AvidJack

Thanks for the response!  The kit had a 912 motor mount, but nothing else for the FWF, and I'm trying to find all the bits I'll need for the install.  Have procured a 912uls (was looking for an 80hp, but..) and want to avoid ending up causing myself more problems.  I tend to leave bloody footprints often enough as is.  I'm not picky about the type of cowling, but have the two rings for a round cowl. It struck me that if there is a difference in the mounts, it would be best to find out beforehand!  I'll take a picture next year (tomorrow) of the mount, and measure the oil tanks (have 2).  I've been digging through manuals and forums, even tried the wayback machine, but thus far I'm not sure..
Thanks again,
-Jack

A bit of work???!!
 
However, it appears to be on of the last cats, with the forward-folding gear, and it also looks to have a powered (electric? hydraulic?) gear system.  Wing spars and flaperons looks to be ok from what I can tell, but I'm not on facebook, so really couldn't see detail.  But, it kinda looks like the wings are droop-tip, so, not sure.
If someone (on facebook) can magnifyl the docs, they might be able to get more information on model/type/serial#?

Lets see if this article adds any interest.  Still rummaging about my computer.
 
-Jack
1995_oct_dec_wings.pdf

You can see what the blanks from avid/kitfox looked like... figure a three, three and a half width from the front of the strut to the rear.  The interior of the struts near the fuselage I did in two pieces, routed the edges that met the struts, and clamped as shown, after prepping the struts and throwing in a bit of "thickening" flock to the west systems.  The strut fairings are structural, so the light weight PVC would NOT work. I prepped the struts in the same manner, clamped on the unsanded blanks with the same west systems mix, and *then* sanded them fair.  All of the non-structural stuff I've done, I've done the same, but used foam instead of wood, and did NOT epoxy to the tubes.    I hadn't flown in a while, working on the other project, but had done one side of the float supports with the foam streamlines.  Next time I flew, I was thrown by the amount of rudder I had to hold, and was figuring a rudder tab to correct, when it finally hit me... and I did the other side the same way. A little pressure on a long lever arm do make a lot of difference!  

I need to get online more often.  If you have a tablesaw,  and belt sander, it's not that hard to turn out a set for the struts.THe ones that came with the kit were simple wedges, with a "v" cut into it.  can't believe I found pics..  I did mine with a router bit sourced on ebay.  Glue them up, sand them down, fill and finish, and I used the heat-shrink covering used on model airplanes instead of paint.  Worked so well, that I made similar fairings for everything else, using foam insulation sheets.  On those, I didn't glue them in place after sanding, but simply wrapped them  in place with the same heat-shrink covering (name escapes me at the moment.  Sanding the shape in foam takes all of 2-3 minutes, and it's ready to cover.  Just be GENTLE with the hot-air source... foam melts, too.  I bought a decent heat gun after first attempts.  Harbor freight gun is now used for defrosting freezers.
 
-Jack
Austin, TX

This is a REALLY early model.  Aluminum connecting rods...no parts available from Jabiru.  Made around 55 HP, advertising notwhithstanding (see CASA documentation for verification).  Which helped it run cooler..  For a list of mods that has been greatly truncated, you can read here:  https://jabiru.net.au/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/Summary-of-significant-engine-changes-May-09.pdf 
 
Note that the crankshaft, camshaft, connecting rods, and *even the engine block* are to be replaced on overhaul, which for that engine is 500 hours.   On the bright side, it has the second variant of heads.. 

I messaged you that I would loan you the F7a s to copy, and sent them your way.  The tracking information from USPS tells me that they were delivered on April 22nd, but I hadn't heard from you about their arrival.  I assume that you did receive them?
April 22, 2020, 11:45 am
Delivered, In/At Mailbox
BRYAN, OH 43506 
Your item was delivered in or at the mailbox at 11:45 am on April 22, 2020 in BRYAN, OH 43506.
Thanks,
-Jack
Austin, TX

This came up back in 2013- I sent mine to Randy Nolson, he'd offered to make copies at the time.  Steve Haggerty also copied them.  They're pretty simple.. and I still have them.  I found they were almost necessary for the MK IV/Bandit, but didn't help that much in the catalina.  If anyone wants to step up as a new supplier..?
 
