High Country

I knew about the shielded wire for strobes I haven't decided where I want to put strobes I'm thinking just one on just behind the turtle deck or on the top rear of the skylight (that is how my skyraider was and I liked it) . I was thinking a small gauge automotive wire should work fine for in the wings for the nav lights..?. I'm definitely going to replace the bulbs with LED's as you have suggested also I did order the wingtip standoffs from kitfox that you mentioned as well. Thanks

Robert

Edit: here is a pic of my old skyraider notice the strobe on top of the skylight.

I'm going to add lights to my project and was just curious what type/ gauge of wire everyone was using. Also for the engine install as well, the wire that came with my kit (in 1986) is the four strand trailer wiring.

Progress report- I got the windshield, skylight, turtle deck and landing gear fitted up to the airframe, I plan to eventually replace the turtle deck with smoke gray lexan and the skylight as well once I get a bit more spending money. Also want to put on the Airdale bush gear at some point

The local aircraft recovery company here is located in the same hanger as my flight club in Boise so I took the liberty of going to see the remains of this aircraft, the wreckage was much worse than it looked in the video its nothing short of a miracle that they all survived. It seems we have had several accidents here in Idaho this summer much more than usual and I think all of them can be directly related to density altitude and were completely avoidable had the pilot just taken the time to figure it and make that all important go-NO-GO decision. Not meaning to point fingers but this is a very good point that we all need to keep in mind before we depart.

Thanks for the photos Ed, I was going to make them but for 12 bucks I think I will just give KF a call

I'm not finished with my avid yet but my sky raider i could have it unloaded wings folded out and ready for pre-flight in less than 10 min. I plan to trailer my avid as well. Here is a link to a kitfox folding up it should be pretty close

p.s. If you cant get the fiberglass mounts from Avid, I have a set I bought from Kitfox, think about $12? Want to keep them, but can go try them on the Avid tips I have for sale which already have the mounts on them.

ED in MO

Ed that would be great if you can see if they fit the avid tips and even take a couple pics if you can.

Thanks Robert

In case anyone was wondering here is a bit more info on different color lexan

the info can be found here- http://www.eplastics.com/Plastic/Plexiglass_Acrylic_Sheet_Bronze_Grey_Smoked_Gray_Colored

PLEXIGLAS® SOLAR TINT SERIES

Solar Energy and Visible Light Transmittance

Color_______Solar Energy___Visible Light

Colorless_____85%__________92%

Gray 2064____36%__________27%

Gray 2074____24%__________12%

Bronze 2404__56%__________49%

Bronze 2412__35%__________27%

Bronze 2370__20%__________10%

Thickness tolerances are plus/minus 10% on acrylic sheet. Thickness can vary throughout the sheet. Normally we see plus/minus 5% or less differences. Use this list as a guide converting fractions to what is actually produced industry-wide.

1/8" = .118" = 3mm

3/16" = .177" = 4.5mm

1/4" = .236" = 6mm

3/8" = .354" = 9mm

1/2" = .472" = 12mm

3/4" = .708" = 18mm

1" = .944" = 24mm

Answering this before looking at your photos - dont know what tubes you are referring to, but not a good idea to leave off something the designer felt was needed, imo,.

PRIMING the spars may not be good, depending on the glue and system you are going to use. The weight is neglible.

If you are using Stewarts, I would leave the spars bare - their glue will bond better. Others glues will eat up primer, and will only be safe on epoxy.

I used KILZ on ribs, and spray polyurethene 2 coats - masked any area where glue or fabric will attach to wood. If you finish your rib capstrips, be sure to sand them before gluing.

Congrats on progress.

Ed in MO

I will be using the Stewarts system, I was thinking of masking off the front of the spars and the trailing edge where the glue will be just like I did the rib cap strips, then at least I can put primer on everything else to add just a bit of corrosion protection and the other areas will be covered with glue when I cover anyway so I figure that should protect it good enough.

Thanks Ed, I have actually looked for used lights but never thought of getting some cheap ones and replacing the bulbs with LED's to make them work for me. I will have to look into this. I don't have any mounts on my wing tips yet but I don't think it would take too much to add them just need to know which lights to go with. Do you happen to know where it says in the FAR's that I can add them later?

if I don't install nav lights before my inspection can I still add them later and be approved for night VFR flight or do I have to have everything approved now? I'm wanting to be approved for night flight but would like to save the money now and just get into the air so I was hoping I could just run the wiring and install inspection rings so I could do the actual install at a later date. If and when I do purchase them does anyone know of a good unit that won't break the bank but will still work with our low output engines thanks

-Robert-

wow so many reply's so fast I love this place!!

I'm still leaning towards using one coat of sealer and two coats of polyurethane I plan to keep it inside an enclosed trailer out of the weather when not in use and I live in a pretty dry climate so this should serve me well I believe. Rivets and glue it is on the trailing edge and also the tube reinforcements guess all I need now is more time and parts.

