akflyerbob

If you would, post the contact info for them.
I would really be interested in the fuel tanks.

Bob

Every time I call Kit Fox I set there hoping "Deb" answers the phone
John does have a way of making "you" think you just ask a stupid question.

The pic attached shows what I did.
Its a piece of soft gasket material (black) and a ring of teflon
cutting board on the outside. The screws go thru to the welded gusset plate
already on the fus. The gusset is thin so only two threads to tighten with.
The black gasket material is cut to the angle of the hull.

I don't remember meeting you in my motorhome.
Which freeway was it?

How long are the spar tubes?

Herman...Unless there is something new, you can't ferry to Anchorage.
There are few runs from Seattle or Bellingham to Seward
All others go to Haines, leaving another 800 miles +- to Anchorage.
I've driven many times. Four days sound about right pulling a trailer.
I think I have beaten the ferry every time I drove. It stops alot.
I've never rode it except to Kodiak to deer hunt. In state ferry.
Besides road work, the only bad part of the road is @ 20 miles at
the border on the US side, the entire way is paved.
Regular gas is 462.9 here, more in Canada, @ $.25 less in Anchorage.

Ran into Dave the other day at a retirement lunch
he and I retired from the same company.
All his stuff is for sale, he's going south perminent.

There is a large difference between summer and winter preformance in
my mod 1, 582, but it will beat thoes numbers, even in summer.
When we did the W/B it was 518 lbs. I carry 19 gal gas.
I have bare min vfr stuff

Probably not the turbo

What might be the climb rate on that 780lb 912S powered mod 5

I have both, the stupidly expensive aircraft swagging tool
and the home depo tool.
They make the same swage. It all depends how you hold the tool and start the swage.
In the first pictures you can see the tool was not held straight, making
a visualy ugly swage.

I think I would look at other things.
If you have enough pitch in the prop that you only get 6050 on take off
your cruse should be higher.
I think I would look at the IAS,
what tach and how accurate.
Are you getting full throttle, and ballanced carbs
Are any of these things different than before?

An example..my airspeed will change by 20mph if I open the door
or 10mph if I close the heatmuf vent..changes the air psi
in the cabin

Getting ready to assemble an IFA
where do I find ChrisB's diagram???

OK...Somebody out there knows where a old plastic header tank is

"SO GIVE IT UP"

Ed..I did the same thing in a 800hp Ag Cat when I was @ 15
I searched 600 Snow and got this, interesting

Look at Avid Catlina post on this site and at post #23 page two
you will see a picture of replacing all hinge rib tails
Their are quite a few pictures in that thread to follow the wing rebuild
actually the whole airplane,
not finished,
it got side tracked

How about the control sticks?
Bob

How about some pictures
I'd like to see the electric trim
got any control sticks?

David...I really don't know the answer to your questions
I don't pay attention to speed most of the time because we fly
with more than one plane and we just stay togerther. I have
the rans elev trim so I dont use flaps for trim.
Everything about this mod 1 points to slow, no farings anywhere
big tires, ring cowl, drop tips, but its not.

I have the plastic leading edge on my mod 1 and I'm sure I got it from Kit Fox.
Maybe calling it "cuffs" for undercambered wings may have thrown them off.
I can't say about preformance since I didn't fly it without them
but it does look better

On my mod 1, their is also bottom tabs.
I put a connection tab under the bottom motor mount bolt.
The local snowmachine/motorcycle shop had longer springs
which I needed both for upper and lower connections

Here is a little something I flund on the net

> I'm in agreement about all the other comments about scratching, scoring and
> the
> like. A small defect like a scribed line forms a small stress riser,
> specially in
> thin materials. As the material undergoes load cycles the thin line always
> sees
> higher stress levels and exhibits more rapid work hardening. When the life
> cycle
> of the part gets near its end, this area will be the first to go.
>
> Here's a little concept to chew on about the pencil line on aluminum.
>
> As you said in a previous post pencil lead is usually made from a graphite
> clay
> composition.
> I think that refined clay is a relatively inert akaline material and shouldn't
> participate in deterioration, other than it does readily retain moisture.
>
> So, I looked again at the galvanic series.
> The American Boat and Yacht Council (ABYC) series lists graphite as the most
> passive (cathodic) material. Aluminum alloys are 4th from the most active
> (anodic).
> The series from the Corrosion Engineering Handbook at work lists graphite in
> 3rd
> place next to gold and platinum as the most passive, and aluminum alloys in
> 5th
> place as the most active.
>
> So, when we put the pencil line on the aluminum we have put two of the most
> incompatible materials in the series together!
>
> If we accept that putting these two materials together constitutes a galvanic
> cell, we can also imagine that the subsequent galvanic corrosion will result
> in a
> small fault line, just like the scribe mark and lead to the same accelerated
> failure.
>
> Putting some paint over the thing doesn't do a heck of a lot to slow it down.
> Water migrates thru most paints. This doesn't cause many problems when the
> parts
> are left in open air to breathe. Wrap them up and let them sit for long
> periods
> of time and the paint will blister.
> We just had that happen to a dozen spars shipped to England last August. They
> got
> wet along the way and sat till November. All of them had blisters due to
> moisture
> trapped in the coatings. This was really expensive high grade polyurethane
> paint,
> similar to that used on aircraft.