-Jack
Austin, TX

Your bandit has the f7a mods, and is/was set, with flaperons fully down, to have a negative reflex, which gives it a bit more speed in cruise but makes the plane handle, as I put it, "like balancing on a ball".  Add a bit of flaperon, and you should notice a marked difference in handling while maneuvering.  Early avids/foxes didn't have a trim- they adjusted flight control feedback through modification of the flaperon settings.. Messing with the flaperon adjustments is not something I'd recommend, The 2-3 degree negative setting is mentioned in the builder's manual as an option.
I'd responded to your earlier thread on CHT settings for your Jabiru, but I don't think you ever went back to that thread.. you might want to look at my response :-)
 
Jack
Austin, TX

We need to keep this thread alive!  Right now, you have to PM to ask for the email address for paypal, or the postal address for checks..  I couldn't send much, but did send a bit.
If you donate, post to keep this thread up top!  He's not asking, so it's up to us.
 
Heck- just cut and paste the above...!
Jack
Austin, TX.
(I asked santa for a paypal  donation button on the main page)

Ok, this is going to sound really bizarre, but, unless something has changed, you DO have a CHT gauge.  There should be a rotary switch over on the right side, labeled 1-4, to select the cylinder.  The CHT /tach gauge should be a combination gauge under the VSI..  Value of CHT is to insure you don't overheat the heads, and you can MANUALLY change the mixture on the bing for major altitude differences.  EGT (left and right) is likewise there to let you know that the settings are OK on the Carb mixture.  The Jab can have uneven mixture supplied to the different cylinders- there is info online that will tell you which way to twist the carb to even out the delivery, by getting the CHTs close across all cylinders....   Your dash *should* look a LOT like the attached picture...  :-)  But, things change...
 
Jack
Austin, TX

70- should be doable.  It takes more power to push beyond that.  I'd actually passed the question at one time to Dean Wilson- "Why 90 VNE?", and the response came back-- 'Didn't think anyone would want to go faster than that..'. I can't go full throttle in level flight- my 1/2 throttle cruise is around 80 mph.  The plane starts to feel a little squirrelly faster than that, so... I don't go there.  While the challenger is an aft pusher, the catalina thrust line is much higher, so be gentle with the throttle until you get a feel for it.  The other problem with the catalina, is with those big wings- high speed taxi can quickly become low speed flight, pull back on the throttle, and you stall almost immediately.  I have a problem in Texas in summer- coming in for a landing, when I cross the threshold on a big asphalt runway, I generally balloon up 100 feet or so, just from the lift..  and flying in turbulence with that light a wing load is NOT fun.  Crosswinds suck, as well- you're going to have to learn to crab and kick- those floats out there don't make one-wheelers very practical.  And a crosswind gust just as you land can get real exciting.  Not to mention the lack of suspension- I run my tires at 16 lbs.
I don't hit the lakes on weekends- Boat wakes aren't the problem, but the boats and jetskis are.  Seems they all want to come over and take a look, which kinda clashes with the FAA regs..  You won't have the normal boating problems- any wind, and you weathervane into it, so no worry about rolls.  Anything from the side, still no roll, as your wings are supported.  Roller over the bow- haven't seen it yet, but I'm not going to try and find the experience.  Rough water can be more of a challenge.  Been there, decided to fly closer in to the lee next time. I try and keep spray out of the prop. I do carry a sea anchor- little weight, haven't had to use it yet, but there's a LOT of sail on the catalina, should the engine not start.
Biggest problem I had in transitioning from a taildragger (land) was my trying to land as the waves said I should, rather than as the wind said I should.  I did my transition down in key west- seeing the sharks in the water gave you incentive for a better landing.. but the sponge looked like rocks to me. 
-Jack
Austin, TX

