1avidflyer

I've still got a lot of parts to it.  JImChuk

TJay Larson has a youtube video where he shows making new kitfox hangars I believe.  He converted his Kitfox 1 to Kitfox 4 style wings.  

the two piece one is the original type.  Kitfox changed to a steel one that is just on the top.  

I snapped this picture today of my Kitfox 4 flaperon hanger.  Maybe that will give you the info you are looking for.  I believe that Avid flaperon is a good bit lower.  JImChuk

The type 54 carb in the top of the Bing carb page has two cables coming into the top of the slide it looks like.  That of course is not the carb used on the 582.  Lot of the other parts shown are interchangeable though.  And actually the 912 type 64 and the 582 type 54 carbs use the same floats.  

That is very heavy.  Would almost wonder about your scales.  Rotax says one should wipe the floats off, and let them air dry for a couple of minutes before you weigh them.  Bing says it sells only for motorcycles on their website, but I've bought from them and used these floats in my 912.  I've always been tempted to try the white single piece floats they show, my type 94 on my Jabiur engine had that float from Jabiru, and it worked fine for 20 years.  At least it looked to be the same looking at the pictures.  Like I said, I've been tempted to try, but haven't.  JImChuk

PS,  Leading edge airfoils, and Lockwood aviation sell them as well for more money I believe.  

Bing Carburetor Home - BING AGENCY INTERNATIONALSOLE DISTRIBUTORFOR BING CARBURETORS AND THROTTLE BODIES IN THE US, CANADA,SOUTH AMERICA AND AUSTRALIA

PS PS  got curious, and looked on Leading edge, and they were actually cheaper.  

My NR hubs do use drive lugs.  They are not threaded, but rather have a 5/16"/8mm hole through them.  I think the bolts where the deformation shows were not tightening up correctly or enough.  Even though the torque wrench said they were tight enough.  Might be that the galvanizing (if there is any) was being squeezed off the bolt threads and galling and binding up.   

PS   When I submitted my first post on this topic, I put the pictures in the order I wanted them to be in, and wrote my description accordingly.  Just looked now and they are not in the correct order.   Picture one and three are the 80 HP with about 175 hrs run time, pictures to and four are the 100 HP with about 15 minutes run time.

The bolts have an 8.8 marking on the heads.  JImChuk

I'll take a look for any head markings on the NR bolts.  I did replace them with AN5-36 bolts, so shouldn't have any issue with bolts going forward.  I'll have to change the clamp bolts out as well.  JImChuk

Hi all,  I have about 175 hrs on my NR two blade prop on my Kitfox 4 with 80 HP 912.  I've adjusted the prop a number of times between winter and summer, but never actually took the bolts out.  The other day I put a balance master on it, and got new AN5 bolts for the install.  Here is what I found.  I've always torqued the bolts to correct torque, but a few times it did seem like a couple of them acted weird.  Like not turning as much as I expected at the next torque setting.  I would say that apparently, they weren't tightening up to correct torque, at least some of them.  I'm back to working on my new built Kitfox 4 now, and I took the NR two blade prop off of it, so I could work on the engine and cowl install better.  I had ran this engine/prop about 15 or 20 minutes last summer, before I got side tracked.  Both times I used the bolts that NR supplied with the props.  Last prop I know of that came from them didn't come with bolts.  Maybe I'm not the only one who had an issue.  I like the prop, gives good performance, but if you are running their bolts, you may want to have a look.  First and third pictures are the 80 HP, the number two and four are from the 100 HP 912 with 15 or 20 minutes run time.  JImChuk

Recently I saw someone had made dolly wheels with two wheels and it looked like a good idea to me.  My single wheel ones sagged to one side and weren't the best.  Made a set of the duel wheel ones and finished them today.  Much better.  Pull the one 1/4" bolt and they come off.  They are a bit wider than needed for these skis, but I may make another set of skis, and they will be a bit wider.  JImChuk   

PS  not sure how this ended up in the close calls and dumb stunts the first time.  Moved it now and will try to delete the other post.  

Posted in wrong place

I've flown on wheels with 4 or 5" of snow.  Heavy wet snow would be worse than light fluffy stuff of course.  Skinny tires will cut through the snow better than wide ones.  Try for three point full stall landings as well.  Don't wheel land it.

