lengths for way cheaper than any place I'd previously priced. The problem for everyone else is shipping it. 

Amazing!!! fine job Fred!!

I'm with Bandit. Crow hopping is a good way to tear up a perfectly good airplane that you know very little about. I use to be on the crow hop band wagon until I personally watched three people bend up new planes trying to play in that area between flight and no flight. Now if you have some time in the plane and want to do some power failure practice in this arena then I feel you are at more of an advantage because you understanding of the aircraft's flight envelope. But to each their own......
I recently went through this with my Avid this last summer. The FAA site has a great publication on first flights in an experimental aircraft. Whoever wrote it even installed some humor. It is well worth a read. I did not follow every suggestion in the article but I did take some very good things out of it.
I did three days of ground handling practice around the airport. I started slow and increased the speed. This was one of the better things I did before flying it.
Spend some time doing a very detailed pre-flight with your condition inspection checklist the evening before your first fight. Do this alone without any distractions. I found that I had not secured the back of my seat. If you have someone else you trust have them double check the airplane.
I made a first flight checklist. This was basically a detail list of the actions I wanted to complete and at what stage I was going to complete them. The list took me through every aspect of the flight from pre-flight to post-flight. It helped with getting my brain ready for the overload that was about to happen. I had a knee board to keep notes on. 
Watch your EGT temps during all phases of flight. It's really important. Remember that temps are automatically going to climb on decents. Reduce your RPM to keep them under 1150. I assume you are running a Rotax 582. 
Carry a fire extinguisher and make a mental plan on what actions you will take in the event you have a smoking wire or in-flight fire. 
I had a wingman who flew with me. Most people wont have that option. It's good to have someone on the ground with a radio, cell phone and a fire extinguisher. They can also help feed information to you off of the first flight checklist and recording data for you.
I stayed in the pattern for three circuits (I did not land) then flew out to an open area where I could fly for awhile to get a feel the plane and watch instruments. After about an hour I started testing roll rate,speed ranges, rpm ranges, climb rates, power off and on stalls and slow flight. I did find issues with my aileron adjustment. 
For landing I followed my checklist on the pattern and altitudes I was going to maintain. I set up good long stable approaches to give myself time to manage the landing phase. I did use flaps the fist landing. Some say not to but I had a 11 hours in an Avid already and was comfortable using them. I made three landing to a full stop and called it a day.
After I got back to the hangar I pulled the cowlings and did a good look over the entire plane. 
Don't try and do to much the first day. All this was more than enough. I was wrecked when I got done.  Its more stress than you realize. A had a beer when I got home and passed out in my chair.
Good luck and if you have any other question feel free to shoot me a message or phone call. 
 

We have had this discussion on here and the general consensus is you want to be toed in not out if anything. You have larger tires on narrow gear. There is only so much you are going to do with that. They are prone to be squirrely hence why they get groundlooped so often and why so many people upgrade to wider landing gear. 

I have never hear of such documentation. The original factory is no longer in business and the company has changed owners several times. The best you will do for documentation is finding someone with a kit parts list issued by the factory and delivered with a kit. 
I wish you luck 

It is a wood prop with LE protection. People love the way it looks. The prop recommendation is based on a few factors, My 582 grey head had a B box at 2.58:1. This GSC would work from 64 to 70 inches. The Warp would not work as a 70" on the B gearbox so I changes to a C gearbox to run the 70" Warp slower. According to Warp Drive the C box will handle twice the inertia as the B. 
It's a stupid story...... I got a one in a lifetime deal on a very nice 70" three blade Warp. When I found out my gearbox would not run it without causing issues later on I changed gearboxes. The good deal on the prop ended up costing me a gearbox. Oh well..... I wanted a C box anyways

 
The water coming out of the engine (Thermostat side) should be where you pull the fluid going into heat exchanger. The water will be the warmest at them point. If you pull fluid from the water pump side you will have cooler liquid going into the heat exchanger because its already been cooled some through the radiators. I had a guy tell me that he could cool his engine temps on warm days by turning on his fan inside the cockpit. I use to do this in an old truck I had. You didn't want to be inside the cab but the engine was happy.
 

Thank you. I assume the water coming into the heater is coming from the outlet side (thermostat side of the engine) and the water going back into the engine is going back in the water pump side??

I have an email quote from them if anyone wants it. To rich for my blood when I was recovering my doors.  I’ve seen them and they are no bought top notch. Larry’s right.... I know a guy who tried making a set and it was a complete disaster. 

Thank you for all the comments. I have helped with fabric before. The issue is gathering all the material. I have a call out to a couple guys who are suppose to know the local guys who are good with covering and have supplies. Between the two active local airports I should be able to find some help.