EDMO

Heavy. (needs Redrive)

No FWF support.

Poor performance.

Poor reliability at best.

What about the Hirth engines? I am also getting some free education, since I have not studied any of these alternate engines.

RAM listed a 115 hp Soob as 120 lbs dry in the KP or SP mag - but that dont jive with any Soob that I know of. Got to weigh mine someday, but bet it is 180 or more.

Ed in MO

Ed they do make an 80hp model but it gets the HP from a turbo. Very complicated and very expensive set up.

OK - I'm hip to that "more expensive" - Looked it up - about $7000 more. I hate turbos too - just more to go wrong, and very costly.

U know anything about the VW's?

Ed in MO

How about a direct-drive VW? I think that it is cheap, long lasting, reliable, 4 stroke, and about 120 lbs, similiar to the HKS weight? Several HP versions available. PRSU would add 40 lbs tho - so that would make it nearly as heavy as a EA81, but you should not need a PRSU???

Ed in MO

I was planning on using the Rotax 582 but the HKS has me second guessing that decision. Anyone here have experience with the engine first hand or just an opinion?

To me it looks like the 582 and the HKS are about the same HP at a cruise power setting but the HKS uses half the gas, no 2 cycle oil, has a 1000 hr TBO with reasonably priced parts and you dont need a bunch of special tools to take the engine apart like the rotax.

I thought that HKS also made an 80 hp? Don't know much about any of these, except that I don't like expensive, high-maintenance engines like Rotax.

I have to put new plugs in my EA81 about every 1000 hours, for less than $10........But, I know it is heavy for some planes.

Ed in MO

So i think I'm going to go with the Stewart system so I'm going to pick up some epoxy paint tomorrow and hopefully get the airframe painted soon so i can make room for the wings. Any epoxy paint should work right? or is there something that i should be looking for specifically. or to stay away from. Thanks for the input

-Robert-

Just make sure that the color contrasts with what is on there if possible. You will constantly find little sections you have missed until you get a complete coat.

We just went to an auto paint store fou ours. The fuselage was sandblasted, and the epoxy primer was gray, so we went back and had them tint it pink, then we covered it with epoxy white.

My friend who owns a paint shop says he uses a self-etching primer instead of epoxy, and then uses epoxy for a finish coat. He says this primer "grabs" the metal, expecially aluminum, better.

Not a gold miner Ed I didn't buy the MK IV rads, when I found out the price from Brett. I got my belly mount radiator from JackAK for alot less than 500, but that is what I saw them going for other places. Never thought about an AC rad! What are the dimensions on the Rabbit rad?

Stratus, and I think RFI, used the Chevy AC (condensers? / Evaporators??) (not the one up front by the regular radiator) for the EA81 mounted up front. Used ones are cheap. Several models available - would have to check my books to see which is best. NOT FORD, they are different.

My rad fin area is 5 1/2 x 26 x 1 1/2, and overall counting the metal caps and surrounding metal, is 8 x 30 x 2.

I have not verified that it is actually a VW Rabbit rad. You could check with VW or a junk yard to see what it is.

I was told by the seller that he had it on a Pelican and made a tunnel from the front of the cowl underneith his EA81 to a few inches back of the rad, and that in summer temps in the midwest it held 190 degrees to 195 degrees which is right with the thermostat. It is hung from the firewall by 2 straps at a 45 degree angle.

Hope this helps someone.

Ed in MO

The KF5 has the .065 spar, and 18 inches between ribs. 1400 or 1550 GW. The Magnum uses 12 inches and .083 for 1700 GW.

One inch struts should be minimal for your 1050, better yet, 1 1/4, IMO.

I don't know what Avid did, but Kitfox increased the size of the crossover tubes as GW went up.

Mine are 1 1/8 x .049 wall.

Ed in MO

http://www.westav.ca...MSDS%202010.pdf

http://www.westav.ca/pdf/EkoStrip%20MSDS%20Nov%202010.pdf

http://www.westav.ca/pdf/EkoClean%20MSDS%2010,07,2010.pdf

http://www.westav.ca/pdf/EkoBond%20MSDS%202010.pdf

http://www.westav.ca/stewartsys.php < Click this link to see the drop down menu for all the MSDS on the stewart products

What? You mean a manufacture would um, take the liberty of bullshitting us a little bit in order to sell thier product?? I am not going to link all the MSDS for all of thier products, but it is safe to say that the claims that there are NO TOXIC chemicals in the stewarts system products is complete and total bullshit.

