Ironman Al

The reason I asked about this Ford motor is that Ive acquired a Amphib.Sea plane with no motor , it had a Lycoming 0-360. Ive seen others like it useing this Ford V6 and wondered if they were very good.Thanks for the great info& feed back! Looks like if you can afford it, better to go with aircraft specific motors!

Does anyone now anything about the alumimum head Ford V6 with a Northwest Aero PRSU? Ive noticed these types listed with imcompleted kits for sale, any good? How would it stack up against the Soob motors? Weight?

Its an Adventurer 2+2, the lighter version of the 333, no fuel in wings, the saftey up grades have already been made, although Ill double check that when I find a manual on it.It was a flying plane already.Im getting it for a swap with work on a paint job, so I wont have anything initially invested. Ill post a picture of the type of plane!

Ive found the problem with these types of planes is its hard to find a happy medium between being able to take off from water and then speed for cruise,. Thats why I thought a In Flight adjustable would be good!

I dont think that the power to weight is ever going to be very good! Im an avid motorcyclist, AKA, Biker guy, When we try to go beyond the design limits of Harley cases as they increase every 5 years,  we can get bigger horse power but they dont last long. The twin cam ballanced Harly motor now is 114 or 120 ci. Cubic Inches not CC, they can put out about 90-100 hrs.torck at the wheel. Some a little more depending on transmision and gearing.You find that on race bikes, 6 races and their rebuilding them. Eventualy the Harley will reach the mark of 100 true horse, will it be to heavy by then? Time will tell, .The new inovative turbo yamaha 1000cc snow machine engines show promice !

Ive come to acquire a Amfib seaplane, its stock heavy and requires at least an 200 horse engine, I would preferr a aircooled engine, pusher motor cofig. Any thoughts on this ? Is an Ivo ifa prop best for this, its not light sport. Power to weight on any auto conv.any good?

Yes, thats the one I thoight would work to.

Yes , Gems sensors have either vert. or Hoiz. sensors, the float type, but electronic types too, that sense the presence or lack of fluid, no moveing parts. Not sure on the cost of those.

I did some checking to, and someone mentioned that kitfox perhaps used "Gems sensors" I looked and they have all kinds, they have a side mounted float switch type that screws in the plug hole, it will only be used to make a ground to a light, so little chance of a spark! I dont like power in fuel tanks either. It looks like the one at the top of Dholly s tank. Thanks for the answers! They come in different sizes of plug hole also, cost is 38.00 to 50.00, pretty inexpensive for the extra peice of mind, and the light is on the dash. That wasent the picture I was trying to post.

LS-7.pdf float sensor

Ed! Yes they have aluminum Clevland wheels 6 and 8" maybe 10" to. I know the make a big wheel tail wheel.

Ive read other conversations about the header tanks and fuel lines, venting, ect...I didnt want to interrupt those conversations with another question.So the new thread. Has anyone made, found or know of a low fuel intecator set up that would fit in the Kitfox later models stock, behind the seat, header tank made of plastic? Go thru the plug hole on the side? 

Ending of this story is that I bought a new outer rim from Alaska bush wheels, exact replica of the Clevland, only aluminum not magnesium, at a lot less price, and its powder coated. 179.00 vrs.575.00,

Thanks everyone! Sounds like a fine line of air temps going in to the carbs, cool is good but to much is potential iceing!

If you didnt see, the near finished project!

Hello Ken, I live up in Bigfork Mt. You or your brother ever get up here give me a call. Im in the 102 EAA chapter. Interesting about the RX1 thats Yamaha right! Ive read about them and it looks promising! Good Luck!

Howdy All! Just a question about carb heat units. I have a 912 With bing carbs, I dont plan on installing carb heaters, because from what Ive read here and other places, it dosent sound like the 912 , Bing Carb set up with cowling in place is a real concern. I was just wondering way on other type motor ect, useing coolant fluid to heat carbs, would there be a loss of RPM? How would that robb power from the motor? I could see a amp drop maybe if a pump were involved! Why wouldnt someone just use the simple and light weight electric warmers they have now? Seems alot easier set up!

Thanks Ed & TJay, I didnt know where to buy them. I did look at the Kitfox cat. But none where listed.  Ive tryed useing cork to make them, but they broke when I tried to pull them over the blade on the cap. I wasn't sure what material to use. The last thing I wanted was a leak on my new paint. Thanks again! Happy Thanks giving!!! 

If anyone has an extra set of the metal kitfox fuel cap seals, Im in need of a set. Thats the blade style metal caps! Thanks! 

Thanks Ed! Ill look for that! Ill also check the builders manual on the wing. 

Does anyone know a good way to route the tubes for a Reserve Lift indicator gauge thru the left wing on a Kitfox V starting at the peto tube inspection patch? Or another good location for the prusure tubes?

Thanks for all your good advise! You all gave me a dirrection tp look at. It turns out after some time spent following wires and studying the wire diagrams from the build manual, checking conections on the switches, it was a bad wire conection, still in the conection plug on a mag modual, the brown wire, so that mag couldnt be shut down!!! I learn somthing every day, its rumning like a Swiss watch now after synchronizeing carbs.Thanks again!!

Well, havent dove into the wire checking yet, bad ground seams to be the issue. The mags ran fine on either one, little noticable difference in rpm. Could be something minor, I will check the wires for defects on conections, thanks! Not sure about the ingnition switches yet. Ill check them as well. 

We started and ran my 912ul with no problems, after a couple minutes we went to shut it down at idle, 2500 rpm, carbs still need adjustment,  anyway after shuting off ingnition switch, and master switch, we shut of mags, the engine wouldnt shut off and ran ruff, after closing fuel valve it finaly stopped. Anyone ever have this happen, advise, sugjestions? Thanks!

I painted this plane with Randolf Ranthane flexable polyurathane, Tampa green metalic with about 2 pints of toner added. This was painted over the original Polytone paint after serface prep. Polyton is compatable with only Ranthan, Airothane, or more Polytone. The flames were made with a metalic gold base coat then covered with tinted and flex aditive clearcoat, wich was polyurathane as well. Ive painted several other fabric planes with Randolf and am very impressed with its ability to stay flexable and adhere to metal and fiberglass, aluminum parts. Ive had this paint left over in a cup and it dryed to a hockey puck, just like a supper ball, and stayed like that years later.

Thats all paint exept the numbers, just incase I sell her some day!