When I was building mine, I was worried about the canopy brace (which you don't have to, it seems- you have gull wings), and moved my rudder pedals forward, which dropped my knees, and made more room for the stick.  I'm 6', and 195, and I fit ok, but the passenger side seems to have less room.. and you can darn well forget the back.  I fit the floor in the back, and then took it back out- easier to check for water, and after squeezing myself into the back, once, knew that I would NEVER have anyone back there, so no need for a floor. 
Water is an issue- the step is pretty shallow, and  any water in the cabin area can QUICKLY migrate aft into the tail at a not-so-steep climbout, and do all sorts of nasty things to your weight and balance.  I have an automatic/manual bilge pump, and an indicator light that tells me when it's operative.  On approach to water landings- it's on automatic, and stays there until takeoff, when it goes to manual (after insuring that it's not currently running- did I mention that I have the floor out in back so I can check for water?).  I do a shallow climb with the pump ON, and then switch to auto, checking for water ( light still on) before I try and increase my climb angle (light off).
Why so picky? 
https://www.aopa.org/training-and-safety/air-safety-institute/accident-analysis/featured-accidents/amphib-carwheels-on-takeoff
I knew Jim, and had land-taxied in his catalina with him.  His had modified landing gear, which didn't leave him much clearance between the step and the ground- any little bump, and he'd drag, especially with both of us in the plane- something to check for.  He was also fighting water incursions- and from all accounts, tried to yank it off the water, and the water jumped the step..  Recommendation?  Do a few high-speed taxis on the water, stop, and check for leaks (you do NOT need that rear floor...).  If it seems dry, still be cautious.  Before heading out to a lake for landing, I actually mowed a path and rigged a ramp into a stock tanks (acre-sized pond), and drove around in that a bit, and found a significant leak around one axle.  I made a packing bearing for the inside axles, and filled the outside gap (?)  with 3m 5200 sealant.  I still get a bit of a weep, but I can live with it.. especially with that light...
The only concern I had when looking at the pics of the plane on ebay were about the "f1" mods to the engine shroud. While having that one big radiator out on one side of the plane is draggy, if you look at the standard 582 installation, the engine shroud is pretty aerodynamic, which gives you a smoother flow into the propeller, allowing it more of a bite(power) and less noise.  If you find that you don't seem to have much power, and have a really coarse setting on your prop, that's where I'd look first.  Look at the open area behind the firewall on your plane, and mine.  I've even streamlined the push-rods for the flaperons since, just to clean up the air into the prop, and smoothed out some of the extraneous stuff on the forward cowling designed for other engines.
Have fun!  But.. don't expect to be in a hurry to get there- it's a pretty draggy airplane.   
Jack- Austin, TX

8 hours to go, and only a single bidder?
Here's another option- an amphibian that hasn't been completed-  the facebook flying machine marketplace lists:
https://tinyurl.com/yy6hoja4
Text is:
Avid Amphibious aircraft kit
$5,50002747Unfinished kit, No engine, prop , interior or instruments, Lots of work completed. Calls Only for details five 0 eight four nine 6 five 3 nine 4
 
 

Actually, the guy (Jim) that went in on Inks Lake had a different problem- his Catalina had been altered, and had storage areas hollowed out into the *inboard* sponsons (which cover the wheels) accessible from the cockpit.  I thought it was a neat idea when I saw it - a good place to stick charts and whatever, but he had a bit of separation between the hull and the sponson (caused by learning to land a tailwheel aircraft in a plane without suspension), and water started jetting in.through those openings.  To my knowledge, he did not have a seaplane rating. Long story short, if you even *think* you have a lot of water in the fuselage, do NOT try and yank it off the water.  I have an automatic bilge pump in my cat that has a switch for automatic, and manual.  If the pump is running in either mode, I have an indicator light that comes on. Checklist on landing- bilge pump on automatic.  Checklist on takeoff, pump on manual, and a gentle climb off the water for the first 20 seconds, switch to auto, check for operation light, and only then...  Jim took off heavy, had water, pulled back hard, and the water ran to the tail, shifting CG, and stalling him. Knew Jim, knew his plane, and have since landed on Inks Lake, thinking of him.
If you watched my youtube video, you'll note a caption in there after my first landing "checking for water". I do not have a floorboard in the rear of my cat (only a midget/child could sit back there- I tried once), so I can readily check for water.  There is *nothing* in the cat design to stop a sudden rush of water(weight) to the tail, other than a small step.
$,02
Jack