Just because it does not smell bad, does not mean it is not harmful.. I am in NO WAY saying that it is as bad as polyfiber, or some of the other systems, just saying that it is not 100% safe as they would like you to believe.

If you watch the videos, they use skin protection, and also lung and eye protection on the finish coats. Still not as bad as nitrate/buterate, MEK.

ALSO, NON-FLAMABLE, because it is waterborne.

Ed in MO

I talked to Brett and he does not have the MK IV radiator set up just sitting on the shelf. If I remember right, to have them made it was around $1400. You can go to the belly mount for less than $500.

$1400, $500??? OMG! I forget how rich you goldminers are in Alaska.

Down here, with the po-folks, my $50 Rabbit rad will do an excellent job, or the Chevy A/C rads at $10 each from the junk yards.

Nice to compare prices, and find out where the bargains are.

Ed in MO

I am 70 - Abused Lungs many times - Lucky to still be breathing - Had Cancer twice - Only one kidney now.

Wouldn't breath MEK, Acetone, or any of the Poly systems fumes now for any amount of money! Doctor also told me to sell my welder, or die early!

I just used the Stewart system for the first time, and will use it again.

Use epoxy if you are not afraid of it, but better to use the primer / paint that Stewart sells - it is nontoxic.

We sprayed the metal parts with it on the J3, and I tried to scratch a practice piece and it was hard as nails.

Repairs are so simple you won't believe it.

Get their 6 disk DVD (I got it free when I told them I would use their products).

They are easy to get in touch with, and great to answer my questions.

Recommend it highly over any of the Old "BAD" Stuff.

CORRECTION: Now 3 times Cancer - Just had skin cancers removed from face!

Ed in MO

Murle Williams Aviation Has belly mount radiators in their online catalog. They may be able to make cheek mount if you talk to them. The one I got for my Stratus was sized to my spec.s They have a web site, google should get you there.

Jackak

\

How about posting your specs on the rad? Photos? Price? Performance?

Wondering what size 2 front mounts would take the place of my Rabbit rad.

Thanks,

Ed in MO - Reductions Sooby 81

BRAVO! Stay down here with the po-folks who just love to build and fly. Leave the $nobs to their $potless $plendid e$pensive toy$.

Ed in MO

There was a big article recently about the modified Supercub with slats, bigger ailerons, flaps, etc.

It was either in EAA mag or Kitplanes, the only two I read.

He also extended his landing gear a lot, and changed the engine angle.

Forget what his name was, but could look it up. In Alaska, (Land of Great Field Approvals), I think.

Unfortunately, here in MO, Field approvals are reserved for Kings and Presidents!!! Poopy attitudes here!

Ed in MO

I got the blades and they are fine.

Attached is a photo of the airplane that I built that they are going on.

Thanks,

Joe Boyle

Cute little One-seater. Congrats. Just keep it out of the trees. Maybe invest in an Anchor? ;<)

I saw one similiar at Seward, Alaska, but don't know what it was. Thought it was a "Pup"

Ed in MO

Brett,

Hope you read this; this is the next thing to add to your Aidale offering. After listening to the QS2 guys talk and watching their videos, I really think you should look into making these for the Avid/ KF. Build mounting tabs that can be epoxied and riveted to the leading edge spar and fabricate the leading edge slat or slot after the QS2 or Dakota Cub wing but scaled for the Avid/ KF. I seems like these would be pretty similar to the fabrication of the flaperons. The QS2 has slats that open or close automatically depending on the angle of attack and the air flow through the slat opening by pivoting on the bolts that attach them to the tabs. They said these were patterned after the Helio Currier. They also use VG's on the wing just behind the slat opening. I sure would like to see how these would work on the Avid.

If you havent kept up with the Zenith 701/801/Savannah, The tests between slats and VGs showed that the VGs performed as well, and maybe a little more cruise speed.

Ed in MO

My manual states to sand away any coatings on the wing spar doublers before attaching with Hysol adhesive. Question is that the aluminum is going to begin a corrosion process or is the epoxy going to have enough film tension to create a barrier when riveted ? Just wondering about this.

Use lots of Hysol - Some builders plug one end and slosh paint on inside of spars, after riveting. Micro balloons added to Hysol makes a thicker coating.

As long as there is no moisture, and Hysol seperation in the connection, there should be no corrosion

- never heard of anyone complaining about corrosion in spars.

Ed in MO

The site you quoted wont let me on it. There were two types of KF header tanks - one round (old type), and one flat (new type). I think that Kitfox still sells both. I like the flat one better, so am using it. (about $160) ouch!