Also no I did not put alodine on the spars the color is just the lighting on my porch, I was planing to just spray some primer on them after everything is complete just before fabric. is this a good idea or is there something else that I should use?

Thanks Robert

I installed full Lexon doors which are two pieces and made my skylight and windsheild in two seperate pieces also. Still dealing with cracking problems though.

Bandit could you please post up some pics and info how you transitioned the windshield and sky light together, I'm wanting to use clear for the front and smoke gray on top so I will need to do two piece as well.

also I'm thinking of attaching it all with small machine screws and nylock nuts so I can adjust the amount of pressure it has anyone else done it this way if so what size of screws and how long did you use

Thanks Robert

I have been making some good progress on my wings now that my new wing tanks have arrived, I got them all fitted up to the airframe last weekend and have now come up with a couple more questions, first my wife does not like the scalloped trailing edge that you get using the cable that came with my kit so I've ordered some trailing edge aluminum from ACS it should be here any day now. question do I just glue it on with Hysol or do I need to rivet it. Pictures would be good. I'm using speed wing ribs but building them to HH specs so with the narrow spacing do I still need the aluminum tube inside it to reinforce it or am I ok leaving off the extra weight. Next question my build manual says to cote all exposed wood with 3 coats of polyurethane before covering. is this still the preferred method or should I use a water sealer then polyurethane? Or maybe something all together different?

-Robert-

Looks like I got the picture edit thing figured out.

Here is a pic of the wingtips

I got the wings all fitted up last weekend and have since then gotten both wing tips fitted up as well now Im just waiting for that package of aluminum tube and trailing edge from aircraft spruce that I ordered almost two months ago grrr, Im hoping to be onto fabric soon

Robert

p.s. hopefully i got the picture re-size thing figured out I guess we will see

I have owned my own business before and I will be the first to say that things do come up but its just good business practice to let the customer know when they do so at least we are not lost in the dark. and I in no way am meaning to put down Brett I have spoken with him on several occasions and he is a great guy and I would really like to see his business grow. On the up side I got a call last night from Rod his tank builder and was able to meet up with him in Boise this morning and pick up my nice new tanks. Top notch quality and I really like the flush fill caps no more sticking up above the tank, they also have a sump fitting on the bottom.

I realize he is busy with Oshkosh but he is not the one making the tanks they are made here in Idaho about 1 1/2 hrs from me and I did order them a month ago. I guess I just expect someone to meet their deadlines or else let me know they will not and when they expect to be done.

Yes I know its an old post but things still seem to be a problem. My last order for parts took over 3 months. Now I've been waiting for two wing tanks that were going to be ready for local pickup by July 10th I am stuck and cannot go any further without them. I have left several messages on Brett's business phone and cell. he has yet to return my calls. I hate to complain but I took time off work this week because my wife is out of state and I have lots of time to work uninterruptedly and here I sit without parts. grrr. I know some of you know Brett if you happen to speak with him maybe you could put in a word for me. I would at least like to know what the hold up is and how much longer i should expect to twiddle my thumbs.

sorry for the rant, I will get off my soap box now.

-Robert-

Scotchbrite and a quick alcohol wipe was my method - However, I used Hysol 9430 adhesive, which is what Kitfox switched to - Better check shelf life of your adhesive - 9430 is only good for 2 years shelf.

ED in MO

Thanks for the reply Ed, I have already wiped them down with the red scotchbrite pads about 1" wide. My Hysol is new just got it from Kitfox. So it sounds like I will probably be good to just wipe them down with alcohol and acetone. If anyone else thinks otherwise please let me know why and what else I should do.

-Robert-

So my first wing is all set up and ready for gluing together, just waiting for my wing tanks to get done which should be tomorrow, and I will test fit them to make sure all is good. If so I just need to final clean the spars and glue. I was just thinking of cleaning everything real good with denatured alcohol then wiping it all down again with acetone, will this be enough or should I do something different. I want to make sure I have the best bond that I can get. My build manual just refers to using the "de-greaser" provided with the kit but even if I did have it, it would be over 25 years old.

-Robert-

Robert- is that Kydex sheeting in your cargo area?

Negative- the front portion from my "tailgate" forward has thin plywood and is covered up by thin plastic sheeting i found at Home Depot use for lining shower walls. it was pretty light flexible and water proof. I will have about 16 small D rings riveted to the front portion for tying down my gear. I tried to make the pics smaller but seem to still be having problems doing so.

Still making progress.

Did you every start a post and later while looking around the boards go OH hey forgot about that.

After doing some research and talking with Brett I will easily get 1050 gross after several changes including new wings but It will be well worth it in the end.

I heard back from the eBay seller it's one bearing and one race in the box. Wonder how much fun it's gonna be to get the old races out.

I've replaced LOT's more races than I care to count from when I owned my mechanic business. try tapping on them with a punch if they don't come heat up the race real hot with a torch keeping the flame just on the race. once its real hot it may just fall out if not it shouldn't take much tapping to get it out.