I built those skis myself.  I have a sketch somewhere that I was making and never completely finished.  Some one else was asking about it the other day, and I couldn't find it.  Here is a post I started a few years ago.  JImChuk

Making a new set of skis - Forum How-to's - AvidFoxFlyers Forums

The heavy hauler wing has two ribs between the ribs with the long tailed ribs that the flaperon hinges on.  The STOL wing has only one rib between the long tailed ribs.  

The Bing floats shouldn't weigh over 7 grams for the pair.  If they are to heavy, your fuel level will rise in the float bowl.  

I was helping a friend of mine order an NR prop, and I had a hard time getting a response from him, so ended up ordering it from Meglin Propellers and fans for everyone - Home (mozello.com)  He has it on a Kitfox 4 with 912 ULS.   They are the same props as NR sells.  He just got a few flights with it, and now is snowed in so he hasn't really had a chance to test it much.  I'm running a 2 blade NR on my Kitfox 4 with 80 HP 912, and I like it.  Have one on the new Kitfox 4 build as well, but it's not flying yet.  JImChuk

Guess I would check the floats and fuel level in the float bowl,  and also look at all the ignition wires incase one of them has a crack of something and the bump/vibration seperates things for a second.  Just a bit of a guess on both accounts though.  

Does your C model have the MK IV upgrades I  mentioned earlier              the added gussets, added tubing behind the sear for door hold opening shocks, and the door latches that are about 1/3 of the way back on the bottom of the door,              Could also add baggage compartment, newer style cowl and rounded rudder.  

Finally got around to measuring my MK  IV wing carry throughs.  They are 7/8" diameter.  Some one was asking me about changing out the smaller ones on a B model.  I wondered if it would be easier to put a smaller tube inside the existing one.  May have to ream out some weld bubbles where the other tubes weld into the carry through, but wouldn't think that would be that hard with a long drill bit.  I would drill out the wing pin tubes with drill bits one size bigger than the last till there was nearly nothing left of it.  Get the last of it with a dremmel maybe.  Worse case, if you wreck it, you can then add a larger tube instead.  Any thoughts or comments why this is not an option?  JImChuk

Hi all,  looking for a prop spacer, perhaps a 1" one would work as well.  PM me.  Thanks,  JimChuk

You will be glad that you took the time to go for a visit when you do.  You know the story about all work and no play.  

I don't think so.  Measure yours, and I'll then measure the MK IV fuselage I have.  And while you are at it, measure the top and bottom tubes in the seat truss.  I know the MK IV used thicker tubes than earlier models, but not sure if the C did as well.

Well we have had a very unusual winter up here in northern Mn, very mild, and not much snow.  We finally got enough for me to put the skis on the Kitfox 4 and I got to fly today.  It was around 10 above F, so climb performance was really good.  The airport said DA was -1400.  Flew up around the lakes north of me and landed on one where some friends were ice fishing.  It was my first ski landing this year, in about 7" of soft snow, and was like landing on feathers.  Sweet.   Had to dive bomb a deer that was crossing my strip when I came in to land, wonder if he is still running....  he sure put it in high gear when I went right over him doing 100 mph plus and full throttle.  Only negative side of the flight was I thought I had my gopro running, but all I got was 4 pictures when I thought I was starting videos.  Never happens like that when there was nothing exciting on the video.  Anyway, a good day.  Don't put those planes away in the winter, it's the best time to fly.  JImChuk

According to Steve Winder the MK IV serial numbers start at about 1000.  If you don't have the added gussets, added tubing behind the sear for door hold opening shocks, and the door latches that are about 1/3 of the way back on the bottom of the door, It's not a MK IV  model.  I think also, the earlier models have the front of the vertical stabilizer off set to the side, and the MK IV model is centered.    There was a lot of competition between Kitfox and Avid back then, and being as how the Kitfox 4 had come out about that time, maybe that's why the last Avid got the MK IV designation.  Interesting to note, the serial numbers I've seen for MK IVs usually end in a D.  For instance,   1111D   You don't see the letter added in earlier model serial numbers that I'm aware of.  JImChuk

'