BTW: I was member of 42 until I moved back to Mizery and joined 32. Tim R. used to send me 42 newsletters, but now they are on puter, so he just sends me a Christmas card.

Ed in MO

Along those lines, where can you get the bid headed pop rivets that hold the windshield lexan in place? The regular Avex rivets have a small head, same with store bought aluminum pop rivets.

If you can't get the big heads from Spruce, then try MSC, or Grainger. I have been buying them from Grainger because it is local. I prefer #8 screws in Lexan, with rubber washers, so you can keep the stress off of the Lexan.

Note:

The Avid Magnum specs add an extra row of stainless rivets in between the rows on the strut attach fittings.

I have never heard of a failure of the stainless for KF or Avid, but the people at either company would know more about that.

Ed in MO

I am curios to know if anybody has looked at the plans for this avid clone. If so which avid does it clone. My guess would be the "A" or "B" model. I am curios if the subaru engine could be used in this ...?

BillE

It just so happens that I am the owner of a partially welded, partially tacked, 98% complete fuselage which was supposed to have been made from the Raven prints. It looks to me like the Kitfox One, but would have to match up the doors to see if it a one or two.

I have about 90% of the parts, tailfeathers, controls, interior, doors, landing gear (no wheels), tailwheel, , gas tank, cowling, etc, and it is for sale cheap at $3K for everything I can supply with it. You can't buy the material and parts for that price. I also have fixtures for building wing ribs, but no wings - and one flaperon that needs riveting at one end. You can also take along the tail end (cabin back) of my KF1 with the larger modified tail.

You need to move the battery back nearly to the tail for balance with the EA81.

I am 70 and in process of building another version of my own design. I will never get to building another one.

I wish someone could come and pick it up, as the thought of building a box, packing parts, and high priced freight just don't get me too excited. I am located 25 miles south of St. Louis, just off of I-55.

PS. I don't have the plans and never saw them. I just bought it and took the man's word for what it was.

I had a wrecked KF One before buying this one, and it had a subaru in it. My builder is getting a soob EA81 also.

Ed in MO I also have the KF1 Builders manual which I will include.

Thank you for all the suggestions. I have heard the two pieces of aluminum on either side. I have done tons of metal fabrication so I think this I will beef all of them up.

This plane was actuall #6 from Avid in 1983 and was used a oshgosh for a demo to see the plane. It had tricycyle gear and tail dragger so I am trying to put it back in original configuration in a tricycle gear format with the original 2si motor.

Whenever you can, I would sure like to see some photos of the nose gear and attach points.

I am cooking my own, but anything might help.

Ed in MO

Ed..I did the same thing in a 800hp Ag Cat when I was @ 15

I searched 600 Snow and got this, interesting

WOW - SOME ENGINE!!!

Memory fading, but don't think that was the engine we had in our Snow cropduster. Fascinating video! Never know what you might find in a puter.

Believe the Snow was later pulled by a 1000 hp radial, but could be wrong on that.

BTW: I don't remember seeing any Ag Cats when I lived in Alaska - there must be more to this story, or at least a place and time. I almost went to the Minden, Nevada school for cropdusting when I was young, but toolmaker/machinist paid better than flying. I have a cousin, age 75, still flying a Pawnee in SE MO Cotton.

Thanks for the fun. Ed in MO

How about some pictures

I'd like to see the electric trim

got any control sticks?

Added photos of actuators.

have not checked on sticks yet.

Ed in MO

What are you building? Never have seen ribs that look like that.

"CLUTTER"? You don't stand a chance at the Clutter Awards! You should see mine!

Congrats on Progress.

Ed in MO

My flying buddy of the last 50 years called me today. He had just watched the movie, "REDTAILS" with his co-pilot spouse, and LOVED IT!

I have studied the history on them, and they were true HEROS in WW2.

I hope all of you get to see it.

Bytheway, We may have had one of them, or the equivilant, flying cropdusting for us in the late 40's or early 50's in Louisiana and Arkansas.

He was a super pilot who would scare the hell out of me in the front seat of a Stearman, or a kid sitting on his lap in a 600 hp Snow, but he always brought us back safely.

I soloed his Stearman one day when I was 10 years old. I got a foot off of the ground when I was supposed to Taxi the plane. Got my ass chewed out and immediately grounded! Ah, those were the days.

Ed in MO

Most of the ones I have seen with the 2 cycle have had the round cowl. Some mounted the rad below the firewall, hanging it out in the wind, and others mounted it flush with the bottom of the firewall, at an angle and slightly forward. The bottom of the cowl was cut out to match the rad.

Both seemed to work fine.

Ed in MO